......
09-05-2011, 12:22 PM
#17
Nordschleife Master
How about adding spacers between the crossmember and the body? Then lower the ride height. Everythings the same while the engine is lower. Well, except the suspension geometry.
Just thinkin...
Just thinkin...
09-05-2011, 02:32 PM
#19
Team Owner
Sterling what exactly is the purpose of all these modifications?
If a race car the the solid mounts might be an OK thing otherwise as Greg Brown says your going to find out the next weakest part in the driveline after you anchor the engine to the mounts.
I dont think solid mounts are good for your car
If a race car the the solid mounts might be an OK thing otherwise as Greg Brown says your going to find out the next weakest part in the driveline after you anchor the engine to the mounts.
I dont think solid mounts are good for your car
09-05-2011, 02:48 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Sterling,
I'm not sure why you are headed toward solid mounts. I would worry that solid motor mounts would decrease the overall drivability of your car.
I understand lowering the engine, just not the solid mounts.
I'm not sure why you are headed toward solid mounts. I would worry that solid motor mounts would decrease the overall drivability of your car.
I understand lowering the engine, just not the solid mounts.
09-05-2011, 03:26 PM
#22
Hey Sterling -
From what I remember of the shape, I assume you can simply get a plasma cutter and cut up to the curve just before the plateau for the motor mounts. At that point, you would just cut as much as you want and then weld on a 1/8 or 1/4 inch plate to where you cut.
Then I would add the rod between the two front lower-a-arm bolts like Carl sells, and then a strengthened upper engine-bay cross member. That should make the area strong enough just incase you have to remove so much from the K-member that it becomes a bit less stiff.
This will lower the TT and put the trans at a slightly different angle. I am wondering if you are thinking of lowering the trans on its mounts to match. It does not have much to go down, and the cradle back there is not as malleable and weldable and cuttable as the front one.
Anyway - cool ideas as always Sterling.
From what I remember of the shape, I assume you can simply get a plasma cutter and cut up to the curve just before the plateau for the motor mounts. At that point, you would just cut as much as you want and then weld on a 1/8 or 1/4 inch plate to where you cut.
Then I would add the rod between the two front lower-a-arm bolts like Carl sells, and then a strengthened upper engine-bay cross member. That should make the area strong enough just incase you have to remove so much from the K-member that it becomes a bit less stiff.
This will lower the TT and put the trans at a slightly different angle. I am wondering if you are thinking of lowering the trans on its mounts to match. It does not have much to go down, and the cradle back there is not as malleable and weldable and cuttable as the front one.
Anyway - cool ideas as always Sterling.
09-05-2011, 04:14 PM
#23
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 611
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yep, those are in the plans. New cross brace to clear the airbox, and was already planning on adding some skid plates to the front tie downs.
I think that if the engine support is done correctly, then it will be stronger that they are currently... They look to be stamped steel. The lower mounted plate under the rack really strengthens the whole assembly.
I think that if the engine support is done correctly, then it will be stronger that they are currently... They look to be stamped steel. The lower mounted plate under the rack really strengthens the whole assembly.
09-05-2011, 04:17 PM
#24
Nordschleife Master
09-05-2011, 04:18 PM
#25
09-05-2011, 04:44 PM
#26
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Will the pan spacer plus lowering the motor make the pan bottom the lowest part of the undercarraige? I'm not at all suggesting you haven't thought this through. I just want to know what you've concluded.
09-05-2011, 06:10 PM
#27
Team Owner
It would suck to have a broken block from using solid mounts
I am sure with some detective work you can find motor mounts that are more solid than the Volvo mounts or the Porsche mounts for that matter
I am sure with some detective work you can find motor mounts that are more solid than the Volvo mounts or the Porsche mounts for that matter
09-05-2011, 06:44 PM
#28
Nordschleife Master
The more I follow this the more I like my crack potty idea. If you lower the crossmember the oil pan will still be behind the crossmember for bricks and such.
Reminds me of an old question I've never seen answered: At what ride height are the front lower arms horizontal?
Reminds me of an old question I've never seen answered: At what ride height are the front lower arms horizontal?
09-05-2011, 07:14 PM
#29
Rennlist Member
Sterling, I would suggest that you do this with the crossmember:
First, determine just how much of the crossmember is actually just above and even with the rack, then cut that much of the top of the cross member out with plasma or whatever, out to the moter mount area of the x-member.
Then either weld back in a plate of about 1/8 inch steel shaped to fill in the hole that is left.
Or, leave the hole and take two pieces of flat bar steel about 3/8 opr 1/2 inch thick and just wide enough to rest on the bottom flare/flange of the cross member and come up to even with the edge of the hole that you have cut in the top. This will be for both front and back of the x-member.
Then either bolt it/them in with 6 or 8 heavy bolts front and back, or weld it in as an integral part of the cross member.
With the open hole you can now get to those pesky pan bolts to change the gasket without taking the whole damn thing out, and I think it will be stiff enough to do the job it is intended for, whatever that is.
With your idea in mind I will probably do just this with one of mine in my next project where I will be utilizing some kind of deeper pan myself.
I would $hit-can the solid mount idea if I were you, for all the reasons stated.
Jerry Feather
First, determine just how much of the crossmember is actually just above and even with the rack, then cut that much of the top of the cross member out with plasma or whatever, out to the moter mount area of the x-member.
Then either weld back in a plate of about 1/8 inch steel shaped to fill in the hole that is left.
Or, leave the hole and take two pieces of flat bar steel about 3/8 opr 1/2 inch thick and just wide enough to rest on the bottom flare/flange of the cross member and come up to even with the edge of the hole that you have cut in the top. This will be for both front and back of the x-member.
Then either bolt it/them in with 6 or 8 heavy bolts front and back, or weld it in as an integral part of the cross member.
With the open hole you can now get to those pesky pan bolts to change the gasket without taking the whole damn thing out, and I think it will be stiff enough to do the job it is intended for, whatever that is.
With your idea in mind I will probably do just this with one of mine in my next project where I will be utilizing some kind of deeper pan myself.
I would $hit-can the solid mount idea if I were you, for all the reasons stated.
Jerry Feather
