Need photo of INSIDE rear bumper cover
 

Garrett's 1980 rear bumper is STILL deformed. The PORSCHE area is sunken and should be flat. So I removed and noticed that a reinforced rail #92850525302 is missing below this area. The PET shows a rail that attaches to the rear bumper cover inside. Does anyone have a photo showing this piece? I need to add this and that I hope will take the deformation out of the cover.

Dean, I have my bumper off at the present but don't have a way to post a pic. The strip that you are talking about ataches to the very bottom edge of the cover. I hope thias helps.
Mike

The bumper bar attaches on the early cars usually through the bumper to the bumperettes, and the bumper cover is sandwiched by the two, IIRC.

That aluminum bar does not specifically support the area where the porsche is indented.

i just did the repaint on my car, and behind the "porsche" is not really supported. but if the bumperettes are not attached right, it can warp it a little, but not much.
http://i575.photobucket.com/albums/s...8/100_1772.jpg

You must mean the metal strip along the bottom. Here it is on a 79, ignore all the other silliness going on in this pic.

very silly mike. what were you thinking!

Here is a pic I just took of the bumper I removed today...again. Looks like there was something attached at some time to the leg inside the cover...I assume to give the cove some rigidity. There is 2 screw holes in this leg and if there is nothing there what is the purpose of the holes? I thought that is where the reinforcement channel attached but I am NOT at all sure.

What can I GLUE to the back side of the big flat area that will flatten this area out??? Its just not going back on until I figure this out. This pic is the best I have to upload right now. if you look you will see the flat area is cupped in.

Ideas Please...I can't think right now I guess.

Cooler for ???
 

Hi Mike
Is the cooler for manual transmission or??
Thanks!

Dean
The rib with the holes in it is exactly the same on my 82 ... and the holes do nothing. The flat rib just rests on the top of the alloy bumper, and is not fixed to it.

Rather that trying to glue a strip across the cover, perhaps some ribs (like wing ribs in a plane), could be fitted at intervals vertically inside the cover. They could sit on top of the plastic reinforcing shelf, be shaped to the correct profile, and taper off at the top so that they wedge at the top between the inside of the cover and the backside of the tool recess. At the top they would be wedged in the space and at the bottom they could have a fixing screw coming up through the plastic shelf. Doing it that way would mean you wouldn't have to deal with glue and importantly wouldn't be compromising your fantastic paint job. Just a thought.

does anyone have a write up on the rear bumper removal ? with pix. need to replace the bumper shocks, body shop says 8 hours just to rr bumper cover.

They must have a long lunch at the pub factored into that time ... no way is it 8 hours ... jeez .. I've taken a motor out and had it stripped in that time.

I can't help you with a write up on bumper removal, but it's fairly straightforward and you can see what you need to do once you get splash guards out of the way ... the only difficult studs/nuts to get to are on the fuel tank side.

Try a search and I'm sure you'll get some results ... I know it's been discussed many times before.

The gastank fillerneck is in the way. It is hard/impossible to reach the nuts in the wheel wells with the fillerneck still there. Furthermore, big chance some are rusted solid so you'll break the threads. I did. I replaced them with stainless steel welded on the metal strips that sit in the ridge around the inside of the bumper cover.

I would imagine a U shaped aluminum channel or similar from home depot, etc. glued on with an epoxy should fix

Dean, I only had that bottom metal piece in my cover.
Has yours always been mounted with the metal strip that's at the top where the hatch closes? If that wasn't there things could move around.