How about some help on diagnosing this issue.
Things that we now are good.
Plugs, wires, all vacuum, ground points, rebuilt injectors, coil and timing belt marks are good too. Have tried several timings with no real change.
Car has a surge at 2600 to 3000 rpm only under load. Below that and above the car pulls just fine. At 4000 rpm there is a massive valve clatter or detonation ( can't really hear with my old ears).
Anyone have any clues??
First video shows sound at idle.
Second video shows sound at clatter or detonation.
Third video shows surge.
Last edited by Dean_Fuller; Mar 14, 2012 at 11:24 PM.
It sounds like it is pinging to death at mid range but don't know why it would clear up in the later RPM's.
One thing we didn't talk about was making sure the vacuum lines coming off the throttle body were in the correct spots. Each one has different purpose. Some only are open when the throttle plate is at certain positions, some have vacuum at idle, some don't etc. Rechecking those and making sure they go where they are supposed to might make a difference.
We also ( because I thought some vac lines may be routed incorrectly) verified all the vac is routed correctly.
I can't think of anything that makes sense with the rpm differences. A damaged internal part would not really be rpm sensitive. ? It may indeed be 2 problems. ?
Just now uploaded the last video...look way too long.
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It seems like two distinct problems to me, but they may be related:
-Surge: Mostly under light load (constant throttle cruising). Disappears under almost any acceleration (doesn't have to be a hard acceleration), and is not really noticeable under deceleration. Its most noticeable about 2.5k - 3k, but with the exhaust leak fixed I seem to be noticing it more outside of this range.
-Pinging/Chatter: RPM specific, 4k - 5k and predictable in its occurence
It sounds like it is pinging to death at mid range but don't know why it would clear up in the later RPM's.
One thing we didn't talk about was making sure the vacuum lines coming off the throttle body were in the correct spots. Each one has different purpose. Some only are open when the throttle plate is at certain positions, some have vacuum at idle, some don't etc. Rechecking those and making sure they go where they are supposed to might make a difference.
I was suspicious of this from reading the 944 pages on their AFMs. We swapped in the meter from Dean's son's car. Now that I think of it though, we didn't get much of a chance to test it as we ran into a leak problem at the o-ring.
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