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Help: replacing SC belt on Vortech/Murph unit

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Old 08-11-2012, 08:03 PM
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chaadster
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Question Help: replacing SC belt on Vortech/Murph unit

Hey y'all,

I'm hoping someone can lend me some pointers on replacing the supercharger belt on a Vortech unit. I have one that's shredded, and don't know exactly where to start with the R&R.

Murf himself did the install, so this is my first time getting into the system, so with that in mind, don't take anything for granted!

I'm hoping to suss out the reason for the shred at the same time, so if any cause occurs to you, I'd appreciate those insights, too.

Thanks in advance for the help!
Old 08-11-2012, 08:46 PM
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Hold On
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How many miles did you put on it? Mine went at about 27K. Just worn out. My replacement belt and new bearings should be here next Tues. Then its time to open it up and see what we have.
Old 08-11-2012, 09:01 PM
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chaadster
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I don't know mileage; I'd guess fewer than 3k. I drove it a fair amount last year, but really short trips, so this is easily premature failure.
Old 08-11-2012, 09:31 PM
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jthwan22
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there is a nut with a spring under it. You will need to loosen that nut to remove the tension on the belt. I used a Dayco Poly Cog Gold Label 5080430 8PK1090 belt last time.
Old 08-11-2012, 10:11 PM
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chaadster
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Originally Posted by jthwan22
there is a nut with a spring under it. You will need to loosen that nut to remove the tension on the belt. I used a Dayco Poly Cog Gold Label 5080430 8PK1090 belt last time.
Thanks, JT. I actually got a Bando 8PK1075 belt based on the part number I got from Auzivision; I'll have double check that to make sure it's the right one.

It looks like all I need to do is loosen and remove the power steering belt and alternator belt in order to get to the SC belt, is that right?

Is it possible to loosen the alternator from above, or do I need to jack the car and remove the belly pan to do that?
Old 08-12-2012, 09:07 AM
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Gretch
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Why not call Tim?

He has always been very responsive to my questions and STILL has the passion for his stuff.

The matter of a potential early failure points to a misaligned pully issue or possibly a failed bearing...... changing the belt out will only provide false sense of security, unless you determine WHY the belt failed the way it did.
Old 08-12-2012, 10:15 AM
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chaadster
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Originally Posted by Gretch
Why not call Tim?

He has always been very responsive to my questions and STILL has the passion for his stuff.

The matter of a potential early failure points to a misaligned pully issue or possibly a failed bearing...... changing the belt out will only provide false sense of security, unless you determine WHY the belt failed the way it did.
Yes, I did contact Tim first-thing, but I haven't heard from him yet.
Old 08-12-2012, 11:37 AM
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auzivision
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I hope I recommended the correct belt, some chance it will be too long since your stage 3 pulley is slightly smaller than mine. If so, I'll buy the one you have if you can't return it: The run in 5 or 10 mm increment and IIRC I have the smaller one and mine is very very tight.

Anyhow, maybe you'll find some value in this. Following is a link to a thread where I replaced my first belt after cutting the old one off (which makes removal simple and the car will still run ok, just down on power):

https://rennlist.com/forums/7663753-post297.html

See post 298+
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...d-video-8.html

You really need a pry bar like this... hopefully it will become obvious where to insert to unload idler tensioner after loosen spring nut as much as possible without running out of threads.

I believe it's the big one or second to biggest in this set, trust me and just get this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...-set-1654.html

the crook on the end is just the perfect shape and I bent my largest craftsman screw driver

You have to remove the other belts. Even after letting off all the tension, IIRC I always end up loosening and or removing the bolts to the P/S and Alternator cassette/bracket. Which I always do from below.

Also, you need to lower the coolant level to remove the upper radiator hose. I'd say you really need ramps, stands or a lift to gain access to below.
Old 08-12-2012, 01:37 PM
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I obviously mis understood the original post. I thought he was talking about the belt inside the blower. My powerdyne has a kevlar belt instead of twin gears.
Most premature external belt failures are caused by some mis-alighnment of pulleys.
Old 08-12-2012, 09:10 PM
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I'd call Tim again. He has always responded and supported my SC. I've even called him on Sunday morning and if I don't get him he always calls me quickly. He's a great guy with a great product. Good luck, Brian
Old 08-12-2012, 11:44 PM
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AO
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Tim was "camping" this weekend. I dont think he has cell coverage up there.

Chaad, feel free to give me a call. I'd be happy to assist if I have the time. I've done a few of these belts.
Old 08-13-2012, 12:33 PM
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Yeah, I figured he was out-of-town/vacationing or something like that, because he has also been available and helpful to me previously, too.

AO, thank you, and you know I probably will!
Old 08-14-2012, 11:33 PM
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Don't forget to vote for him.



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