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My 1986 928S Has Been Sitting For 12 Years In My Garage

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Old 05-31-2012, 03:07 PM
  #31  
dcrasta
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Originally Posted by Podguy
Changing oil and coolant is the biggest fraud going. Cars can easily go 15K on an oil change more if it is syntheic. I have never seen an engine fail for the lack of an oil change. Back in the 60s I owned an 56 Olds with 100K. The engine was serviced by the agancy at proper intervals. A friend owned a 56 Olds that he bought new and drove 100K with no service. Old 50s cars could do that. Both engines were the same. The one that had the regular oil changes had less gunk inside the engine but not by much. If oil changes were so important then why did the neglected engine do as well as the well serviced engine. In fact other than oxidation on the neglected car both cars were about the same condition. A wax job and a little cleaning and both cars looked pretty much the same.

Now maybe if you are racing a car and the oil breaks down from high heat - maybe oil changes can make a difference. Under normal operating conditions 20K is adequate. I am more inclided to follow the schedule on automatic transmission oil changes though. I am also inclined to do break fluid changes on german and english cars. The moisture the fluid absorbs can do damage to the brake components
Compared to internal engine repair Oil changes and coolant flushes are cheap. I have links to youtube video's of engines that have been neglected by lack of frequent oil and coolant changes.

Antifreeze contains chemicals that inhibit corrosion and scale formation in the engine and radiator. Age degrades the effectiveness of the additives and over time can cause the formation of corrusion and scale buildup in the passages and radiator. THis can lead to premature failure of the water pump and degraded performance of the radiator and/or cooling passages in the head and block. Also this can lead to deterioration of the Head gasket (the 928 has a 'wet' cylinder liner. Cooling system neglect is the leading cause of premature engine failure and Ethylene glycol is a petrochemical product. All Petrochemical products degrade over time. This is why gasoline 'goes bad', Oil oxidizes, absorbs moisture, gets contaminated with combustion byproducts, destabilized by exposure to heat (thermal breakdown), etc.

Considering these cars are high performance aluminum block/head designs, I would not compare this motor to your fathers oldsmobile.

The differences in operating temps alone (with the more modern 928 engine adding thermal stress to the coolant and oil systems that the older v8s never reached) require better lubrication and temp control across a wider operating range (Rpm).

Best to follow the Factory recommendations, and that typically calls for frequent oil changes (5~10k miles depending on environment and driving conditions) and coolant replacement every year or so.

My water pump and bearings are too expensive to gamble with. YMMV.
Old 06-04-2012, 04:02 PM
  #32  
sharkbite84s
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Hey viper,

Wow this sounds familiar. I have an 84 S2 Euro 5 speed that I have owned since 1986. It was only driven occasionally after 1992 and has been parked under a cover in my garage since 1999 which is the last time it would start. About three weeks ago, I decided to get it back on the road. BTW, I live in Bethesda.

Check out Dwayne's excellent thread about removing your gas tank. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...re-w-pics.html

That should be the first thing you do. My fuel pump was trashed, not sure when, but the screen was bad and the gunk in the gas would have done it this time if it was not already gone. I found an unbelievable amount of crud from the old gas gumming up the return line / level sender, the baffle in the bottom of the tank, etc. I took the tank out and cleaned it out with Berryman B12 and it is all clean now. Waiting on parts to put it back together.

Now I am on the electrical system. Doing the grounds and chasing bad relays. Just getting going on this, but so far I can't get any sign of spark, but am hoping/expecting a few new relays and clean grounds, plugs, fuses, etc. will do the trick. Then it will be on to the next thing. Fortunately it has been sitting with clean Mobil 1 in it so the engine turns nice and smooth. I am just hoping my LH and ignition controllers are OK as they are pretty expensive pieces. I had bought the factory service manuals back in the 1980's so that helps a bunch.

I think if you start with the fuel and do all of the fluids, and electrical suggestions and take it slow you can get yours running. Don't replace all of the things that might be bad, focus on what is bad. Once it is running you can do the other things. I am expecting this to take me a while since I still have kids sports going on etc. etc. The good thing is they are encouraging me to get it going. I guess it is an image thing.

Good luck with your car.

Terry
Old 06-04-2012, 09:31 PM
  #33  
brutus
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The 84 Euro 16 valve PROBABLY will not bend valves if the long overdo T-belt jumps time. The 32 valve engine 99.99 % of the time will bend most if not all the valves ! Major difference. But fuel issues, corrosion from old coolant and brake system corrosion are much the same.
But get them running and enjoy your cars !!
Old 06-05-2012, 01:17 AM
  #34  
Hilton
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Originally Posted by brutus
The 84 Euro 16 valve PROBABLY will not bend valves if the long overdo T-belt jumps time.
That depends on the engine number - early '84 Euro's used the same pistons as the 80-83 928S (4.7L k-jet), which are non-interference.

Partway during the 84 model year, the piston design was changed to the S2 high compression version - still a 4.7L engine, but yielding 10.4:1 compression.

There's a good thread somewhere here on the differences and it references the changeover point.

edit: found it.. here's the info for Terry just above with the Euro S2.

Note the two engine number cutoffs - one is for auto's, one for manuals. Terry - if your engine number is under that range, in your shoes, I'd just deal with getting the car started first. If above definitely do the timing belt before trying to start

Originally Posted by 993turbo
the compression ratio is 10,0:1 for the engines in the 80 - 83 ROW (euro) S.

10,0:1 is also the compression ratio for the EARLY 84' model year ROW S (S2) with LH-jet. The change to the 10,4:1 pistons were at the following engine numbers ( as I wrote in my previous post )

M28/21 82E 00596
M28/22 82E 06114

the change to the new 10,4:1 pistons happened sometimes in the middle of the 84 (E) model year.
Old 06-05-2012, 01:09 PM
  #35  
sharkbite84s
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Hilton,
Thank you for the info. Mine is a 10:1 car using your post. Also I had cam belt in just before parking it.
Terry
Old 06-06-2012, 02:59 PM
  #36  
Vipermn1
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Thanks. Car is being worked on now, all the basics as you mentioned are being done and then once running i'll get to whatever else is necessary. Can't wait to hear it running again.
Old 06-06-2012, 03:46 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Vipermn1
Thanks. Car is being worked on now, all the basics as you mentioned are being done and then once running i'll get to whatever else is necessary. Can't wait to hear it running again.
Gotta ask....why did you park it in the 1st place? The standard answer is something expensive needed repair so it was parked.....
Old 06-06-2012, 04:04 PM
  #38  
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I mentioned earlier that there was nothing wrong with the vehicle when i parked it. My son's grew up playing very competitive baseball and i coached their teams and to top that off i travel a ton for work. Still no excuse for letting it sit but i have three other cars that i drive two Mercedes and an Acura MDX. Just want to get it up and running and have some fun with it now that my boys are older.
Old 06-06-2012, 05:06 PM
  #39  
Vipermn1
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Just heard from my guy and my car is running!! No knocking, no oil blowing out the back, running smooth. Did just enough to fire it up to make sure no crazy issues. Still much to do on it from a preventative maintenance stand point but's running! Did need a fuel pump and filter just to get it fired up. Still need to replace the plugs, wires, fluids, etc.
Old 06-06-2012, 06:20 PM
  #40  
brutus
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And you NEED to have the rubber timing belt changed ! But good that it is running,if it were my car I would NOT turn the key again until it had a new belt but I would not have turned the key at all. You rolled the dice and won ! Please do not keep throwing the dice, because the odds are not in your favor.
Old 06-06-2012, 10:50 PM
  #41  
Vipermn1
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Brutus thanks! Timing belt being installed tomorrow as well as the rest of the necessary maintenance. By the way how can i add a picture?
Old 06-06-2012, 11:45 PM
  #42  
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Www.photobucket.com
Old 06-06-2012, 11:49 PM
  #43  
Vipermn1
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Thanks! I'll add pic's of my car car soon.
Old 06-07-2012, 08:39 AM
  #44  
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Old 06-07-2012, 08:41 AM
  #45  
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