Stereo constant power connection from where? And cutting into inner door panel.
#1
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Stereo constant power connection from where? And cutting into inner door panel.
Ok so I have searched and found many threads on this, but none with my question.
Since I'm putting in a new alpine deck with a 4 x 50w mosfet amp which I'm sure draws much more current than the factory unit, should I run a new constant power line from the battery, from the CE panel, tap into the power for the factory amp that will be disconnected or just use the power wires that supply the factory deck?
I don't want to risk melting any wires that may not be designed for the possible current draw of a new deck.
This would be the constant power wire in question, not the accessory wire.
Oh and, do I need to worry about hitting anything when I cut into the inner door panel to fit my new speakers? I don't plan on sticking a jig saw or anything in there, I will be gentle.
Since I'm putting in a new alpine deck with a 4 x 50w mosfet amp which I'm sure draws much more current than the factory unit, should I run a new constant power line from the battery, from the CE panel, tap into the power for the factory amp that will be disconnected or just use the power wires that supply the factory deck?
I don't want to risk melting any wires that may not be designed for the possible current draw of a new deck.
This would be the constant power wire in question, not the accessory wire.
Oh and, do I need to worry about hitting anything when I cut into the inner door panel to fit my new speakers? I don't plan on sticking a jig saw or anything in there, I will be gentle.
#2
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Do you still have access to the factory power from the amp alongside the passenger seat?
That wire is sufficient...4 x 50 isn't that much of a change
IF you want a check assurance, run a larger gauge power line direct from the battery to the front, with an inline fuse somewhere along the trail..closer to the battery the better.
That wire is sufficient...4 x 50 isn't that much of a change
IF you want a check assurance, run a larger gauge power line direct from the battery to the front, with an inline fuse somewhere along the trail..closer to the battery the better.
#3
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Do you still have access to the factory power from the amp alongside the passenger seat?
That wire is sufficient...4 x 50 isn't that much of a change
IF you want a check assurance, run a larger gauge power line direct from the battery to the front, with an inline fuse somewhere along the trail..closer to the battery the better.
That wire is sufficient...4 x 50 isn't that much of a change
IF you want a check assurance, run a larger gauge power line direct from the battery to the front, with an inline fuse somewhere along the trail..closer to the battery the better.
#5
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No, just the deck, 126bt. Running the speakers off the head unit.
#6
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The factory cable is sufficient.. I have done countless stereo installs ( back in the day...and soon)
Be cautious in your door panels there are electrical wires there, I suggest you remove the panels entirely before you attempt mods there.
BTW love your avatar.....
Be cautious in your door panels there are electrical wires there, I suggest you remove the panels entirely before you attempt mods there.
BTW love your avatar.....
#7
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Sorry the deck is 50 x 4 max or 18 x 4 rms.
http://www.crutchfield.ca/Alpine_CDE...500cde126b.htm
I never new about that 45 x 4 amp, looks interesting.
http://www.crutchfield.ca/Alpine_CDE...500cde126b.htm
I never new about that 45 x 4 amp, looks interesting.
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#9
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Take the door panel off and you can see what space you have - and what wiring is where - the main thing to miss is the window - make sure you have room - check with the window down...before its too late
Alan
Alan
#10
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I use this harness and two red wires
1 is key-on power and one is constant so when I turn the key off the screen retracts and turns off.
I hope this helps
BTW the door panel is easy to remove to work on the speakers and a large JL crossover will fit where the factory x-over was
after the screws are trimmed off. I stuck mine to the panel with gobs of silicone so it can be removed later if needed.
1 is key-on power and one is constant so when I turn the key off the screen retracts and turns off.
I hope this helps
BTW the door panel is easy to remove to work on the speakers and a large JL crossover will fit where the factory x-over was
after the screws are trimmed off. I stuck mine to the panel with gobs of silicone so it can be removed later if needed.
Last edited by 928mac; 02-29-2012 at 01:05 AM.
#11
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Thanks Brad, those pics will help. And Alan, the magnets are not deeper than the factory speakers, just a larger diameter, so they won't protrude into the door.
Hopefully I will get the door panels off tonight.
Hopefully I will get the door panels off tonight.