donzimatt

My shifter linkage let go and it ended up that those plastic/rubber bushings in the ujoint back by the transmission broke out. So I know I can get a new ujoint thing, but I'm looking at that and it's in great shape except those busings are gone, I'm wondering why I can't:

1. machine some new nylon or plastic busings and press them in both sides.

2. machine some new bronze bushings and press them in each side.

3. press some sealed roller bearings in both sides. Would this be an upgrade?

Anyone try any of those things? Am I missing somehting?

thanks, Matt

GlenL

Search on the site for details. This is a problem part on the car.

There are metal replacements available. Maybe there has been improvements but they were tending to make the shifter buzz. I'd think nylon parts would be better.

karl ruiter

I think Roger or someone has Delrin bushings. You could cut them yourself out of Delrin or HDPE, I would think.

Hilton

Just buy new Porsche bushings - they're a 911 part number. Easily replaced - I've done it 3 times now (3 different 928's). A search for "rear shift coupler bushings" will bring it up.

Jim Devine

Not a direct drop in, but the best joints available:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=1490

Gary Knox

I installed the Delrin bushings that Roger sells in the rear linkage coupler on my '89 S4, along with Lizard's shifter in the console this winter.

WOW - it's like a short throw gated shifter now. I highly recommend BOTH of these products - and Roger also sells bronze shifter bushings as I recall.

Gary Knox

SQLGuy

+1 on the Delrin bushings the Roger is now selling. The earlier bronze ones were easier to install, but seemed to be prone to rattling. The Delrin ones install like the stock Porsche bushings, but provide a tighter fit for a more solid feel to the shifting.

BTW, you'll definitely want to order a new grub screw since the existing one will likely get destroyed during removal of the coupler. Good luck on the removal, anyway, as it can be a real pain. If you have a wire feed welder and an Allen bit you don't mind throwing away, welding the bit into the grub screw is a good way to ensure you can get that screw out of there without breaking anything.

Ducman82

I got the lizard shifter and bronze bushings. Had a little buzz for a few days, but it vanished. Love the feel

donzimatt

Thanks for all the info. I think to avoid any rattle issues I'll use delrin or nylon. I'll just machine them since I want to get it done and I like to do that sort of thing. So can I drill the hole in the bushing to be as tight as possible and still rotate freely, or do I need to leave a little clearance for any reason. I ask because the stock bushing that fell out had some clearance, not sure if it wore there or if it needs to be there from the beginning.

The cup is gone from my front socket and cup and I think I'll make a nylon cup to go in there too.

I read the other posts as recommended and found the tip on making another set screw so I don't need to worry about that tiny allen head in the future. I got totally lucky this time in that the screw was in place but literally hand tight.

ROG100

The stock bushes are $4 each and have a slightly oval center hole.
The delrin bushes have a circular hole to tighten up the shift.
We no longer make the bronze bushes as they could cause a sizzle to the gear ****.
The Lizard shifter does away with the front ball socket coupling for a near perfect shift.

Dave928S

I've used the Delrin and found them to be much better than the original. I can see no practical reason why the originals have built in sloppiness, nor does it have any negative effect when you get rid of the play.
Here's a pic ....

Podguy

Because it is a Porsche. Have you ever driven an early 914 or 911? Porsche is well known for its sloppy shifting.

Dave928S

Yeah I've driven a couple of early 911's when new (not tired old ones), but can't say I remember them having sloppy gearshifts ... probably too busy stopping them from swapping ends !!!