17prospective buyer

I'm in process of painting my lower crossmember, it's not bad, but there was a ton of rust which took me and my buddy a while to strip down to bare metal. It's prepped almost ready to prime, but i noticed that the lower control arm mounts have some rust pits in them from moisture finding it's way into the control arm bushings.

What would be a good way to fill the pits so i have a smooth surface for the control arm bushings to pivot on? I was thinking some sort of "plastic metal" filler i have.

Could i just fabricate a sheet metal "bearing" similar to a crank bearing? The issue i see with that is that, like using shims to adjust camber/caster, it could throw off camber.

Also, any tips for reassembly of the crossmember to the frame/suspension? Lubricants to use?

Lizard928

The rubber bushings do not rotate and therefor just paint and forget about it.
Or better yet just powdercoat it.

928Myles

I found that having a bolt shaft (no threads) of the same size as the upper crossmember bolts with a taper on one end was very useful for positioning the two parts together.
I tapped the tapered bolt through from the front of the car to line things up then punched it out from the back of the car with the upper cross member bolt.

There was no way I was going to get them lined up any other way - even with all the main crossmember bolts loose.

Myles

dr bob

Have the crossmember chem stripped or blasted, and powdercoated. That way the rust is stopped and the finish will be durable. You'll scratch a spray-painted part just installing it. Trust me... Plus getting the correct not-quite-satin-black finish is tough with cans. And by the time you get the HVLP set up for painting, the cost/effort/benefit ratios point more and more to powdercoating.

Echo those who suggest that you not bother filling pits in the control arm bushing bosses.

Getting the top bolts to line up: A tapered punch or the tapered bolt works, but (purists take note) the original bolts fit in from the front with the nuts towards the rear. Space is really tight towards the rear. If you have an assistant, get a stick/broomhandle/whatever, and have the assistant push down on the frame bracket from above the engine to get the bracket end to line up with the ears on the crossmember. Takes mere seconds this way.

928Myles

Good points & tips Dr Bob. Some previous person must have put my bolts in backwards as I installed as per the way they came out.

Myles

dr bob

Problems likely began when they built the car on the other side of the steering wheel. Obviously just the tip of an iceberg.

928Myles

That'll explain why I have four reverse gears and one forward - that and plus the fact that everything turns the opposite way this side of the equator. Maybe I should turn my engine couter-clockwise when checking timing belt tension....

Probably also explains while I always feel that I am going backwards with the car....

Myles

17prospective buyer

Well Bob, you may have seen my post in the "Undercarriage paint" thread about painting my crossmember with engine enamel. I do agree if you have the money powdercoating is the way to go for a permanent finish but if the prep is done right i think a spray can finish can get it right. My crossmember turned out great. I meticulously made sure there was absolutely no rust before painting. Trust me, i believe in professional prep and the crosmember alone took hours to prep, plus the upper angle supports and tow-hooks.

Well, what lubricant would be recommended for reassembly? Lithium based lube?

Imo000

Nothing on the bushings, they were dry from the factory. Use anti-sieze on the bolt tbreads.