joedr3dd

Hi all

Just look through the DIY faqs part on the site on how to change Power steering hoses on my 86.5 UK model.

There are some instructions for the resovoir etc, but couldnt see any for the high pressure hoses.

Can someone point me in the right direction on how to get the pipes out so i can get them replaced

Thanks in advance

John

yardpro

i recently did mine and it was pretty self explanatory.

look down from th drivers side and you can see the lines where they connect to the pump, follow them all the way to the rack.

I had to remove the coil and of course the cold air intake tubes to get to them. Instead of buying new i had mine remade at a hydraulic shop. they put in a swivel in the middle,so it made lining up the banjo fittings really simple.

you will need to unbolt the sway bar to get to the bottom bolts on the rack.

StratfordShark

Hi John,

I replaced the high pressure line on my old S4 (1988). Didn't have to remove coil (maybe different for LHD cars?).

When you say "high pressure hoses" which are you referencing? there is only one high pressure line, from pump to rack, and this is a common failure point. The low pressure return hose to reservoir, and supply hose from reservoir to pump may weep a bit at the reservoir nipples where they soften over time, but rarely leak seriously. What symptoms of fluid loss do you have?

joedr3dd

Thanks for the replies guys

I think you are right the leak may well be with the one hose, havent checked under car but initial checking it seems to be leaking (a lot) it sprays everywhere and looses fluid in the res very quickly, suggests high pressure hose on the the pipe where it joins the metal if that makes sense just was curious on how to remove lines so i can get them to Pertech to get them replaced

John

StratfordShark

Yes that's common fail point. Remove from under car. Loosen drop links so sway bar can be pulled down, allows you to get socket at connection to rack.

You have to drop alternator to disconnect at pump. Along the way it is held by clamp LHS engine bay, and by clamp on cross member.

When installing new line, use new copper crush washers at pump and rack. Needn't be Porsche part but must be same internal diameter. It's standard metric size - see PET for dimension or measure old ones. New standard ones have larger outer diameter which is not an issue.

StratfordShark

PS do not drive car till line changed as fluid is sprayed onto hot exhaust manifold!

atb

I'm in the middle of doing this right now.
Did I miss the memo on how to remove the top alternator bolt without having to remove the rad fans, or is that just a necessary evil?

Gary Knox

Adam,

It's MUCH easier to take that top alternator bolt out with the fans removed. With the exact correct tools (I've forgotten what I used once when I did it), you can get the bolt out. Getting it back in is even tougher than getting it out!!!

Gary Knox

Tom in Austin

On my car, the bolt can come forward enough to free the alternator with fans in place. Good part, if there is one, with the alternator down you can check and make sure the hose on the back is ok and fully seated on the cooling shroud.

WYAIT, you can also replace the short section of hose beneath the reservoir where it connects to the cooler pipe. This is a notorious leaky spot, just have to dremel off the coupling there and then clamp on a bit of new hose. It's low pressure so the connections aren't as critical. And, of course, the third hose goes from underside of the reservoir to the back of the pump and is nice to replace too if you want everything bone dry.

Good luck and don't cuss as much as I did when replacing the hoses ;-)

StratfordShark

On S4 I just need to lift the fan shroud by a few inches so alternator bolt lines up with shroud so it can come out. Replacing alternator on that pivot bolt is exhausting! Huge help if someone can be sliding bolt in while you adjust position of alternator (or you can choose easier job of sliding the bolt!).

daveo90s4

Some years ago since I did mine on RHD S4.

Yes, loosen the two 10mm bolts atop the fan housing so that can be raised slightly to get the alt. bolt out. I didn't need to do anything with the steering rack / front subframe, that stayed as was. There's a bracket on the rear face of the subframe with an allen head bolt in it - it's worth getting that back in place loosely before tightening all the hose connections, then doing that up last (as I recall). If having another piece made pay particular attention to the angles of the banjos or, as has already been said, have a swivel coupling put in.

To bleed the system (once reservoir refilled) you need to turn the steering from lock to lock but without forcing the steering at the end of each lock (if you know what I mean).

joedr3dd

Hello all

Disconnected both pipes from res end and pump end but having trouble removing the pipes, seems to be stuck, can someone tell me how the factory pipes were routed tried with some force to remove but they arent budging

Cheers

John

dr bob

On US/LHD cars, the hoses are captive in a clamp that bolts to the top of the crossmember under and to the rear of the steering pump. Bolt is vertical, from the top, 6mm with 10mm hex head, through the clamp, the crossmember, into a nut that's welded to the inside of the crossmember. There is also a plastic tie-wrap that holds the steel rack ends of the lines together with the battery cable, but that's more to hold the battery cables up than it is to secure the PS lines..

On RHD cars like yours, the routing of the lines has to include sections and attachments for the right-side location of the spool valve and pinion in the rack housing. I haven't been exposed to a RHD car yet, so I guess I'd look to see if the clamp on the left end of the crossmember is still used.

StratfordShark

John I can confirm that on RHD car there is clamp on crossmember - easy to see and access from under the car.

Not being funny, but you have disconnected line at the rack connection haven't you? You refer to "both pipes from rees end and pump end", but the leaking line is the pressure line which connects to rack and pump.

jpitman2

I Did mine (RHD S) a while ago due to a pinhole leak in the pressure line. The pump connection was stuck so I had to remove the pump as well as the alternator. There is a clamp on the left rear of the crossmember on a RHD car. Due the danger of fire from a leak , I suggest sleeving the pressure hose with something heat resistant - I used some stuff called Firesleeve (I think) - comes in several sizes, lined with some furry stuff (fibre glass?), red on the outside. If the hose does leak, it will contain the fluid and let it dribble out the end, away from the exhaust. I have also covered my pressure fuel line with this stuff.
See 4th item here:-
http://www.pacificmh.com.au/site/ind...mple-product-1
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k