Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

TT replaced, now shifting, overheating problems

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-31-2011, 01:30 AM
  #1  
Dictys
Racer
Thread Starter
 
Dictys's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Blighty
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default TT replaced, now shifting, overheating problems

My TT has been replaced, but since picking the car up I've had a few issue not with the TT but with the transmission.

I first noticed after picking the car up it was reluctated to kick down, other wise everything looked ok. I had a visually check of the engine bay and the cables looked tight (maybe too tight?).

Next day whilst on the freeway, I slowed down for a traffic jam and then once on the move it seems the car would not shift out of 2nd. Due to the heavy fast moving traffice and no hard shoulder I was forced to drive a few miles with the rev up in the 4-5k range. The car began to overheat but did not hit the upper red line, stopped just under. The outside temperature was 104f.

I got the car off the freeway and parked up, then after a second or two coolant was hitting the road at the rear of the engine on the passenger side, the cooling fans where running and I could hear a burping noise from the rear under the air filter cover of the engine. The coolant resovior was full.

I have done nothing with the car since, any ideas where to start?
Old 05-31-2011, 02:24 AM
  #2  
dr bob
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
dr bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Bend, Oregon
Posts: 20,506
Received 545 Likes on 408 Posts
Default

The TV cable from the throttle relay/bellcrank to the transmission should have a very slight amount of slack when the pedal is up. I keep mine adjusted at about 4 turns looser, and enjoy the later downshifts earlier upshifts in my casual driving. A few turns on that cable one way of the other will dramatically change the personality of the car. Right now mine is more of a Mr. Hyde.
Old 05-31-2011, 09:43 AM
  #3  
Leon Speed
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
Leon Speed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Germany
Posts: 4,539
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Also check if the vacuum hose is connected to the modulator on the trans.

The coolant is no problem, just check if it spilled from the overflow hose which attaches to the reservoir neck and not from a split line or loose connection somehwere else. And fill up to the middle of the reservoir when cold.
Old 05-31-2011, 10:04 AM
  #4  
Dictys
Racer
Thread Starter
 
Dictys's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Blighty
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Thanks guys,

I'll get under the car as soon as i can and have a look at the modulator, would the govenor also cause this problem of not going into higher gears? anyidea how to access that?
Old 05-31-2011, 10:05 AM
  #5  
Landseer
Rennlist Member
 
Landseer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Johnson City, TN
Posts: 12,143
Received 356 Likes on 205 Posts
Default

Things to check?

Trans fluid level.

Endplay / flexplate tension --- what treatment is used on your front clamp? Loctite or Constantine or PKlamp? (Does shop understand the causes of TBF and how did they compensate?)

Check for coolant leak under air filter. The passenger side heater hose nipple coming out of head S4 is failure prone ( I think flying scotsman did a review of this ) and heater hose is, too.

Did they remove pan when removing trans? If so, maybe filter on wrong inside, or, though pan is very strong, deflection of pan into filter that might restrict flow.


Above tbf reference is because of correlation between tbf and trans/tt work that has been reported; just be safe/sure on this.
Old 05-31-2011, 10:10 AM
  #6  
Landseer
Rennlist Member
 
Landseer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Johnson City, TN
Posts: 12,143
Received 356 Likes on 205 Posts
Default

Modulator is on drivers side. Vac hose is rubber at bellhousing, then transitions to copper along top of TT, then to rubber near end of TT, looping down to mod valve.

A little tough to reach with exhaust / shield. Can pull off hose at valve. Check hose for vac with car idling. Then attach mighty vac to mod valve nipple, pump it down, see if it holds vac.
Old 05-31-2011, 10:23 AM
  #7  
Dictys
Racer
Thread Starter
 
Dictys's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Blighty
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Landseer
Things to check?

Trans fluid level.

Endplay / flexplate tension --- what treatment is used on your front clamp? Loctite or Constantine or PKlamp? (Does shop understand the causes of TBF and how did they compensate?) It has a PKlamp on it, they are aware of the TBF.

Check for coolant leak under air filter. The passenger side heater hose nipple coming out of head S4 is failure prone ( I think flying scotsman did a review of this ) and heater hose is, too. Will do as that is where I could here some noise

Did they remove pan when removing trans? If so, maybe filter on wrong inside, or, though pan is very strong, deflection of pan into filter that might restrict flow. Unsure, but I think they did not remove the pan


Above tbf reference is because of correlation between tbf and trans/tt work that has been reported; just be safe/sure on this.
Thanks I will check the above, I'm praying for a cold morning this week!



Quick Reply: TT replaced, now shifting, overheating problems



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 06:50 AM.