When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Mike - be careful - you may not get what you think you are getting.
A 200A alternator is an alternator that can provide up to 200A at high RPM.
You don't need it.
What you need is an alternator that can provide more amps at low (idle) RPM. There are at least a few 200A alternators that will provide less than a stock Bosch alt at idle - even though they can provide ~200A at high RPM...
Alan
My custom wound alternator does not put out as much as the stock one at low RPM.
Herman - do your foglights and driving lights actually work correctly?
Foglights on with low beam only - (when switched on),
Driving lights on with highbeams always...
(or did you already switch to the ROW foglight configuration?)
I have not changed to the ROW configuration.
I have not changed to the ROW configuration.
What I initially reported as the issue with the head light being stuck in High Beam (they wouldn't switch back to low beam) when the fog light switch is in the on position appears to have changed as follows;
A] LS (Light switch) on 1;
FS (fog switch) on = DL (driving lights) on
FS in off = DL off
B] LS on 2;
Headlights at LB
FS on = DL on
FS off = DL & FL off
C] LS on 2;
Headlights at HB
FS off = FL on
FS off = FL on
D] LS on 2;
While HL are on switched from HB to LB
FS off = FL off & DL off
FS on = FL off & DL on
As I reported initially this is where the HL would be stuck in HB but now the HL’s do switch from Hi to Low and back however now I get this
HLLB on = DL on & FL of
Switch from HLLB to HLHB
HLHB on = FL on & DL off
I have no idea why the behavioral pattern has changed all I have done is drive the car around for an hour or so last night to observe the improved light. I must say the combination of having the HB/LB on at the same time produces enough light on any dark street to land a 747.
I had a large new SUV coming at me with its HID lights on HB and bright low mounted ground effects I had to flash him only one time and he turned of his all his brightest lights immediately.
ROW Foglights stay on with high beams - USA do not. This is accomplished with a bridge in place of the USA versions secondary foglight relay.
Alan
I'll check to see if I have the bridge in there perhaps the PO did put it in.
I never paid that much attention to this as I was flying blind before my H4 install
My custom wound alternator does not put out as much as the stock one at low RPM.
I'm running a stock altenator without the engine running I can see quite drop on the volt meter when I light up the HB/LB combination.
Driving around last night at real low speeds watching Christmas Lights in the area I couldn't see the needle drop any when switching my Headlights from LB to my LB/HB light combination set up.
Last edited by Herman K; Dec 28, 2011 at 03:06 PM.
I'll check to see if I have the bridge in there perhaps the PO did put it in.
I never paid that much attention to this as I was flying blind before my H4 install
Whats this bridge connect in there? That'd be nice to do on the S4..
Herman - not sure what you are telling me makes sense... I think you have the fog & aux headlights mixed up...
The foglights (FL) are the inside set of lights on a USA car
The auxilliary headlights or (commonly called driving lights) are the outside set
Aux headlights should always come on with the highbeams, including in flash mode - even if the pods are down
Foglights only come on with the fogswitch on and lights in marker position and also headlight position but only when the low beams are on - when high beams are on they are supposed to go off.
(unless you have the ROW Fog mode enabled).
Think this through - then check it again - which lights are on when...
Herman - dug this old one up as someone asked about it... turn signal blinks was likely just a burned out turn signal bulb...
Previous question on sealed relays - Hella makes some good ones with a nice weatherpak like seal. I like them but they are really bulky and 2 would be a very tight fit in the buckets...
I don't think weatherproof is really needed here... I've been running for a while with normal relays and they look fine (like they have always been dry)... now YMMV because we are talking Phoenix here - dry climate, doesn't rain that often... but when it does it REALLY RAINS - I drive in all weathers - so they have occasionally seen just spectacular amounts of water.
I think I have some photo's of the mounting yokes, fuse/relay blocks & harnesses thay I made up... not sure I have any of the install... see what I can find - it was all a very tight fit BUT is as easy to access and change relays/fuses as to change bulbs - just 3 easy to reach screws and no need to contort yourself into the footwell...
So here are some photos of the construction details for mine:
These yokes attach to the top of the H4 moveable frame to hold the relays close to the side of the lens pod about half way down - its widest here. They are installed so the top of the relay cans & top of the fuses point to the back of the car with the headlights up. They are also angled to point inwards towards the point at the back of the headlight pods - this is required for fit.
I'll take pictures of it installed next time I take the pod covers off...
Thread Resurrection.
Along with my WP I plan on doing this over the long weekend and thought I would post up my solution to allow both the high and low beams to run together but to be able to shut them off from within the cabin as needed. Most of my driving is done on back roads and hwy driving where there's virtually no traffic or street lights so I'm hoping this will brighten up the road a bit. If this works well with the new 8" H4's then I'll probably switch over to LEDs as everything else on the car has already been switched over.
I suspect that conventional bulbs will quickly overheat with both filaments lit concurrently (sorry...). It may be fine with LEDs so long as the heat sink is adequate.
Hmm. As a teen we used to night fish off our boats using sealed beams from VW bugs running both highs and lows and never had a problem. That said if they prematurely burn out I'll report back.
I suspect that conventional bulbs will quickly overheat with both filaments lit concurrently (sorry...). It may be fine with LEDs so long as the heat sink is adequate.
For stock wattage incandescent bulbs it is OK, for higher output not so good - 2 issues - total power in the capsule can cause deformation of the base mount or even the envelope & premature failure of the shared ground connection to the filaments (depending on the bulb/filament design & power levels). The H4 (9003) bulbs are better in the first respect than the H5 (9004) as they have longer capsules with wider spaced filaments and better power dissipation to the base with no plastic to deform thermally.
Thom - I would not implement the cabin switching by adding another relay. There is a better way than that:
Instead of getting low beams on during high beam operation via the 87a connection to the high beams - I'd lose that connection & fuse altogether (I was using the fuse as a 'configuration switch' - it's not needed for protection).
Then add in a series diode to the coil feed of the low beam relay in the current configuration - then add another diode to the same coil connection and feed that from the high beam coil connection via your switch in the cabin.
I think I understand most of this..maybe. I dont do enough night driving to need to uprate the 928 lights.
FWIW some of the best lighting I drove with was on 60-70s Rover P6s. 4 x 5-3/4" sealed beams - outers H-L in 60/37.5W, inners Highs in 60w single filament. In high beam you got 4 x60 +2 x 37.5W, in Low only 2x50W. Covered a LOT of road.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
Theon Goes Full Carbon Fiber With Stunning New Build
Slideshow: Built around a carbon-bodied 964 and a naturally aspirated 4.0-liter flat-six, this bespoke commission highlights how far the restomod formula has evolved.
Tuner Is Converting Porsche 911s Into Shooting Brakes
Slideshow: A Polish Porsche specialist is moving ahead with one of the most unusual 911 conversions in recent memory: a shooting brake version of the 991-generation sports car.
This Coachbuilt Creation Is A Modern Take on the Legendary Porsche 917
Slideshow: A Porsche Carrera GT has been transformed into a one-off coachbuilt machine that blends analog supercar engineering with styling inspired by the legendary 917 race cars.
Is This Convertible Cayenne A Steal, Or A Returnless Investment?
Slideshow: A heavily modified Porsche Cayenne convertible with faux wood trim and a long list of flaws recently sold at auction for surprisingly little money.
Porsche's Top 5 Most Questionable Naming Decisions
Slideshow: For a company obsessed with engineering precision, Porsche has occasionally named its cars in ways that left even loyal enthusiasts scratching their heads.
Pogea Racing's 964 Porsche 911 Reimagination Stands Out in a Crowded Field
Slideshow: Pogea Racing's latest Porsche 964 project blends carbon-fiber construction, modern chassis upgrades, and up to 500 horsepower while keeping the air-cooled 911 experience firmly analog.
