Lizard Shifter Installation Tips?
09-21-2012, 12:24 AM
#31
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Colin, Read up on the MC issues... Mine was replaced in 2009 by PO and although it has the same part # the internal piston is NOT the same - its LONGER and bottoms out before you get full travel. Hence, the clutch wont fully release causing dragging, chattering and all sorts of shifting issues. Sounds like my car!! I'm pulling the MC piston tomorrow to see if my suspicions are true. Apparently, a lot of guys have run into this issue and the fix is relatively simple - cut off 4.5 mm of the piston & 2 winds of the spring, reinstall while bleeding MC, bleed rest of system cause thats how I roll and were done. I'll report back with results!
I still havent had the pleasure of driving my car with a fully functional Lizard Shifter and am anxious to try it out!!!
I still havent had the pleasure of driving my car with a fully functional Lizard Shifter and am anxious to try it out!!!
09-21-2012, 12:44 AM
#32
Nordschleife Master
If the int plate is properly adjusted, and the hydraulics working, you dont need to remove that additional material.....
However that said, you dont have to remove the MC to be able to do this. Just pull the boot off the MC from inside the car, and then remove the C clip and the MC piston can be removed, and modified. This is also the preferred way to bleed the MC.....
However that said, you dont have to remove the MC to be able to do this. Just pull the boot off the MC from inside the car, and then remove the C clip and the MC piston can be removed, and modified. This is also the preferred way to bleed the MC.....
09-21-2012, 10:41 PM
#33
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Tonight I trimmed off approx 14mm of the new MC spring guide post and the bottom 2 winds of the spring. Reinstalled, bled the MC and took her out. MUCH better shifting with less crunch / notch and much easier down shifting - still not perfect, but manageable. Still chattered some at idle / in neutral again so I tightened up the clutch pedal rod - probably preloading the MC a bit 
but the chatter stopped. Clutch is very smooth from top to bottom with more throw.
Has a slight "chirp" coming from the throwout bearing area when depressing the clutch pedal. Any chance the throwout bearing is the culprit? It shows no signs of failure (no grease throwing, etc) with the exception of the chirp...
but the chatter stopped. Clutch is very smooth from top to bottom with more throw.Has a slight "chirp" coming from the throwout bearing area when depressing the clutch pedal. Any chance the throwout bearing is the culprit? It shows no signs of failure (no grease throwing, etc) with the exception of the chirp...
09-22-2012, 04:27 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
The installation instructions on 928srus show that 2 holes need to be drilled in the tunnel to fix the 1-piece bar. The youtube fil about the 2-stge SSK show that the bar is a 2-piece item that don't require drilling in the TT. What is the urrent model? The 1-piece or the 2-piece item?
Last edited by Ad0911; 09-22-2012 at 05:29 PM.
09-22-2012, 04:38 PM
#35
Nordschleife Master
Ad,
That shifter video you post was made by Jadz and is his own prototype. It has not and I doubt it will ever go into production.
I looked at doing a clamp style when making mine. The problem is that then the boots dont fit properly, and there is a risk of it sliding around if you drive and something comes slightly loose. Where as if anything backs off slightly in my design, the holes in the tunnel maintain its position and allow you to drive back to your tools to snug them up. And if the boots dont sit properly, and the motor or transmission mounts are not 100% then LOTS of additional heat will enter the cabin. This was not something I could allow, hence the two holes.
That shifter video you post was made by Jadz and is his own prototype. It has not and I doubt it will ever go into production.
I looked at doing a clamp style when making mine. The problem is that then the boots dont fit properly, and there is a risk of it sliding around if you drive and something comes slightly loose. Where as if anything backs off slightly in my design, the holes in the tunnel maintain its position and allow you to drive back to your tools to snug them up. And if the boots dont sit properly, and the motor or transmission mounts are not 100% then LOTS of additional heat will enter the cabin. This was not something I could allow, hence the two holes.
09-22-2012, 05:28 PM
#36
Rennlist Member
Ad,
That shifter video you post was made by Jadz and is his own prototype. It has not and I doubt it will ever go into production.
I looked at doing a clamp style when making mine. The problem is that then the boots dont fit properly, and there is a risk of it sliding around if you drive and something comes slightly loose. Where as if anything backs off slightly in my design, the holes in the tunnel maintain its position and allow you to drive back to your tools to snug them up. And if the boots dont sit properly, and the motor or transmission mounts are not 100% then LOTS of additional heat will enter the cabin. This was not something I could allow, hence the two holes.
That shifter video you post was made by Jadz and is his own prototype. It has not and I doubt it will ever go into production.
I looked at doing a clamp style when making mine. The problem is that then the boots dont fit properly, and there is a risk of it sliding around if you drive and something comes slightly loose. Where as if anything backs off slightly in my design, the holes in the tunnel maintain its position and allow you to drive back to your tools to snug them up. And if the boots dont sit properly, and the motor or transmission mounts are not 100% then LOTS of additional heat will enter the cabin. This was not something I could allow, hence the two holes.
09-22-2012, 08:31 PM
#37
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
To answer your question it's Colin's Lizard Shifter. The shifter really isnt the problem and I've about gotten it figured out as well. Shifting much better today after the MC adjustment. Still got some issues with the clutch, possibly the throwout bearing, but its 100% better today 
04-18-2013, 12:56 PM
#38
I know this thread is a little stale, but it’s the best hit when looking for Lizard Shifter tips and I wanted to post my experiences.
First, Hinchcliffe posted "Well made and easy to install". It is well made, but I won't say easy to install.
1. Maybe some center consoles don't need to be removed on some versions, but on mine, there was no way to drill the holes, and then eventually remove the front shift rod. while the console is in place. Plan on removing the center console. Console removal not technically hard, but lots of screws in annoying places, and wiring that needs disconnecting. On my list of least favorite 928 jobs.
2. The rear shift coupler.
a. Thanks to the Rennlist hints about heat, PB blaster and having the right tool, the dreaded set screw removal was no big deal. Not have a coupler boot on there was a bit dismaying and required quick service from Roger.
b. You should at least TRY to mark the original alignment on the front shaft with whiteout or nail polish. But it may not help, whole new geometry and tight tolerences.
c. Getting it off the shaft required a little knuckle busting leverage of a 19mm wrench and to taps from a hammer as it stuck at the end, but not big deal. As always, tight space and awkward angles are the enemy here.
d. Rebuilding it will require a press or a vise to remove and reinstall the pin, but pretty straightforward. Reinstalling it is more challenging. When you put the rubber boot on, it will act like a floppy spring trying to push the coupler off. The trick is to line it up as much as possible and have the set screw already started, then once the set screw is over it’s hole, screw it in and you are golden. Again, not too bad once you wrestle the boot into submission.
e. The most challenging part was the final part, getting everything aligned so that you can hit all six gear slots. I suspect that no matter how precise your nail polish mark is, the tolerances are so tight with the new system that you will need to adjust. There may be many ways to do this, but here is what worked for me:
i. In the cockpit, I bungie corded the shift lever to the hand brake lever so it was as far left as it would go, like you were in R or 1st (front to back is less critical, and is more of a comfort/hand position choice than pure functionality)
ii. Back at the Shift coupler, I made sure transmission was in neutral. This was surprisingly hard as it take some force to move it backwards and forwards, and it always wanted pop all the way up or back. You will know you are in neutral if you can twist it, and you need to twist it for the trick. Get a small adjustable Crescent wrench and fit it around the square part of the coupler shaft. This will allow you to twist the coupler to the left ( 1st/R) in the confined space of the tunnel. Now slide the shift rod back over the coupler and tighten. The rod will also already be in the far left position due to the bungie on the shift lever. It takes some awkward force to slide the lever back. A helper may make this easier, and could take the place of the bungie. What worked for me was my biggest screwdriver used as a lever against the lip of the shift rod , with the fulcrum being the roof of the tunnel. Left a little ding in the undercoating, but left my knuckles intact. It took a couple tries to get it just the way I wanted it, but that was the best solution I found.
iii. You can adjust front to back of the clamp on the shaft to get the **** in just the right position in your hand ( ) On mine, the clamp all the way at the back end of the splines put the **** right where it was most comfortable for me.
iv. To get the boot over it, just lube it with Wd-40 or similar and kind of roll it up like a sock. Then get the other end over the lip on the transmission. You can’t see it but you can get your hands up there pretty easy.
3. The Front Shift Rod:
a. The first part is the easiest. As stated, just twisting it to the left or right firmly was enough to pop it off the front ball joint. This won’t work if the front locknut is loose. You’ll need a “plan b” for that.
b. I’ve seen suggestions that you then push it forward and just zip tie it to the torque tube. I did not like this. I removed it. Either way, will need to remove you heat shielding and likely your x-pipe and/or cats to get to that end of the rod. To pull it out from the shifter end, you will need to remove the ball cup and locknut at the front end. To remove those, I used a combination of a 15mm flare wrench on the locknut ( so it would hang), with needle nose vise grips ( not too tight) on the threads to hold the flare snug and to keeps the head from also spinning. However there is NO way you will have room to turn from that end, so get back into the cockpit and turn the rod from the shifter end. Eventually you will hear the wrenches drop off under the car.
c. Then roll up your sleeves and grab a hammer and pry bar. To pull it out from the shifter end ( the only practical way I could see) just requires brute force. Hammer it, twist it and lever it out. This is another operation that would pose risk if the center console was still in place. Plug the foam hole with foam or spray foam.
4. The shifter itself:
a. This part is easy, and just like the directions say. Mark the holes. Drill the Holes. Both it together. Don’t loose the C-Clips. Confession: I probably put mine a little too close to the center, i.e. too far from the edge, but it does not seem to matter, except may have made adjustment a little harder at the shift coupling.
I wish I had more in progress pictures, but it was one of those jobs that did not lend itself to much picture taking. What I have for pictures will follow.
First, Hinchcliffe posted "Well made and easy to install". It is well made, but I won't say easy to install.
1. Maybe some center consoles don't need to be removed on some versions, but on mine, there was no way to drill the holes, and then eventually remove the front shift rod. while the console is in place. Plan on removing the center console. Console removal not technically hard, but lots of screws in annoying places, and wiring that needs disconnecting. On my list of least favorite 928 jobs.
2. The rear shift coupler.
a. Thanks to the Rennlist hints about heat, PB blaster and having the right tool, the dreaded set screw removal was no big deal. Not have a coupler boot on there was a bit dismaying and required quick service from Roger.
b. You should at least TRY to mark the original alignment on the front shaft with whiteout or nail polish. But it may not help, whole new geometry and tight tolerences.
c. Getting it off the shaft required a little knuckle busting leverage of a 19mm wrench and to taps from a hammer as it stuck at the end, but not big deal. As always, tight space and awkward angles are the enemy here.
d. Rebuilding it will require a press or a vise to remove and reinstall the pin, but pretty straightforward. Reinstalling it is more challenging. When you put the rubber boot on, it will act like a floppy spring trying to push the coupler off. The trick is to line it up as much as possible and have the set screw already started, then once the set screw is over it’s hole, screw it in and you are golden. Again, not too bad once you wrestle the boot into submission.
e. The most challenging part was the final part, getting everything aligned so that you can hit all six gear slots. I suspect that no matter how precise your nail polish mark is, the tolerances are so tight with the new system that you will need to adjust. There may be many ways to do this, but here is what worked for me:
i. In the cockpit, I bungie corded the shift lever to the hand brake lever so it was as far left as it would go, like you were in R or 1st (front to back is less critical, and is more of a comfort/hand position choice than pure functionality)
ii. Back at the Shift coupler, I made sure transmission was in neutral. This was surprisingly hard as it take some force to move it backwards and forwards, and it always wanted pop all the way up or back. You will know you are in neutral if you can twist it, and you need to twist it for the trick. Get a small adjustable Crescent wrench and fit it around the square part of the coupler shaft. This will allow you to twist the coupler to the left ( 1st/R) in the confined space of the tunnel. Now slide the shift rod back over the coupler and tighten. The rod will also already be in the far left position due to the bungie on the shift lever. It takes some awkward force to slide the lever back. A helper may make this easier, and could take the place of the bungie. What worked for me was my biggest screwdriver used as a lever against the lip of the shift rod , with the fulcrum being the roof of the tunnel. Left a little ding in the undercoating, but left my knuckles intact. It took a couple tries to get it just the way I wanted it, but that was the best solution I found.
iii. You can adjust front to back of the clamp on the shaft to get the **** in just the right position in your hand ( ) On mine, the clamp all the way at the back end of the splines put the **** right where it was most comfortable for me.
iv. To get the boot over it, just lube it with Wd-40 or similar and kind of roll it up like a sock. Then get the other end over the lip on the transmission. You can’t see it but you can get your hands up there pretty easy.
3. The Front Shift Rod:
a. The first part is the easiest. As stated, just twisting it to the left or right firmly was enough to pop it off the front ball joint. This won’t work if the front locknut is loose. You’ll need a “plan b” for that.
b. I’ve seen suggestions that you then push it forward and just zip tie it to the torque tube. I did not like this. I removed it. Either way, will need to remove you heat shielding and likely your x-pipe and/or cats to get to that end of the rod. To pull it out from the shifter end, you will need to remove the ball cup and locknut at the front end. To remove those, I used a combination of a 15mm flare wrench on the locknut ( so it would hang), with needle nose vise grips ( not too tight) on the threads to hold the flare snug and to keeps the head from also spinning. However there is NO way you will have room to turn from that end, so get back into the cockpit and turn the rod from the shifter end. Eventually you will hear the wrenches drop off under the car.
c. Then roll up your sleeves and grab a hammer and pry bar. To pull it out from the shifter end ( the only practical way I could see) just requires brute force. Hammer it, twist it and lever it out. This is another operation that would pose risk if the center console was still in place. Plug the foam hole with foam or spray foam.
4. The shifter itself:
a. This part is easy, and just like the directions say. Mark the holes. Drill the Holes. Both it together. Don’t loose the C-Clips. Confession: I probably put mine a little too close to the center, i.e. too far from the edge, but it does not seem to matter, except may have made adjustment a little harder at the shift coupling.
I wish I had more in progress pictures, but it was one of those jobs that did not lend itself to much picture taking. What I have for pictures will follow.
Last edited by KenRudd; 04-18-2013 at 02:52 PM.
04-18-2013, 02:44 PM
#41
My experience was pretty much the same on my 84.. There was absolutely no way to drill the holes without completely dismantling the console.
Initially, I thought I'd replace the coupler bushings, but the set screw was not going to cooperate and upon closer inspection the original bushings were in perfect condition with almost no play at all.
I spent about 2 1/2 hours trying to find the right setting to get all gears. That part would have been much easier with an access cover like the 911 has.
The front rod rattles once in a while so I'll have to get under there and tie-wrap it.
Hugo
Initially, I thought I'd replace the coupler bushings, but the set screw was not going to cooperate and upon closer inspection the original bushings were in perfect condition with almost no play at all.
I spent about 2 1/2 hours trying to find the right setting to get all gears. That part would have been much easier with an access cover like the 911 has.
The front rod rattles once in a while so I'll have to get under there and tie-wrap it.
Hugo
04-18-2013, 03:57 PM
#44
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Hi Colin;
Hope you are well? have you got a drawing showing the positions of the drilled holes, as i have no torque tube or gearbox in at the moment (as you well know
) and want to drill the holes before re assembly?
Regards
Geoff
Hope you are well? have you got a drawing showing the positions of the drilled holes, as i have no torque tube or gearbox in at the moment (as you well know
) and want to drill the holes before re assembly?Regards
Geoff
04-18-2013, 04:02 PM
#45
Rennlist Member
As my focus is on getting the car on the road first, the lizard shifter installation will not be part of that, but preparing the car to make installation after getting the car on the road a bit easier seems a good idea. I already changed the rear coupler bushings. Is there a downloadable manual that tells me exactly where to drill the holes?