s4 engine removal/bearings
#46
Three Wheelin'
You can easily see a .4 mm end play movement... There was a certain 928 with the flex plate completely pushed against the flywheel, so much that the flex plate had conformed to the inside shape of the flywheel. It looked pretty bad and engine was hard to turn with hand. But once the bolt was undone and pressure was released, engine turned fine and the end play measured within spec.... So go get a good dial indicator and a magnetic stand and remeasure.
Taking one of these apart and putting them back together is not easy work, its not an overnight job, a lot of work and time has to be spent and a lot of mistakes can be made if you don't know what you are doing. If damage has been done it will be a lot easier and cheaper to just buy a good used engine from 928 international. You can easily spend $10,000 on just parts and cylinder head work when you rebuild a S4+ engine.
Taking one of these apart and putting them back together is not easy work, its not an overnight job, a lot of work and time has to be spent and a lot of mistakes can be made if you don't know what you are doing. If damage has been done it will be a lot easier and cheaper to just buy a good used engine from 928 international. You can easily spend $10,000 on just parts and cylinder head work when you rebuild a S4+ engine.
#47
Rennlist
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I understand digital calipers are not right tool. But my point is the movement in flywheel/ starter ring assembly is significant enough to be measured by tape measure. I surmise that others that are in spec need dial gauges BC they are measuring fractions of a mm...or minute fractions of an inch .o16 etc....if the crank moves about 1 mm you can see that movement. Less than .4 mm the crank barely moves.
My flex plate as pictured is really bowed and lots of spline showing. Others I see almost no spline or couple mm. I have 8mm showing with bolt out.
The oil filter is mahle...thick thick oil...it is dirty but no sparkling. The plug has fine barbs on it and some silvery slurry I will post a pic. Oil filter oil drained and no sparkles. Oil is my best guess 20w definitely not 5w or 10w....based on my visual measure of using all these oils.
My flex plate as pictured is really bowed and lots of spline showing. Others I see almost no spline or couple mm. I have 8mm showing with bolt out.
The oil filter is mahle...thick thick oil...it is dirty but no sparkling. The plug has fine barbs on it and some silvery slurry I will post a pic. Oil filter oil drained and no sparkles. Oil is my best guess 20w definitely not 5w or 10w....based on my visual measure of using all these oils.
At .25mm, the crankshaft "clunks" forward and then backwards....it actually is quite a bit of movement and very easy to hear....however, it sounds like a bunch more movement than it actually is.
If you think you can actually measure, with a tape measure, the amount of movement...you might as well get a manual, disconnect the battery, and start reading.....but many people, here, will not be happy that you didn't confirm your belief with science. (Roger at 928-R-Us has copies of Jim Moorehouse's CD, I believe.)
Actually, a pair of digital calipers will tell you what you need to know....certainly close enough. Pick a spot that you can accurately repeatably measure from....perhaps the inside lip of the bell housing to the flyweel or from the stater bracket to the flywheel. Move the crank forward and backwards a couple of times to confirm your measurements.
It actually is easy to see the amount of "dish" in your flexplate picture....and that is certainly about as bad as it ever gets. There's an "inner" edge on the flywheel....just below the surface where the flexplate actually mounts....if the flexplate hits that surface, there is usually damage to the bearing. Your flexplate is clearly "crushed" way beyond that step....even in the blury picture, you can see the rust from the flexplate hitting that surface.
Many of the people here are very helpful and there is a tremendous amount of knowledge available here. I'm pretty sure you could restore a 928 from the ground up, with the knowledge on this Forum. But if you start asking how far back the muffler bearing needs to be to get the Halogen fluid into the headlights, you will quickly loose some of us, due to lack of interest.
Get a shop manual.
Measure the endplay, to make everyone happy.
Report back.....and remember, that once you join this Forum and start asking questions....you are actually only using your hands, while the rest of us think, for you!
Kind of like a "Stepford" Mechanic.
__________________
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
#48
Team Owner
Thats some funny stuff there.....If you think you can actually measure, with a tape measure, the amount of movement..
#51
Three Wheelin'
Never mind, pull the engine out. Sorry to see this, once you pull it out you can decide do rebuild if the block is ok or just get a used one from 928 international and reuse your heads.
#52
Team Owner
to put a period on this thread.
What you see is finely ground aluminum from the crank grinding away at the thrust bearing,
it has most probably worn through the thrust bearing and is into the block web.
The oil will also be filled with very fine metallic particles and
these will be seen with dripping the oil onto black cardboard and looking at the oil in the sun,
with a magnifying glass.
These same particles have also contaminated the oil cooler and the lifters,
so it would be an easier job to install a good running used engine than to fix the metal grinder you have now
What you see is finely ground aluminum from the crank grinding away at the thrust bearing,
it has most probably worn through the thrust bearing and is into the block web.
The oil will also be filled with very fine metallic particles and
these will be seen with dripping the oil onto black cardboard and looking at the oil in the sun,
with a magnifying glass.
These same particles have also contaminated the oil cooler and the lifters,
so it would be an easier job to install a good running used engine than to fix the metal grinder you have now
#53
Racer
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s4 engine removal bearings
understood. i am actually looking forward to getting to know this car better. i know this would not have happened under my watch, but now that it is here i understand the scope of what i am dealing with. i will pull the engine and go from there.