BigAl1

Just a few hours to go to first start - assuming no problem crops up now. Had my injectors out to be professionally cleaned because 2 were barely clicking - they were mostly stuck from sitting dry so long, even though I had cleaned them 3+ years ago. So last worry was my fuel rail machining might be too loose, and have leaks at the O-rings, but the boss at Huron Fuel Injection checked and thought is was almost too tight - I'm good with that. So, today has been doing final details leading up to startup this evening after 6PM here. Verified all injectors are clicking normally, have oil pressure during cranking, and Crank/Cam sensor signals are clean with no sync loss showing during cranking. Put 10L of 92 octane in the tank and started looking for leaks in my brazed joints on the fuel lines - I put AN6 connections on all the hardlines back then - just remembered when I was underneath checking. No leaks with no pressure - good so far. Using the TunerStudio testing functions, I ran the fuel pump with the output disconnected from the RH fuel injector rail and dumping into a clear glass jar. I was looking for crud in the fuel hardlines being washed through - good thing I did as there was lots of very fine black specks in the bottom of the jar. So, did this 5-6 times, filling the jar, checking for specks, repeat until no more specks in the fuel. Then connected the input to the rails, and pressured the system - no leaks anywhere - WHEW! Set the fuel pressure to 43psi with the pump running, no injectors open though. The systems seems to take 20-30 minutes to lose pressure, and I don't have the accumulator anymore, so sounds good so far. I rolled the car out into the driveway, got it jacked up so I can slide underneath to continue filling the trans fluid, and have the rear tires off the ground so it can be put in gear once running and get the trans level up to normal. A few more things to do in the next 3 hours, then hopefully it STARTS!

Ducman82

Keep us updated!

BigAl1

After filling coolant, found the heater valve body is leaking. Had to remove it and put a short pipe in place for now. Plugs gapped at 0.045 and installed with antiseize, battery charged, MS3 set for 0deg cranking advance so I can verify timing is correct at TDC. After checking, will change it back to 10Deg BTDC, and ready for start.

BigAl1

Champagne all around! After following all the steps in the setup guide, it started on the first try, ran a little rough in the first 5 sec, then smoothed out. Got in 3 runs about 30 sec each, and in between kept adding fluid to the trans. The second run it could idle with no input from the gas pedal. The 3rd run though ended when I started to hear a knocking sound in the engine after I revved it to 2500 a couple times. After looking things over - no leaks anywhere, and reasoning that I have plenty of oil pressure and it ran fine before I pulled the engine, and I never touched the rods or main bearings, I decided to run it again, and engage the trans to check for wheel motion. Just letting the engine idle for a minute and the knocking sound faded away, so hopefully something just needed to loosen up after sitting for so long. Got it down on it's own feet and DROVE it into the garage - about 20ft ahead. Once into the garage, really could smell how rich it is running - wow. It was actually spitting wet drops from the tail pipes and splattering my wall. Overall, it sounds great, seems pretty smooth. Big day here!

Ducman82

Yay!!! Congrats! Sound alike some lifters just needed to pressurize after sitting. Mine had that nice water/soot splatter as well when the warm up enrichment curve was too high. What does the wide band say?

BigAl1

It's been one of those days where you get nothing done on the project list, but totally enjoyed playing with the car anyway! It started right up, and just a few knocking sounds that quickly went away, back it out of the garage onto the driveway, and setup for some tuning. Spent about 3 hours playing with the fueling, experimenting with SpeedDensity vs Alpha-N, and found it runs pretty good on SD with Accel Enrich turned on and adjusted at 50%. I know this is just in the driveway with no load on the engine, but still satisfying to have it start every time on the first crank, and see the results of each adjustment on the fuel table. I have my WBO2 gauge setup and reading off the LC-2, which was calibrated a couple nights ago. Got it dialed in so not too rich on startup that it waters your eyes, and revs nicely up through 4500.
It developed a small leak on a trans fluid line connection near the radiator, so suspect the fitting when it got plated had some junk on the mating faces, have to take it apart and clean surfaces. And need to get my fans running to enable cooling - I think I have the wrong pinout spec'd on the MS3, have to dig into my old notes on how I wired it.
A good day though - working out the bugs, and got that urge out of my system for a little while. Now I can start tackling the to-do list, mainly on the interior first for stereo setup, interior lighting, cleaning up messy wires, and looking at my flush console design for the next generation of it.

Ducman82

Glad to hear all is going well. Have you played with the warm up enrichment curve?

BigAl1

A little bit. I started it yesterday for my Dad on the phone from California, and had to give it a little gas to keep it running. Next time it is cold start tuning, I'll add a little back in on the After Start Enrichment and Warm Up Enrichment.

hjdh

Awesome. Keep us posted on the final steps and the wiring and of course the tuning. I think most do not understand how much head scratching is involved with putting these things together.

AOW162435

TROLL.



Andreas

BigAl1

Or something.... Post #105 is the same text, different username. At least a polite troll!

BigAl1

Ran into a snag today when I tried to get the IAC valve working. So far been running without it, and seem to have a high idle RPM (~900). So, Tunerstudio couldn't get the IAC valve to do anything, but I know I have the right output pin wired and selected because I can see a change in the voltage at the IAC connector when I change the PWN % in the test program. So, eventually found there was no +12V going to the valve - nothing going to happen without that! Ran a fused +12V feed pulled from the same source as the coils and injectors, and got the valve working! BUT, now for the oddness. After the valve works, no matter what PWM %, the speedo is showing a speed and the WBO2 system is on, even after the key is OFF. One clue is the speedo shows a different speed when I change the PWM % on the TS test setup. It's like the valve is acting like a latching relay, keeping things powered after the control power is removed. Some kind of feedback loop?
So, I rewired the power for the WBO2 gauge and the power for the IAC valve to both be on the same feed as the coils and injectors - a switched controlled relay. Now things match the instructions across the board. Still the same problem - speedo runs after IAC valve runs, and speedo and WBO2 system stay running after key is turned off. I can only see 2 sources of the problem - the IAC or the MS3X card (not made by me). If anybody has any ideas , I'm open to suggestions! This is a Bosch 2 wire IAC from a VW Jetta(?) which I cleaned before installing. It is working, but causes these other problems in my harness.

Ducman82

i would double check ALL 12v constant and switched leads. something got switched around. the IAC is controlled via ground. try running a 12v constant from jump post when you have the car going, NOT how you have it wired now.

and check you TS output settings.

Imo000

The knocking sounds was probably a hydraulic lifter that needed time to pump up from sitting. They can tap away for several minutes.

Fronkenstein

Al if you want to try a 3 pin IAC I have several ABC you can have one for the cost of postage.

Fronkenstein

PS. I plan on using your metal kit this winter