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Leaking Oil Filler Neck

Old 05-20-2018, 02:42 PM
  #16  
merchauser
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thanks for the info and replies; but can anyone comment on using an earlier metal neck on my 1990??

and, what is this??? a complete block off plate??

Old 05-20-2018, 02:49 PM
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NoVector
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Originally Posted by merchauser
bump
Originally Posted by merchauser

was this question ever answered? been searching about this...…


I put a metal neck on my GTS in 2015 and so far no issues. As you can see I did modify it to fit my breather hoses. The 2nd picture is mid-assembly and as you can see, plenty of clearance.

EDIT: I should have mentioned as Greg did below that I also used a 928 Intl oil baffle. I tried to use a 928 Motorsport oil baffle and a 928 Intl oil control plate with gaskets (in the 3rd picture) but it was too thick and not enough clearance. I used Drei-bond too. In hind-sight, I just would have bought Greg's and been done with it.









Last edited by NoVector; 05-20-2018 at 05:04 PM.
Old 05-20-2018, 04:08 PM
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GregBBRD
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The metal neck fits fine.

it does not have the built in louvered baffle, you will have to find the NLA metal louvered baffle, also.

Just use the original neck with the stock rubber seal. A bead of Drei Bond will keep it from ever leaking again.

If you are interested in improving the oil separation to reduce oil getting to the intake, install one of my lower baffles under this.

Everything you need, in one shipment. Comes with Drei Bond and a new rubber seal.
Old 05-20-2018, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by merchauser
thanks for the info and replies; but can anyone comment on using an earlier metal neck on my 1990??

and, what is this??? a complete block off plate??

Appears so.

No idea what that was made for, on a stock engine....

But it would certainly stop the oil seapage
Old 05-20-2018, 08:24 PM
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merchauser
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Just use the original neck with the stock rubber seal. A bead of Drei Bond will keep it from ever leaking again.

If you are interested in improving the oil separation to reduce oil getting to the intake, install one of my lower baffles under this.

Everything you need, in one shipment. Comes with Drei Bond and a new rubber seal.
Greg, sounds like a plan; thanks.

can I do this without major surgery?? is there a simple method?
Old 05-21-2018, 09:23 AM
  #21  
FredR
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Originally Posted by merchauser
can I do this without major surgery?? is there a simple method?
It is simple enough when the inlet manifold is off.
Old 05-21-2018, 10:40 AM
  #22  
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It is simple enough when the inlet manifold is off.
not the answer I was hoping for...lol no "need" for intake refresh at this time,
so has anyone had good success without removing or even loosening intake?
Old 05-21-2018, 10:55 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by merchauser
... success without removing or even loosening intake?
Not possible. Intake needs to at least be up and moved back and that approach leaves little space for cleaning and application of ‘sealing goo.’
Old 05-21-2018, 12:25 PM
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Not possible. Intake needs to at least be up and moved back and that approach leaves little space for cleaning and application of ‘sealing goo.’
was afraid of that!!! guess I will have to wait for another day......
Old 05-21-2018, 01:15 PM
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See Dwayne's thread: http://www.dwaynesgarage.norcal928.o...aterbridge.htm
Old 05-21-2018, 02:12 PM
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well that is certainly encouraging!! can someone else chime in? seems that a lot of folks are saying this
can't be done, but clearly this write up says otherwise
Old 05-21-2018, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by merchauser
well that is certainly encouraging!! can someone else chime in? seems that a lot of folks are saying this
can't be done, but clearly this write up says otherwise
First, it depends upon the precise tolerances of the heads, bridge and intake. On some 928s it is possible to get the bridge out without disturbing the intake. On some 928s it is not. I do not know if this is a model-year thing or just car-to-car variation. I can say that i distinctly remember a ‘90GT on which it was not possible.

Second, I dis-recommend breaking loose or torquing Alan bolts with a ball-end Alan wrench or socket unless there is no alternative. Round-off the head and you are screwed.

Last, loosening the intake sufficiently to lift it up and back an inch takes roughly an hour-and-a-half or less. On the other hand I would only do this if I knew that the gaskets weren’t 25 years old (edit: unless I had new gaskets on-hand, which I usually do.)

Last edited by worf928; 05-21-2018 at 10:02 PM.
Old 05-21-2018, 10:02 PM
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Follow-up: IMO: Macgyvering-out the waterbridge, getting it back in, sealed and properly torqued, rather than scooching-back the intake to get to the filler neck doesn’t take sufficiently-less time (if any) and opens the risk of screwing-up the waterbidge bolts.
Old 05-21-2018, 11:04 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by worf928
Follow-up: IMO: Macgyvering-out the waterbridge, getting it back in, sealed and properly torqued, rather than scooching-back the intake to get to the filler neck doesn’t take sufficiently-less time (if any) and opens the risk of screwing-up the waterbidge bolts.
I agree 100%.

I tried this, years ago....once....and I'm never going to try it again.
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Old 05-22-2018, 12:12 AM
  #30  
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Agree with Dave and Greg. I tried to follow Dwayne's DIY a few years ago. I couldn't get the allen wrench to enter the head of the bolt straight. I sensed I was going to regret trying to force it...but not before the allen wrench rubbed paint off the intake runner. Had zero issues removing the water bridge with the intake off. Another example of having to remove half a dozen things to get to the thing you're trying to fix. There are moments I think it is nuts, but more often it's part of the charm and challenge of owning a 928. If yours is really spewing oil and it's not your daily and you have a garage I'd start the top end refresh. I'm discovering that things weren't as "nice" as they seemed under the hood. Unless you have documentation of some major services - the following are literally crumbling or will when you look at them: Knock sensors and connectors, Crank Position Sensor and connector, and Hall sensor connector. It's been an eye opening experience - 928s in good cosmetic condition are very good at hiding neglected and aged electrical and soft parts that needed to be replaced 10-15 years ago.

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