928 1988 S4 Idle, Stall, Stalls, Dies - help needed
02-06-2012, 03:33 PM
#18
from another thread..."1988 928 Stalling below 1200 RPM-HELP!!
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My 1988 928 is stalling below 1200 rpm. Otherwise the car runs perfectly. My mechanic has checked both brains, changed the crank trigger, changed all the hoses under the manifold, changed the throttle switch, changed the injectors, changed the crank shaft and he told me it is not the temp 2 sensor or anything easy. Posche 928 Intl is telling him the car needs a new engine but he says no way. Has anyone dealt with this type of issue or does anyone have any leads to help us. Fortunately my mechanic is an honest guy and he is trying to help me even though he spent an immeasurable amount of time working on this. He suspects it may be the shielding on the crank trigger harness and that is what he is checking next. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time. "
Laurie , What you need to confirm is if the engine crankshaft bearing clearance is worn so badly that you need a new engine. Before you spend all the time and money that the poster above has trying to" fix " a dead engine.
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My 1988 928 is stalling below 1200 rpm. Otherwise the car runs perfectly. My mechanic has checked both brains, changed the crank trigger, changed all the hoses under the manifold, changed the throttle switch, changed the injectors, changed the crank shaft and he told me it is not the temp 2 sensor or anything easy. Posche 928 Intl is telling him the car needs a new engine but he says no way. Has anyone dealt with this type of issue or does anyone have any leads to help us. Fortunately my mechanic is an honest guy and he is trying to help me even though he spent an immeasurable amount of time working on this. He suspects it may be the shielding on the crank trigger harness and that is what he is checking next. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time. "
Laurie , What you need to confirm is if the engine crankshaft bearing clearance is worn so badly that you need a new engine. Before you spend all the time and money that the poster above has trying to" fix " a dead engine.
11-13-2012, 05:29 AM
#19
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When I bought my S4, the seller mentioned it sometimes had an issue when it idles. I didn't experience it much in the beginning, it'd only happen maybe once a week. I'm driving it every day and now it's happening multiple times a day. I will come up to a stop sign or stop light, or be sitting in a parking lot and it will just die. I put it in park, turn it off and back on, and it starts up like a champ. I've figured out that if I keep the break pressed in and my foot on the gas, I can get through without it completely stalling. It's working but hardly what I want to be doing as a long term solution.
I searched the 928 forum and found a few threads that reference replacing the 53B relay. It sounds like a good place to start, and surprisingly inexpensive. I've ordered a few 53B relays and will install one when it arrives. I believe in having spares, so I picked up a few.
I'm wondering if anyone has any other thoughts or ideas, or perhaps a different path I may consider if the relay doesn't resolve the issue.
Any help would be appreciated. And by the way, this site rocks
Laurie
1988 928 S4 Granite Green
I searched the 928 forum and found a few threads that reference replacing the 53B relay. It sounds like a good place to start, and surprisingly inexpensive. I've ordered a few 53B relays and will install one when it arrives. I believe in having spares, so I picked up a few.
I'm wondering if anyone has any other thoughts or ideas, or perhaps a different path I may consider if the relay doesn't resolve the issue.
Any help would be appreciated. And by the way, this site rocks
Laurie
1988 928 S4 Granite Green
Lee
1988 928 S4 SE
11-13-2012, 05:50 AM
#20
Rennlist Member
Your S4 SE is a 5 speed, so you shouldn't have the flex plate/thrust bearing problems that the auto have.
Your SE is a non cat car, check what the idle CO reading was on the printout when the MOT was last carried out. It should be 1 to 1.5%. Otherwise the car may not idle properly.
There are other possible causes of the cutting out of course, but get the idle CO set up correctly first. There's a slotted brass adjuster for idle CO above the centre of the wooden cover over thr fuse/relay panel.
Turn several turns clockwise to richen the mixture if required. Stop tuning when the idle CO stops rising, or you may damage the pot which has no end stops. If you can't get up to 1% then the MAF needs replacing with a rebuilt unit. I can supply.
Your SE is a non cat car, check what the idle CO reading was on the printout when the MOT was last carried out. It should be 1 to 1.5%. Otherwise the car may not idle properly.
There are other possible causes of the cutting out of course, but get the idle CO set up correctly first. There's a slotted brass adjuster for idle CO above the centre of the wooden cover over thr fuse/relay panel.
Turn several turns clockwise to richen the mixture if required. Stop tuning when the idle CO stops rising, or you may damage the pot which has no end stops. If you can't get up to 1% then the MAF needs replacing with a rebuilt unit. I can supply.
11-13-2012, 05:57 AM
#21
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Your S4 SE is a 5 speed, so you shouldn't have the flex plate/thrust bearing problems that the auto have.
Your SE is a non cat car, check what the idle CO reading was on the printout when the MOT was last carried out. It should be 1 to 1.5%. Otherwise the car may not idle properly.
There are other possible causes of the cutting out of course, but get the idle CO set up correctly first. There's a slotted brass adjuster for idle CO above the centre of the wooden cover over thr fuse/relay panel.
Turn several turns clockwise to richen the mixture if required. Stop tuning when the idle CO stops rising, or you may damage the pot which has no end stops. If you can't get up to 1% then the MAF needs replacing with a rebuilt unit. I can supply.
Your SE is a non cat car, check what the idle CO reading was on the printout when the MOT was last carried out. It should be 1 to 1.5%. Otherwise the car may not idle properly.
There are other possible causes of the cutting out of course, but get the idle CO set up correctly first. There's a slotted brass adjuster for idle CO above the centre of the wooden cover over thr fuse/relay panel.
Turn several turns clockwise to richen the mixture if required. Stop tuning when the idle CO stops rising, or you may damage the pot which has no end stops. If you can't get up to 1% then the MAF needs replacing with a rebuilt unit. I can supply.
Great info, thanks, will check it out this weekend and let you know the outcome.
Cheers
Lee
11-13-2012, 08:05 AM
#22
Pro
could be that your air filter is upside down, proven to cause running rich and stalling in 3 cars over here haha
don't just swap your air filter around, but if the fat part is not facing up, I would start there with a new air filter.
Could be a vacuum leak if idling is rough and then dies.
don't just swap your air filter around, but if the fat part is not facing up, I would start there with a new air filter.
Could be a vacuum leak if idling is rough and then dies.
