rear ac leak
I am chasing down a leak in the rear ac with a sniffer. I assumed I would find it at one of the "o" ring connection. Instead it started screaming at the return, low pressure, line where it transitions from steel to the flexible fabric/rubber just below the expansion valve. Before I take it off I was curios if anyone else had this fail. I searched and did not find any reference.
Thanks, Ralph |
Pics?
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Sorry, camera isn't here so I took this with my camera
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Just a note:
Originally Posted by Ralph Newman
(Post 9809769)
I am chasing down a leak in the rear ac with a sniffer. I assumed I would find it at one of the "o" ring connection. Instead it started screaming at the return, low pressure, line where it transitions from steel to the flexible fabric/rubber just below the expansion valve. Before I take it off I was curios if anyone else had this fail. I searched and did not find any reference.
Thanks, Ralph Those hoses don't look to be stock. I just finished a re&re on my rear unit, and my 1990 hoses look to be original and also more robust than those. I suppose it's quite possible for a failure to occur at the crimp if someone wasn't paying attention on assembly. Just another note: Source some "Nylog" blue for the reassembly (thanks Jeff), and the proper "O" Rings...... |
Ya..thats not stock. Just get some new lines made up..but better than those. :)
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Those hoses don't even look like a/c barrier hose.
The factory rear A/C hoses there are 'reduced' sizes (not metric) to keep the console cover from bulging. All the other factory hoses are regular a/c hose sizes (not metric). Most shops don't have hose crimping tools for reduced sizes, so they would likely substitute regular sized hose and aluminum braze on beadlock compatible fittings for that size hose. Even if they used reduced size hose, they would likely braze on new hose fittings. The barrier hose has a layer of plastic that acts as a barrier to keep the refrigerant in much longer than conventional hose would. http://ribetautoparts.com/images/pro...ail/rb12.2.jpg |
Mine was repaired with a brazed on fitting at somepoint in its life.
Tips here: You don't have to remove the passenger seat, though it makes things easier. Once yoy remove the lines from the car, leave the valve on the end. Then you can pressure test the whole thing, rear evap and all, when it's not in the car. Good luck! |
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