Bilal928S4

So with all the posts major work being done, I decided to tackle the enormous job of getting the steering rack, oil pan gasket and motor mounts replaced. Everything went pretty smoothly and now I have everything disassembled.
I did all the disassemble yesterday I between driving the kids around. So I have a few questions:
1. Some of the parts when removed have some surface rust and the paint is flaking. What do I use to get the rust and paint off?
2. What do I use to paint them again? Rusty run from Home depot or car paint? Primer and paint?
3. What do I use to clean the rest of the parts around the engine bay, ie starter, pulleys etc that are covered with an oily film and sand. Brake cleaner or engine degreaser or just spray some other degreaser like simple green? Then do I just rinse it off with water?
4. What do I use for degreasing the bolts etc?
5. How do you get the front bolts for the oil pan in, as they were very difficult to get out? Is there any trick or other things that need to be removed to get them in?
6. Where do the smaller oil pan bolts go? It's not shown on the pet or the manuals?
7. How do you torque these? Just by feel?
8. There is the connection for the oil gauge in the front of the oil pan, the rubber boot was hard and brittle and broke. Is it available separately?
Sorry for all the q's just want to make sure I don't do the things the hard way.

ammonman

1. Wire brush or wire wheel.
2. I would primer and paint with Duplicolor or other automotive spray .
3. I use brake cleaner and a soft brush (tooth brush) to loosen tough grease. If I use a water based de-greaser I mix it up and apply with a pump up sprayer. Then I use the same sprayer to rinse to keep water ingress to a minimum.
4. See #3
5. If you don't have the correct size Gear Wrench you do it very slowly the same way they came out.
6. Not sure.
7. I would snug them by feel.
8. The boot is probably available. Look in the 944 parts catalog as many of the connectors and boots are shown there. Some have reported success with a high performance spark plug boot available at your local chain parts store.

Hope this helps.

Mike

Bilal928S4

Here is where I ended up on saturday. Due to all the kids activities, did not work on it yesterday.
Here is the patient on the jack stands:

Bilal928S4

It wouldn't let me caption the pictures.
The second picture is of the crispy Oil Pan Gasket.
The third is the partially cleaned oil pan.
the fourth is the intrnal rear of the engine
And the last one is the connecter cover that was totally brittle and broke off.

Bilal928S4

Here is the picture of the cross member that is a little rusty.

Mrmerlin

the smaller bolts for the oil pan go into the recessed areas usually over the cross member and the starter IIRC there are 6 of them.
Look along the pan surface where the bolts go in you will see the reduced thickness of the pan

Phil 9xx

This is how the OP bolts layed out when I did this on my S4...orientation is 'F' for front of car and 'DS' for driver side. Shorter bolts annotated by the arrows...the two with spacers in the corners....

Bilal928S4

Phil, Thanks for the picture. However I do not have any of the spacers. Mine is a '90 S4. I talked with Roger and he also does not remember any spacers.

Lizard928

Those arent spacers,

They go on the bolt and center the bolt in the pan hole to ensure a better orientation. Most times they stay in the pan.

Phil 9xx

Yes, thanks for the clarification -- not sure what they are called. Sorry if that was misleading. Just be aware of them...sometimes they stay in and sometimes they'll fall out.

F18Rep

Ok but this one was a really bad idea... as some of the bolts are cadmium coated. Cadmium is bad, really bad... and your kidney doctor will want to have a little chat about exposure. More info here...Bruce

Bilal928S4

Thanks for the responses. Yes the spacer? is in the pan. I think that they have them at the corners to align the pan correctly. So those are the two bolts that should be installed first to align the pan and the rest of the bolts would go in OK.

jeff spahn

I didn't notice my pan bolts were different lengths. No leaks.
Next time I am doing the stud kit so I don't have to check them every couple months. They do work loose.

Bilal928S4

Here is the picture of the cross member.

jeff spahn

There are some really good rust reformer primers out there that neutralize the rust. Prime it with that after you clean it up good and then paint it with an automotive black paint. That is if you want a really good looking result. Nice to see your heat protection is still on the motor mount guards.