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Suggestions for small 'printed' plastic parts.

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Old 10-04-2012, 06:09 PM
  #16  
bronto
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PorKen, design your cup holder with this
Old 10-04-2012, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Frye
Ken,

Not sure about the auto shifter handle. The print quality on these is definitely NOT something you would want on display. The highest resolution between layers still makes it easy to distingqish between them.

They are sandable and paintable (and you can drill, tap and cut them) but I'm not sure it would be something good enough for an interior part.
Just need the core man..then Rob Budd leathers them up.

Just..there are no donors under what..$400-500 new?
Old 10-04-2012, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Speedtoys
Just need the core man..then Rob Budd leathers them up.

Just..there are no donors under what..$400-500 new?
Ah, gotcha. Well in that case...

There is a program called 123D that will make 3D images for you if you upload a bunch of pictures of an item. Just need about 10 minutes in someone's car.
Old 10-09-2012, 02:37 PM
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Relay bases/adapter plugs/passthroughs w/holes for terminal insertion
- jumpers
- diagnostics
- switched functions

- 85-86 test port plug (Blink'r) = round 911 relay*


*I can make a drawing for this
Old 10-09-2012, 03:01 PM
  #20  
Koenig-Specials 928
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Clear plastic cover for the fog/driving lights incl the end pieces as 1 complete piece. Mine got broken even with a protective 3M shield. Expensive as hell so plastic should be cheaper.
Old 10-14-2012, 07:09 AM
  #21  
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Update: that gear is still giving me fits. The smaller toothed part on top just doesn't seem to want to print correctly for me. I'm still wrestling with it. I was looking inside the door and the power door lock motor appears to be the same part as the rear hatch gear motor so the gears should be exactly the same. It's weir, I think the only difference between these three motors is the bracket they are mounted to. I plan to look inside to see if the contact patch (or rather non-contact patch) is the same. On the surface it looks like the only difference would be where the ball piece at the end is oriented when it's 'parked' and there may be one position for left motor, one for right and one for rear hatch. If so, then the internals should be the same.

If so, I may try a different route where you can actually take lots of photos of the thing you want to print and then upload them to 123Dcatch, and it downloads a 3d image of that item. I'd rather design it myself, but if this works it might be faster.


Originally Posted by PorKen
Relay bases/adapter plugs/passthroughs w/holes for terminal insertion
- jumpers
- diagnostics
- switched functions

- 85-86 test port plug (Blink'r) = round 911 relay*


*I can make a drawing for this
Ken, if you could make a drawing of what you're thinking of with some measurements I'd love to take a stab at it.
Originally Posted by hessank
Clear plastic cover for the fog/driving lights incl the end pieces as 1 complete piece. Mine got broken even with a protective 3M shield. Expensive as hell so plastic should be cheaper.
I'm afraid clear isn't really an option right now for this technology. You can do translucent, but not clear. The layering required in the printing as well as multiple re-melting steps means that it always comes out hazy and very blurry with lots of imperfections. Sorry.


Update (for anyone interested)
928Myles sent me some pics and some drawings of a piece he needs. It's a small plastic part at the end of a rod for the seat that needs to be installed with a clip to keep it in place. This is it:




... and here's my solution...


It's accurate to within .5mm in some places and .01mm in others. This isn't very high precision, but this is a perfect application where it really doesn't need anything more accurate.

I'm going to send him a couple to test fit and let me know if it will work.
Old 10-14-2012, 12:46 PM
  #22  
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Very cool.. your printer has me thinking very hard about a 4-axis dual-purpose printer/mill (there's a few open source designs out there - e.g. easymaker, 2beigh3 etc.). But its on the backburner until my 928 project list is more under control lol.
Old 10-14-2012, 12:52 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Mike Frye
Update (for anyone interested)
928Myles sent me some pics and some drawings of a piece he needs. It's a small plastic part at the end of a rod for the seat that needs to be installed with a clip to keep it in place.
Is this the piece that can cause a seat to slide slightly forward when worn or is it just a radial holder.
Old 10-14-2012, 02:53 PM
  #24  
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Aryan,
it is just a radial holder. The end of the fore / aft adjusting rods sits and turns in it.

I can't say I have noticed a difference in seat operation on the one missing one of these but I would think that over the long term it would mean less wear on other parts.

I wouldn't be suprised if there are others missing this part and have just never noticed. You really need to have the seat out to see it.

Myles
Old 11-02-2012, 06:00 PM
  #25  
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Update on seat part.

Mike kindly made a couple of seat parts for me. Other than needing to drill out the hole to 8mm (my mistake - told him it was 7mm) it fits well. (It is the purple one). A bit beefier than stock.
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:11 PM
  #26  
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dcrasta,
I have a headlight ball socket I could measuer if you wish. There is plenty of room under there so it could be beefed up a bit and with a larger collar.

Let me know and I could send someone a dimensioned drawing.

Myles
Old 11-02-2012, 06:36 PM
  #27  
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Default Gas cap pawl

How about the THING inside the gas cap that always breaks?
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Old 11-03-2012, 11:41 PM
  #28  
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I need a shim for the 4×6 speakers in the door panels of my 79. The ones supplied are perfect except they need to be twice as thick.
Old 11-03-2012, 11:43 PM
  #29  
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:51 AM
  #30  
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Those all look like cool stuff. If someone can send me dimensions or maybe just trace them on a piece of paper and scan it I can give it a shot.

Right now we're still digging out and I don't have any power, but hopefully in the near future things will get back to normal (more like a new normal) and I can take a stab at it.

Myles, I'm glad yours worked out. I can fix the design and make the ID 8mm and print them in white if you want. I feel bad sending you parts for your car printed in purple, but it was the only color I had that was working consistently at the time.

Let me know.


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