Ducman82

With no fuel or spark ( plugs out). Build up oil pressure? I just installed the new Roger starter and wanted to "prime" the motor with oil. But pressure does not seem to build.....

SQLGuy

Yes, it should. It may be that the gauge doesn't engage until the engine's running, though. Some of the other indicators certainly wait for "running" before showing a value. That would keep the car from reporting a low pressure fault at every startup, I think.

Ducman82

that sounds about right..... i wonder if i can yank out the sender and install a manual gauge?

depami

I don't think it's "running", I think it's "key not in cranking position".




Yes, I've done that. I used a compression testing gauge with a spark plug adapter that fit in place of the sending unit.

It was quite confusing until I realized to take the check valve out of the compression testing set up.

SQLGuy

If the '81's anything like the later cars, you'll want some special (short and thin) 24mm and 27mm wrenches so that you don't end up loosening (or removing) the sender housing instead of the sender. Once removed, the sender housing is a bit of a pain to get sealed properly afterwards... and you need to replace its crush ring, which is a special Roger order...

Last time I swapped a sender (on the GTS) I bought pair of those size wrenches from Advance Auto Parts, cut them in half with an angle grinder, and then ground the ends thin enough to fit side-by-side on the sender and its housing. The fab work on the wrenches was a bit of a pain, but it made swapping the sender a piece of cake.

If you just want to see things moving, you can probably jumper a multimeter to the sense terminal and ground and see changes in resistance as pressure builds.

SQLGuy

If it's "key not in cranking position", then you can probably just turn the ignition on and bridge the starter solenoid.

Ducman82

might try bridging that tomorrow... :-P

depami

Post #6 has some info I gathered from my '82 a while back.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...tter-ohms.html

How does one link directly to a specific post of a thread?

928mac

so you installed the started, did an oil change and then pulled the plugs right?

Is the car on an angle, front end in the air?
You should have got pressure with-in 30-45 sec

Has it been sitting a long time without oil?
If so it may take double that time but after that you may have to slip your belt off the pump and turn it with an air ratchet.

Brad

Dave928S

Click on the post number in the top right corner of that individual post and it'll bring it up separately ... then copy that URL

Here's the link .... https://rennlist.com/forums/7196388-post6.html

brianrheffron

Re. SQLguy's tip about grinding spanners to fit, I am not
familiar with this job but it may be worth looking in a good
bike store for suitable spanners. There are several common
spanners that are very thin (say 3-4mm) and are in the larger
size range. I have some in my bike tool box for adjusting
head sets and bottom brackets. I can't remember the exact
sizes but they could be a better starting point than auto spanners

BRB-83-911SC

Before first start after putting my engine back together, we cranked it with the relays pulled to get oil pressure. After a bit of cranking, we got 5 bar showing (enought to reveal my cam tower oil leak).

Make sure the leads on the oil pressure sender are not reversed. Mine were at first, and it didn't show a reading on the gauge correctly. One lead/pin feeds the op warning light and the other for the op gauge reading.

BRB-83-911SC

In my case the guage provided a reading with the key in the cranking position.

depami

Good to know, thanks.




I managed with a 4" Crescent wrench and a cheap Sears (not Crastsman) open end.

If you take off just the sender you don't the the sealing ring. The sender has taper threads. See 59, 60 & 61.

Ducman82

Wires are correct, I'm going to try jumping while the ignition is on run. If that does not show, I'll remove the belt and try a drill on the pump it's self.