Pic's of my new suspension
11-27-2011, 01:37 PM
#32
Nordschleife Master
What were the design goals? I'm especially curious about the rear upper arms. Extra camber adjustment, I see, but is the need more than you could get stock?
I'm concerned that the "steroid" blocks on the swaybar move around under load. Carl's product for rear tie-down and droplink adjustment works well.
Very pretty work.
I'm concerned that the "steroid" blocks on the swaybar move around under load. Carl's product for rear tie-down and droplink adjustment works well.
Very pretty work.
11-27-2011, 01:40 PM
#33
WOW, can say I have never seen one that clean.
Well done.
Well done.
11-27-2011, 01:45 PM
#34
Race Director
Joe
Impressive quality in EVERYTHING....not to mention how immaculately clean everything is...serious SERIOUS attention to detail
I have a ??? about the rear suspension....why change the upper link? The stock suspension design works really well....
One more thought....I had the same exact drop links as you.....the actual link itself is not strong enough and WILL bend if preloaded heavy and a hard impact to one side....like mine did....
Impressive quality in EVERYTHING....not to mention how immaculately clean everything is...serious SERIOUS attention to detail
I have a ??? about the rear suspension....why change the upper link? The stock suspension design works really well....
One more thought....I had the same exact drop links as you.....the actual link itself is not strong enough and WILL bend if preloaded heavy and a hard impact to one side....like mine did....
11-27-2011, 03:10 PM
#37
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks guys for the thumbs up 
S4ordie > ok, I re-installed some in honor of you
Jwise > pic of cosmline removal kit , the acetone
was for removal of grease, the alum parts
were glass beaded & tumbled & cleared ..
Ruf965 > the shocks were rebuilt & revalued at P.S.I.
and the Hypercoils & tenders were bought
there as well > http://performanceshock.com/
The spring perches & threaded collars came
from Carl (needed extra machining) to make them fit
Danglerb > The lift pads are O.E. BMW parts (got carried away)
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AW33&mospid= 47728&btnr=51_4015&hg=51&fg=80 < the part is #27
I'm in the BMW club and have done some other fun stuff
with my brother,
http://www.2002twinturbo.com/
& http://www.38csi.com/ < under construction
we used them there so I thought they
would tiddy up the rough metal factory pad area's
Ninespud > I didn't use to have OCD till I started working at
my new job > http://www.willhoitautorestoration.com/index.php
Bertranddaoust > I plan on using it as much as possible, clear weather permitting
TV > The second spring is called a "tender" goggle it, they
will explain it better than me
All the top rubber parts are O.E.
The metal cupped piece is a cut down O.E.
piece -- old springs 5 + inches wide -- new
springs 2.5" wide
Chuck S. > Yes Simard made the rear upper arms, I wanted
them because they can make super fine adjustments
by only turning them with your fingers. The factory
type is notchy at best, you wrestle with a big wrench
and get jerky adjustments.
I had my alignment done by "Rocky" I was referred
to him by Greg Brown (awesome job) Rocky was amazed
at how easy it was to get an extremely precise measurement/change while setting the camber.
He's not making them in quantity.
He's going to make some alum front swaybar arms (hint)
for me, the black steel ones on ther now are something I
cobbled together so I could get the car on the road again
and wait for the good alum ones later..
The front lower brace was a parts bin project, Not Carl's
I got all the parts from this place >
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Cone-Spacers,649.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Swedge...eim,53184.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search...d-RH-male.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search-175-6046RH.html , < there is a left & right !
$50.00 ! for everthing
The front swaybar was a parts bin project to, all parts came from this place >
http://www.1speedway.com/index.htm
http://www.1speedway.com/Swaybar_Arms.htm
http://www.1speedway.com/Swaybars.htm
GlenL > Design goals ? just have fun ! and prep the car for the
7-ltr motor
Iceman > Thanks, I'll definately keep an eye on them.
A tip on wider front wheels, I had my fronts widened to
10.25" wide X 18" originally 9.5" w/65et now it has a 8.5" backspace
265-40 Mich PS2
Rears are 11'' X 18" w/52et w/ 295-35 Mich PS2
look at the picture taken inside/front wheelwell, there is an extra piece
(alum, painted blk)
I unbolted the lower portion of the fender, pulled it out 3/4" -- reattached
it & made the filler piece to fill in the open gap.
You really cant tell the fender is wider from looking at it, it just covers
up the extra tire nicely
S4ordie > ok, I re-installed some in honor of you
Jwise > pic of cosmline removal kit , the acetone
was for removal of grease, the alum parts
were glass beaded & tumbled & cleared ..
Ruf965 > the shocks were rebuilt & revalued at P.S.I.
and the Hypercoils & tenders were bought
there as well > http://performanceshock.com/
The spring perches & threaded collars came
from Carl (needed extra machining) to make them fit
Danglerb > The lift pads are O.E. BMW parts (got carried away)
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AW33&mospid= 47728&btnr=51_4015&hg=51&fg=80 < the part is #27
I'm in the BMW club and have done some other fun stuff
with my brother,
http://www.2002twinturbo.com/
& http://www.38csi.com/ < under construction
we used them there so I thought they
would tiddy up the rough metal factory pad area's
Ninespud > I didn't use to have OCD till I started working at
my new job > http://www.willhoitautorestoration.com/index.php
Bertranddaoust > I plan on using it as much as possible, clear weather permitting
TV > The second spring is called a "tender" goggle it, they
will explain it better than me
All the top rubber parts are O.E.
The metal cupped piece is a cut down O.E.
piece -- old springs 5 + inches wide -- new
springs 2.5" wide
Chuck S. > Yes Simard made the rear upper arms, I wanted
them because they can make super fine adjustments
by only turning them with your fingers. The factory
type is notchy at best, you wrestle with a big wrench
and get jerky adjustments.
I had my alignment done by "Rocky" I was referred
to him by Greg Brown (awesome job) Rocky was amazed
at how easy it was to get an extremely precise measurement/change while setting the camber.
He's not making them in quantity.
He's going to make some alum front swaybar arms (hint)
for me, the black steel ones on ther now are something I
cobbled together so I could get the car on the road again
and wait for the good alum ones later..
The front lower brace was a parts bin project, Not Carl's
I got all the parts from this place >
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Cone-Spacers,649.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Swedge...eim,53184.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search...d-RH-male.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search-175-6046RH.html , < there is a left & right !
$50.00 ! for everthing
The front swaybar was a parts bin project to, all parts came from this place >
http://www.1speedway.com/index.htm
http://www.1speedway.com/Swaybar_Arms.htm
http://www.1speedway.com/Swaybars.htm
GlenL > Design goals ? just have fun ! and prep the car for the
7-ltr motor
Iceman > Thanks, I'll definately keep an eye on them.
A tip on wider front wheels, I had my fronts widened to
10.25" wide X 18" originally 9.5" w/65et now it has a 8.5" backspace
265-40 Mich PS2
Rears are 11'' X 18" w/52et w/ 295-35 Mich PS2
look at the picture taken inside/front wheelwell, there is an extra piece
(alum, painted blk)
I unbolted the lower portion of the fender, pulled it out 3/4" -- reattached
it & made the filler piece to fill in the open gap.
You really cant tell the fender is wider from looking at it, it just covers
up the extra tire nicely
11-27-2011, 03:27 PM
#38
Rennlist Member
Joe-that's awesome! Thanks for sharing your cleaning secrets. Can't tell the difference between new and old parts.
Last edited by Andy Kay; 11-28-2011 at 08:25 AM.
11-27-2011, 04:13 PM
#40
Rennlist Member
Joe – I want your picture on my pajamas… Incredible work; especially the extra time/money spent on replating all the steel bits—like on pic 73. At the risk of sounding like a Russian judge, I’d spend $3 and paint the bug juice filler tube satin white with plastic paint with a new cap or replace it. It’s just an eye sore next to all that beautiful work. I do have OCD (and in fact, would change it to CDO just so it’s in order).
Last edited by NoVector; 11-27-2011 at 04:46 PM.
11-28-2011, 09:01 AM
#43
Burning Brakes
Joe, your picture gallery is amazing. Thanks for documenting your work so thoroughly. Amazing to see the level of detail involved. Wonderful, wonderful work and car. Stunning.
11-28-2011, 05:37 PM
#45
Racer
Really very nice job. A really magnificent job.
But one thing to say. The helper spring should be under the main spring. It is like 0,5% more efficient but it is that way, it is suppose to be. The fact is, the spring is considered to be half supended half not. Helper spring is like half the weight of main spring. So it is more efficient under the main spring.
I am curious of the diameter of roll bar?
Best
Puyi
But one thing to say. The helper spring should be under the main spring. It is like 0,5% more efficient but it is that way, it is suppose to be. The fact is, the spring is considered to be half supended half not. Helper spring is like half the weight of main spring. So it is more efficient under the main spring.
I am curious of the diameter of roll bar?
Best
Puyi