S4ordie

While the engine is out I'd also check the rod bearings, all of them, and replace the rod nuts with new after doing so.

Other things, install an oil pan spacer and new gasket after installing an early, longer oil pickup.

17prospective buyer

Thanks for the input guys. I have till summer/late summer to get the motor back in and running perfectly, time is not really a big issue. I'm still going to move forward with the motor pull. I have approx. $600 coming to me from income taxes, $365/semester for the Ontario 30% off tuition grant, and $500 coming to me from a buddy i loaned money to a while ago... I have $3000 still in my bank from work, and this i'm hoping will not be tapped for this project as it is for college.

I have a little question about the removal process. Ok so i'm up to the part where i remove the clutch slave cylinder, starter cables, and clutch housing cover. I'm following the 32V removal procedure from the WSM however the procedure used an auto car and basically says to remove the flex plate bolts, loosen the bearing sleeve clamp, and push the flex plate assy. rearwards to disconnect it from the flywheel. Well, how would i go about disconnecting the clutch from the flywheel? Do i loosen the clutch disc housing hex bolts and loosen the bearing sleeve clamp then just push the assembly rearwards to disconnect it from the flywheel/pressure plate?

S4ordie: Do you mean the oil pan spacer kit from 928MS and a pickup assembly from a 78-84 OB? Does year matter?

Rob Edwards

If you have good oil pressure now when at temp, using the proper weight oil, I would check the 2/6 rod bearings (and replace the nuts..) , if they're ok, leave the rest of it alone.

Not to pee in the lemonade, but Carl's pan spacer and an OB pickup is $262, but then you need a lightweight starter ($250ish, unless you want to buy a cheap Ebay knockoff, which is $125 + $250 for its replacement). That's $500 just for those two pieces. Important pieces, but 1/3 of your available funds. Please (!) keep the $3K for college, that money is an investment in your future earnings potential. $3K on Porsche parts is $3K pissed down the drain. Ask me how I know.


On the clutch removal bit- you need to shim the pressure plate, undo the shaft coupler bolts, unbolt the PP to flywheel bolts in a criss-cross pattern, and drop the clutch pack out before you can separate the belllhousing from the engine. There are a couple of good threads on clutch pack removal.

17prospective buyer

The oil pressure gauge in an S4 is in bar correct? I had about 2.5 bar at idle and obviously it jumps up to around 6 or 7 when revved. 2.5 bar would translate to about 37PSI at idle and pressure peaks of about 100PSI.

I think i will invest in the necessities like TB/WP, and intake refresh items that will spruce up performance in a 24 year old engine. For injectors would i be good to get them cleaned? I noticed perusing through eBay that there is a set of red new type Bosch injectors for about $300 with the seals. Wouldn't new type injectors (identical flow rate/LBS per hour) be a good bang for the buck item?

stealth

You can send your injectors to WitchHunter Performance and get them cleaned, flow matched and new O-rings for well under $200; they turn them around in a couple of weeks. That's probably just as good as new ones with the same flow and you can spend the $100 on something else.

rgs944

I would sure go with the Ford injectors. Look for Ford Mark ll injectors. I picked mine up brand new for cheap. If I remember right about $140 for the set. Heck it might have been under $100, I just know it was dirt cheap for a very good Bosch product. Just don't tell them you are buying them for a Porsche. Say they are going on your grandmas car. Then you will have brand new injectors with a better spray pattern for less money.

namasgt

For injectors don't have the old ones rebuilt, their useless, I wasted my money rebuilding the old ones. Buy brand new ones, an old injector is just an old injector, rebuilding them wont make them brand new. Buy a set of new type III Bosch injectors. They come in all plastic grey color body and about 170 for a new set of 8 from Blue Oval racing. Problem is you have to cut grooves to fit the locking clips on. Not very hard to do with correct tools.

You cant really tell the condition of the head gasket until you take the heads off. It depends on how often coolant was changed and what type of coolant was used. Not sure if what your using is the correct one.
My engine had 94000 miles on it. One of the head gaskets had 10 holes in it from corrosion.... like I said you can't tell the condition until they fail or until you take the head off.

I would encourage you to spend your money on school, you need to focus your time and resources on your education not toys. You can play with cars later when you settle down and become stable.

I bought my S4 in winter of 2008 at 22 while taking classes at University as an ME major. Needless to say within only 4 weeks of ownership the engine got damaged from coolant getting in the cylinders during an intake refresh, breaking #8 cylinder Junking the engine.... I graduated on summer of 2009 but finished the engine work in fall of 2010. I pretty much spent most of my time during school and ALL of my time after graduation to finish this engine rebuilt, sourcing a good block wasn't easy. I did learn a lot, but will never get my time or money back. Spend your youth on something else other than cars especially a 928....


I am not saying that you will screw it all up and get in some big trouble. But if time would have gone back I would have spent my time on something else, cars will always be around to play with later.

17prospective buyer

rgs944--- Injectors like these? So they are a Bosch made injector used on Ford V8's? The ones i linked to are 30LB'ers mind you, they should work fine though.

Bill Ball

So, you have $1465 to spend on this, right? I mean you're not spending any of that $1465 on food or other living expenses, right? And that's including the $500 your buddy owes you. Hope he pays you. So, $1465.

LEAVE THE MOTOR IN THE CAR! You don't have enough money to do more than Cosmo Kramer suggested.

What prompted you to think you need to pull the motor? I've beat the living crap out of mine for years and still have no reason to pull it. Do a compression check. If the results are good, leave it alone. If the results are bad, leave it alone - you don't have enough money to fix it. If the motor seems like it is not running properly, focus on maintenance, including the items Cosmo mentioned and other standard things like plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor. You will be out of money at that point (wait till you price plug wires, cap and rotor!), but your car should run better.

Forget anything you've ever heard about porting and polishing and thin head gaskets. That does not apply to this motor. You will make the car run worse if you try this stuff.

rgs944

It's been a while since I purchased them so a do a search. If I remember right I might have gotten the 24lbs ones. You do not need any bigger unless you are pushing a lot of air into the engine. I hope also you are reconsidering pulling the engine. If its not broke, don't fix it. There are plenty of things that are likely broke or soon to be broke. Your engine is not one of them. Take care of the usuall things already mentioned and you will be fine. If you try to build a brand new engine expect to spend about 7K to 10k. If you do the stuff really needed you may get by with $1500 if you do it smart. In the end you will have almost the same thing when you put the foot on the pedal.

17prospective buyer

So in other words, wait till i get a steady cash flow before sinking money into it. Roger that.

Bill Ball

That's affirmative. At this point, do what's needed.