Official #30 Revival / Rescue Thread
#196
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Harvey, WTf? I missed the salsaritas announcement?... Point me at the details.... I have to put down seed and lime and straw, but I am free in the evening...geez....
10-4 on the driving bit...it is constantly changing....I know I'm not out of fuel, but my gauge is broken....
10-4 on the driving bit...it is constantly changing....I know I'm not out of fuel, but my gauge is broken....
#198
Burning Brakes
Ron here is the title of the thread EVENT: ‘Park, BS & Eat’ - Saturday, April 13th - Charlotte, NC
11am - 1pm park road and Quail Hollows
11am - 1pm park road and Quail Hollows
#199
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Just a brief update...spent the last 2 weekends shoveling gravel for a driveway extension, and prepping, lime-ing, fertilizing, seeding, and covering my mud yard...perhaps I'll see grass soon....
Played a bit with #30 last night....I turned the distributor just a hair counter clockwise, and she perked right up....running much, much better, and little to no "popping" underneath, and wicked smooth throttle response. After letting her idle for about 30 mins, began playing with the fuel mixture, leaning her out a bit....and lowered the idle a tad...much better....can't wait to play some more later in the week.
Played a bit with #30 last night....I turned the distributor just a hair counter clockwise, and she perked right up....running much, much better, and little to no "popping" underneath, and wicked smooth throttle response. After letting her idle for about 30 mins, began playing with the fuel mixture, leaning her out a bit....and lowered the idle a tad...much better....can't wait to play some more later in the week.
#202
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Been piddling around a bit...drained the gearbox, very gooey, and stinky....no metal shavings tho'.
Looks like there has been some moisture in the box....not straight water, more like condensation, from the years of sitting.
Put fresh fluid in her and ran it through the gears (she is still sitting on her lift bars). Seemed to shift and accelerate well, except for 3rd gear...it was hard to get into 3rd, once in, the shifter was "pulsing", like it wanted to pop out...all the other gears felt fine.
Any thoughts on that?.
Looks like there has been some moisture in the box....not straight water, more like condensation, from the years of sitting.
Put fresh fluid in her and ran it through the gears (she is still sitting on her lift bars). Seemed to shift and accelerate well, except for 3rd gear...it was hard to get into 3rd, once in, the shifter was "pulsing", like it wanted to pop out...all the other gears felt fine.
Any thoughts on that?.
#203
Team Owner
Airtek I would be concerned about the shavings in the fill hole what is all of that stuff,
I would suggest to remove the rear cover on the trans to inspect your gearset
I would suggest to remove the rear cover on the trans to inspect your gearset
#204
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I will open it, eventually, but it's not shavings, for some reason my flash is reflecting like crazy...it was almost completely dark in the shop when I took that. From looking at the photo again..air bubbles....it was flowing when I snapped the pic...
#205
Nordschleife Master
(seriously - original Dexron was derived from sperm-whale oil, per a post by Mike S a while ago, and was an acceptable choice for the early transmission per the WSM).
Airtek - now that you know the engine runs, why not just disassemble with a million photos, and get the chassis painted? Your rusty roof needs help!
#206
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Something of that nature is in my plans....since I had my employment setback recently, my income level is not where it was, so I just want to tinker with it a bit until I get stabilized, I want my mind right when I go into it....my plan was in this order:
1. Go through testing mechanicals
2. Get her to run
3. Drive her a little bit, shake her down...
4. Remove motor, drive train, refurb as needed
5. Strip interior
6. Learn a little about bodywork, by prepping as much as I can on my own.
7. Get her painted
8. Reassemble
I won't do any major work until I get a lift....might take me a year or two for that, but ya never know......
She will be ok for now...she is in the dry, and sometime this summer, her home will also be climate controlled....
1. Go through testing mechanicals
2. Get her to run
3. Drive her a little bit, shake her down...
4. Remove motor, drive train, refurb as needed
5. Strip interior
6. Learn a little about bodywork, by prepping as much as I can on my own.
7. Get her painted
8. Reassemble
I won't do any major work until I get a lift....might take me a year or two for that, but ya never know......
She will be ok for now...she is in the dry, and sometime this summer, her home will also be climate controlled....
#207
Nordschleife Master
What you need to do to that gearbox is as follows, with it on the lift bars, fill it with some good quality ATF.
Remove the rear tires, and thread on at least 2 M14x1.5 NUTS to hold the rotor in place.
Start the car, and then put it into 1st gear, let it idle for a little while, then bring the RPM to 2k RPM and hold for 5-10 minutes, do this for each gear.
Once you complete the 5-10 min of running at 2k RPM in 5th, turn off the car and drain the oil immediately. The oil should still be hot/warm and any burn oil/build up of crap on the internals of the box will come out. If it comes out really black, you might consider a second time.
Remove the rear tires, and thread on at least 2 M14x1.5 NUTS to hold the rotor in place.
Start the car, and then put it into 1st gear, let it idle for a little while, then bring the RPM to 2k RPM and hold for 5-10 minutes, do this for each gear.
Once you complete the 5-10 min of running at 2k RPM in 5th, turn off the car and drain the oil immediately. The oil should still be hot/warm and any burn oil/build up of crap on the internals of the box will come out. If it comes out really black, you might consider a second time.
#208
Team Owner
Colin would it be better to raise the lower control arms so the driveshafts and CV boots wont be running at an extreme angle?
This could possibly damage them.. Thoughts?
This could possibly damage them.. Thoughts?
#209
Drifting
What you need to do to that gearbox is as follows, with it on the lift bars, fill it with some good quality ATF.
Remove the rear tires, and thread on at least 2 M14x1.5 NUTS to hold the rotor in place.
Start the car, and then put it into 1st gear, let it idle for a little while, then bring the RPM to 2k RPM and hold for 5-10 minutes, do this for each gear.
Once you complete the 5-10 min of running at 2k RPM in 5th, turn off the car and drain the oil immediately. The oil should still be hot/warm and any burn oil/build up of crap on the internals of the box will come out. If it comes out really black, you might consider a second time.
Remove the rear tires, and thread on at least 2 M14x1.5 NUTS to hold the rotor in place.
Start the car, and then put it into 1st gear, let it idle for a little while, then bring the RPM to 2k RPM and hold for 5-10 minutes, do this for each gear.
Once you complete the 5-10 min of running at 2k RPM in 5th, turn off the car and drain the oil immediately. The oil should still be hot/warm and any burn oil/build up of crap on the internals of the box will come out. If it comes out really black, you might consider a second time.
More good advice, you could support the car by the lower control arms Ron, sure the boots are toast anyway.
Last edited by The Fixer; 05-25-2013 at 11:07 AM.
#210
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Excellent advice!!!! Low cost and effective....I filled it with the good GM stuff, discussed on another thread. I will absolutely do that. The CV boots are shot. I have all new. That's on my list as well!