Checking for timing jump
08-12-2011, 11:51 PM
#92
Team Owner
they only fit on one way..
( with the engine at TDC ) the rotors will both be pointing to the driverside fender
Note fit them after you have turned the engine over a few times to check repeatability of the timing marks..
if the marks dont line up then the belt has to come off and then you would use the large washer nut 30mm to turn the cam or hold the cam, with the rotor on this nut is covered
( with the engine at TDC ) the rotors will both be pointing to the driverside fender
Note fit them after you have turned the engine over a few times to check repeatability of the timing marks..
if the marks dont line up then the belt has to come off and then you would use the large washer nut 30mm to turn the cam or hold the cam, with the rotor on this nut is covered
08-13-2011, 09:45 PM
#95
Rennlist Member
Curious what Stan will say, but I'm generally adjusting to kempf top-of-window on the 32V cars. And that's pretty common for pointer alignment on gears.
08-13-2011, 10:16 PM
#97
Rennlist Member
Exactly! Making sure tool pivot hinge is not in a bind (mine drags if the tool isn't perpendicular to the edge of the belt).
Then, checked and tweaked at successive approaches TDC, 3 or 4 different repetitions.
I think your car is going to be running again very soon!
Then, checked and tweaked at successive approaches TDC, 3 or 4 different repetitions.
I think your car is going to be running again very soon!
08-13-2011, 10:26 PM
#99
Rennlist Member
thats perfect charlie. i usually just go for 8-10s of that window not the full window . full window was correlated at near 5.5. on the porsche 9201
im going to get a weight value for mine and do it in such a way , everyone can correlate their kempf tool for 5.0. probably will require drilling a small hole and hanging a small 2.5 common weight from it from a particular point.
im going to get a weight value for mine and do it in such a way , everyone can correlate their kempf tool for 5.0. probably will require drilling a small hole and hanging a small 2.5 common weight from it from a particular point.
08-13-2011, 10:29 PM
#100
Rennlist Member
I "set" mine using the timing belt warning light on 3 different 32V cars.
Was able to reproduce a light fault if setting low in window.
Light is gone, and stays gone, at just before or at highest point in window.
Was able to reproduce a light fault if setting low in window.
Light is gone, and stays gone, at just before or at highest point in window.
08-13-2011, 10:36 PM
#102
Rennlist Member
i dont think that is a good way. How I understand it, the light comes on when the pushrod loses contact. could be a flutter, or anomoly type of movement. my light was constantly coming on and regularly after 5 mins of running, so i replaced some components, fixed one, and still it was coming on. so, i shorted it out and it is no longer working. again, ive done the setting with the 9201 and correlated it to the kempf tool. (not on OB cars, though, follow my progress about that on another thread. 
)
mk
)mk
08-15-2011, 07:55 PM
#103
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well first TB/WP job done and back on the road.
Thanks for everyones help.
Bill Ball made two 100 mile round trips to keep me out of trouble. Fortunately he brought his Porken tool and found both cams way out of time. As usual he's a life saver.
Dwaynes write up also saved me a lot of time. Nothing like pictures for a dummy like me to help make things understandable.
This forum is so valuable.
Thanks for everyones help.
Bill Ball made two 100 mile round trips to keep me out of trouble. Fortunately he brought his Porken tool and found both cams way out of time. As usual he's a life saver.
Dwaynes write up also saved me a lot of time. Nothing like pictures for a dummy like me to help make things understandable.
This forum is so valuable.
08-15-2011, 08:30 PM
#104
Team Owner
Hi Charlie so this is the car that had a jumped timing belt?
and you just put the belt/WP on and all is good?
this is really good news as i was expecting the heads to have to come off
The timing belt tension on your 32V car should be set to the high side of the kempf tool with the engine at TDc and cold.
This should be a touch over 5.0 and with some belt stretch, you may get a belt warning light in a few hundred miles , at any rate just make sure to recheck the belt tension before you get past 1500 miles
and you just put the belt/WP on and all is good?
this is really good news as i was expecting the heads to have to come off
The timing belt tension on your 32V car should be set to the high side of the kempf tool with the engine at TDc and cold.
This should be a touch over 5.0 and with some belt stretch, you may get a belt warning light in a few hundred miles , at any rate just make sure to recheck the belt tension before you get past 1500 miles
08-15-2011, 08:45 PM
#105
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hi Stan
Yes this is the car that started running extremely rough and as I was trying to start it, it began to have a knocking sound in the engine so I flat bedded it home. When I tore it down the left side cam was off about seven teeth and the belt was way loose. Bill and I did a leak down test and could only get about a 2 to 4 Lb differential on the cylinders so I went ahead and did the timing belt.
I discovered the battery was shot so I installed a new Duralast Gold ( Now up to $175 @ autozone) this morning. Fired it up, instant 5 bar oil pressure, the lifters quieted right down and she's purring like the kitten of old.
I'm wondering if the bad battery caused the rough running, which caused it to backfire, which then caused the belt to jump due to it being too loose.
It had run rough upon start up a few times previously but then smoothed out after a few minutes. I wonder if that was because the Alternator compensated for the poor condition of the battery after a few minutes of run time.
Yes this is the car that started running extremely rough and as I was trying to start it, it began to have a knocking sound in the engine so I flat bedded it home. When I tore it down the left side cam was off about seven teeth and the belt was way loose. Bill and I did a leak down test and could only get about a 2 to 4 Lb differential on the cylinders so I went ahead and did the timing belt.
I discovered the battery was shot so I installed a new Duralast Gold ( Now up to $175 @ autozone) this morning. Fired it up, instant 5 bar oil pressure, the lifters quieted right down and she's purring like the kitten of old.
I'm wondering if the bad battery caused the rough running, which caused it to backfire, which then caused the belt to jump due to it being too loose.
It had run rough upon start up a few times previously but then smoothed out after a few minutes. I wonder if that was because the Alternator compensated for the poor condition of the battery after a few minutes of run time.
