westija

'89 928 S4 recently purchased and had this cable disconnected. Does anyone know what this is? Is it the power/control to the cooling flaps (0 / 30 / 100% opening)? If the flaps mechanism is stuck or broken and I reconnect this, could it cause any trouble? My concern is that I am not sure why PO left this unconnected.



Also, does anyone know what the small filter located on top center behind radiator is for (part number 928 113 445 00 - Filter Cartridge) ? I can see that from its housing there is a hose/line going under the left side of the engine.

Thanks

blown 87

The cable goes the the cooling flaps, that is a easy way to disable the flaps.
The filter is for the air pump.

Mrmerlin

If the flaps are open,
then remove the flap fuse,

NOTE fuse relay chart here,
on page two,
under tips and links
www.928gt.com

then connect the connector .

You may be able to match up the filter at autozone,
its for the airpump

westija

Mr Merlin,
I've pulled the fuse as you mentioned and have had no issues since. Thanks for the tip.
The only thing I noticed is that my Cooling Flap Relay continuously clicks and warms up after a while, when I am working on the car and have everything off (maybe it does when I have the car running too, but I can't hear it). I suspect it is "trying" to close the flaps and hope this is normal
Do you know if I can remove the relay too, so I prevent the battery to discharge and the clicking?
Thanks

landsharklady

Hey Westija, did you pull the relay? i've just encountered this problem today!

westija

No, I have not. It still clicks continuously (which I suspect might cause some battery discharging, but am not sure as I keep a maintainer anyway). I will follow this thread for additional insights.

Mrmerlin

you could try pulling the relay as well as the fuse once the flaps are open,
a clicking relay isnt a good thing if the key is off.

Since you know a relay is still operating,
then you might want to check other relays for staying on after the key is off.
Pay attention to the ignition relay in particular,
if its stuck on it will power other relays that should be off

To do this get an IR gun drive the car and then shut it off and leave it for 5 mins,

then open the CE panel and shoot the relays,
any that are still hot need to be investigated ,
also make sure you have the correct relay in the correct slot,
and that there are not relays in slots that should be empty.

Important that there are fuses in only the slots that are supposed to be filled,
adding fuses to empty slots can back power other circuits and thus relays that should be off are still on

fuse relay chart here www.928gt.com
on page two under tips and links

dr bob

I had the clicking-relay symptom as well, and solved it by putting the fuse back in, starting and stopping the engine, then removing the fuse again. I don't see any position feedback contacts from the flap motor that might cause the controller to try to correct the position, so don't really know why this worked, but it did. YMMV, of course.

I usually put the fuse back in for "winter" driving, such as it is here in Los Angeles anyway. Winter driving sometimes means the AC isn't needed. Having the flaps operational allows the engine to warm up more quickly, a plus in anything but the warmest weather here.

landsharklady

Further investigation today revealed that the flaps had actually been fastened open by a p/o.
We replaced a load of fuses (following the fuse chart) a few days ago.
I think in doing so we activated the flaps- but of course, they couldn't move, st relay went mental and it seemed to affect the fans as well, they stopped working while this was going on and the alternator reading fluctuated every time the relay started clicking.
Removed fuse today, but the relay was still clicking so took that out a well. fans both working fine again and everything working as it should..
Who knows!!