Ignition question
#1
Racer
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Ignition question
I just got my car back, and the workshop told me that after changing belts e.t.c the timing was now super and showed me the ignition distributor cap ( think thats the english for that ) 13 mm bolt was now back to center......you could see that before it was more towards the front and now it was in the center. But car ran poor ( slower ) so i try move the 13 mm bolt on the cap to original old marks and now it goes like bat out of hell again....what does this moving change ? Something with spark timing i guess..... But what ??? And could i make any damage ??
#2
it sets the igniton timing and more advance gives more acceleration BUT ! Too much and you get pinging knocking detonation as the flame starts too soon before the piston is all the way up and trying to compress the explosion can easily break piston rings and pistons. So yes you could damage the engine with too much advance. It needs to be set with a timing light using the marks on the harmonic balancer.
#3
Racer
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But when workshop say they put timinig correct now , and car feel so slow and not responsive compared to before, how can that be ?? I try to read some threads about timing and there seem too be many options..... I only run high octane ( euro 95/98 ) so that should help reg knocking, but i can not live with the power it puts out on the timing they want... Any adwise ?
#6
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I'm assuming that the note re your engine in your signature referring to an M12 engine means an M28/12, which is a ROW 4.7 litre. If it's a European ROW, then the timing is 26 Degrees BTDC at 3000 RPM with no vacuum connected. Mine runs well on 26 degrees.
For you to notice such a difference in performance I'd think they've set the timing incorrectly. Get them to do it again or get a timing light and do it yourself. Check what they set it at and let us know.
78's didn't come with that engine ... what year was it from? Do you have a VIN for the donor car? There is a bit of a discrepancy in the tech spec book which is confusing (shows both 28 and 26 for Europe & 23 for US, Japan and Sweden).
For you to notice such a difference in performance I'd think they've set the timing incorrectly. Get them to do it again or get a timing light and do it yourself. Check what they set it at and let us know.
78's didn't come with that engine ... what year was it from? Do you have a VIN for the donor car? There is a bit of a discrepancy in the tech spec book which is confusing (shows both 28 and 26 for Europe & 23 for US, Japan and Sweden).
#7
Racer
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I'm assuming that the note re your engine in your signature referring to an M12 engine means an M28/12, which is a ROW 4.7 litre. If it's a European ROW, then the timing is 26 Degrees BTDC at 3000 RPM with no vacuum connected. Mine runs well on 26 degrees.
For you to notice such a difference in performance I'd think they've set the timing incorrectly. Get them to do it again or get a timing light and do it yourself. Check what they set it at and let us know.
78's didn't come with that engine ... what year was it from? Do you have a VIN for the donor car? There is a bit of a discrepancy in the tech spec book which is confusing (shows both 28 and 26 for Europe & 23 for US, Japan and Sweden).
For you to notice such a difference in performance I'd think they've set the timing incorrectly. Get them to do it again or get a timing light and do it yourself. Check what they set it at and let us know.
78's didn't come with that engine ... what year was it from? Do you have a VIN for the donor car? There is a bit of a discrepancy in the tech spec book which is confusing (shows both 28 and 26 for Europe & 23 for US, Japan and Sweden).