Suggestions for reattaching vinyl and carpet?
 

I think this is probably pretty common... at least in black 928's: the vinyl and carpet on the door panels comes unglued. Last time I had the door panels out I reglued both the carpet and vinyl using DAP Weldwood. It worked great!.... but.... on a hot day, Weldwood melts, and you're back to square one.

DAP also makes something called Weldwood HHR, which is specifically for automotive trim and upholstery, but it only comes in 1 gallon cans (for the spray on type) and 5 gallon cans (for the brush on type). The brush on stuff sounds like exactly what I need, but I can't see buying $200 worth of contact cement, when I'm only likely to use about 4oz out of the 5 gallons.

Any other suggestions here?

Thanks,
Paul

I use 3M Genaral Trim Adhesive. They also have Super Trim Adhesive. I have never had a piece come loose after using this stuff. Comes in spray cans and brush, I use the cans.

Paul--

Are you using the yellow or the white contact cement? The old high-VOC stuff seems to work best for me.

Method: Clean the edges where the glue goes using acetone. Get as much of the old glue off as possible. Following the direction on the can, appy a thin layer of glue to both faces. Remember that the vinyl glues on only around the corners, nothing on the front face. Back to following the directions, wait until the glue starts to set and develops a film. Then roll the edges over and get everything clamped up. I use sections of paint stir sticks and a slew of spring clamps to apply plenty of clamping pressure. Let it set for a whole day before unclamping, and it's good to go. In the past, failures for me have been from anadequate prep, particularly cleaning old failed adhesive off, and from impatience with waiting for the glue to skin over before assembling.

DAP is the way to go for the Vinyl if you have access to an air compressor and a cheap spray gun. The 3M trim adhesive doesn't hold up, on the vinyl, in my experience.

I have a compressor, and I can certainly get a cheap spray gun from Harbor Freight. I'm not so sure about the control I'll get with a sprayer versus a brush, though... I'd be worried about overspray and also missed spots. Are these concerns valid, or can they be mitigated easily?

I'm using regular DAP Weldwood (not the low VOC one). It's pretty much white, IIRC. http://www.dap.com/product_details.a...=46&SubcatID=8

Initially, while the components are at room temperature, it works beautifully and is very strong. But. after a few hot days, it comes apart. Other people I've talked with locally have had the same experience. I would think this is why DAP offers the HHR version.

I use a low cost spray gun that I ordered from the upholstery shop where I bought the DAP HHR. I've read that the cheap HF guns work fine also. It took a little practice, but I find it no harder to use than a spray can, which means that you do have to be careful of overspray. I find the coverage easier to control than with a brush; although, a small brush is definitely easier to use in some tight spots.

Timberline Upholstery down off of Stone Ave. and Fillmore sell an in house glue in a spray can that I have been very happy with that you might want to try.

Anybody know what cement is best to use on the rear of a leather or vinyl headliner that is sagging? I can't tell if its leather or vinyl, the dash is leather but the seats have cloth inserts, so I thought seats & headliner were vinyl?

If you can get it, use this for most all interior work.
Weldwood HHR Contact Cement

Great timing on this thread, need to fix a ton of interior parts on the shark...

Hi Rob,

The Weldwood HHR was the topic of the original post. Are you recommending the brush on (5 gal - $200 minimum type) or the spray on (1 gal - $40 minimum type)? Or do you know of a source for smaller containers of these?

Edit: Nevermind, I see that your post has a link and it's recommending the 1 gallon - spray on type.

Thanks,
Paul

Sure enough. They also have a brush on type for $15.95 a quart. Sounds like a plan.

Thanks Josh.

if you have the top of the door panel covering coming off then use the small 1/4 in. staples as well as the glue,
Staple the back edge onto the panel,
it wont come off and the staples wont come through to the other side.
I fixed 3 sets of door panels like this.

Take a small vial, like from a 100 caplets of food supplement, to your trim shop and ask them how much for having it nearly filled with YELLOW contact cement. It doesn't matter if they are using it to spray with. You can use it with a small brush and it works just fine. Do not bother with the white or clear contact cement. The yellow will hold very well and you will not need any clamping. Stan's idea about the staples is great, but you can probably get by better with 1/8inch staples. I have some that I use for than in similar situations.

If the trim shop won't sell you some cement, let me know and my trim guy and I will send you some.

Jerry Feather