Pan gasket replacemant
#1
Pan gasket replacemant
After 32 years the pan gasket on my 1980 Euro S is in need of replaceemnt when spring arrives. I have heard a number of differeing opinions on the issue of cork vs modern gasket material, and replacing the factory bolts with studs and a nut fastener. Does any one have experience with both and the reasons they prefer one or the other? I also have heard that it is possible to do the pan gasket without pulling the motor. Any one actually done it and did it save any time? Finally I plan to do both the front and rear main seal at the same time. Any other suggestions for maintainence that I may hace missed
Paul
1980 Euro S Red/Blk/Lea
Paul
1980 Euro S Red/Blk/Lea
#2
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If there are lots of things to clean and seal and otherwise refresh, you will save time and energy in the end by pulling the engine and doing it all at once. Give you a chance to clean everything else in the engine bay too. That said, you'll find that original wiring and hoses get hard and even crispy with over 30 years of life, so make sure you are ready when weak stuff gives up during engine removal.
The oil pan gasket can be replaced with engine in car, but it requires removal of the crossmember underneath, the one that holds the engine up. Search for how-to threads and instructions on motor mount replacement, basically the access steps needed to get to the pan. Add in starter and clutch slave removal, and you'll be able to get the pan off with sockets and a flex-head 10mm GearWrench (or lots of patience, no arthritis, etc, with a regular 10mm combo wrench...).
I put a cork composite gasket in and it's been great for 6+ years now, using the original hardware. Read up on the silicone gasket a,d the stud kit. Lots of folks like them, with only a few reporting problems. It wasn't a convenient option when I did mine, and the composite gasket was. No regrets, and no reason to think it won't outlast me.
The oil pan gasket can be replaced with engine in car, but it requires removal of the crossmember underneath, the one that holds the engine up. Search for how-to threads and instructions on motor mount replacement, basically the access steps needed to get to the pan. Add in starter and clutch slave removal, and you'll be able to get the pan off with sockets and a flex-head 10mm GearWrench (or lots of patience, no arthritis, etc, with a regular 10mm combo wrench...).
I put a cork composite gasket in and it's been great for 6+ years now, using the original hardware. Read up on the silicone gasket a,d the stud kit. Lots of folks like them, with only a few reporting problems. It wasn't a convenient option when I did mine, and the composite gasket was. No regrets, and no reason to think it won't outlast me.
#4
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There's glue in there isn't there?
#5
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The gasket I bought way back when was a composite cork/rubber filler IIRC. I'd have to go find where I got it, but suspect it was from now-deceased Devek along with the motor mounts at one of their Devek Days events.