Speedtoys

Ok guys..I have no frozen pins.

The pins..in relation to the ends of the LCA, do not rotate in their normal movement. Any movement around the pin is at the shock, and thats free.


Lets debate this..my view is that you can NOT bolt this plate into both the Bearing Pin and the inner LCA connection where the OEM endlink went at the same time.


This will cause a bind..this is not good.


Iceman, take the bolt out of your endlink side of that plate.

1) Your creak will go away
2) Your losening nuts will go away
3) Your suspension will gain all of it's travel back (its not binding up anymore)

Bill Ball

I can't get the instructions to download from Carl's FTP site. Jeff, we should take one more look at this, but for everyone else, my pin turns with the shock, even though the pin is not corroded. When the nuts on the pin are torqued to 103 ft-lbs, it is locked to the center tube of the bushings, and those appear to move with the shock. So, as the suspension pivots up and down, the pin rotates a bit versus the suspension arm that Carl's plate bolts to. For Carl's plate to work properly, the pin must stay fixed relative to the suspension arm and Carl's plate. Maybe something is wrong with my pin, but it sure seems fine. I just had it out this week to install new shocks. No problem and I know it is assembled correctly.

We'll look at this again. Jeff definitely had a space behind the plate, but I'm not sure how that matters.

76FJ55

When you look at the stack-up of the lower pivot, you will see that the pin should rotate with the hub carrier. As Bill states " When the nuts on the pin are torqued to 103 ft-lbs, it is locked to the center tube of the bushings", but rather than being locked to the shock the two cone washers lock the rotational position to the hub carrier.
In order for the rear suspension to function correctly there needs to be the ability for relative rotation between the pin and the lower control arm. That is why the rubber bushings are installed in the control arm.

Ducman82

what is strange is mine only does it some times. not all the time. when im able to make the sounds in the garage, it sounds like swaybar bushings to me.... hummmmm

Speedtoys

Bill:

I sure wish to heck I could make SITP..I cant.

Iceman cant make it..so that was likely the only chance to get it there for others to observe this geometric issue.


Odd that Carl hasnt piped in yet on this.

Rob Edwards

I have these plates on my car and haven't noticed any issue with them (not that I'm the most sensitive tool in the shed....). I have stock swaybar bushings and links on mine. Maybe we can look at the setup at SITP- Do we need a jack to have a proper look? .

EDIT: Here's a hosted copy of the pdf of the install instructions- Carl, if you'd prefer that I not host this, holler and I'll take it down.


https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/pu...eDownHooks.pdf

RE-EDIT: Linky fixed.

Speedtoys

Bill can peek at yours, and I'll be hooking up again with Bill on some weekday in the next few weeks to re-review what Ive got here.

andy-gts

hey Rob,

I hear you have no creaks ,, and no more oil in the intake I hear????

Awesome.

andy goetting

Bill Ball

It's hard to locate it just based on the sound, but as soon as we removed the other bolt from the other end of the plate, the noise stopped and we could see that locking these two ends together was restricting suspension travel, at least in Jeff's case, and it appears it would do so in my case. By the looks of things, the pin needs to be able to rotate free of the lower control arms, I thought with the shock, but 76FJ55 suggests it's with the hub carrier. Either way, the pin would rotate some relative to the LCA. Quite often others have found the pin is seized to the hub carrier, further support for what 76JF55 indicates. If it cannot rotate, the rear end suspension motion is restricted. With a stiff suspension, you may not easily notice that.

If you think it's the swaybar bushing, detach the droplink but put the bolt back in and see if that eliminates the creak.

Bill Ball

Rob: It appears your link is broken.

Yes, we would need a jack. What I would do is remove the bolt that mounts the plate to the original droplink mount, then raise and lower the LCA and observe versus having that bolt in.

Speedtoys

Or at home Rob..jack up a corner, remove that inner bolt where the end link used to go, lower corner of car.


Bolt hole to the LCA hole still lined up?

Bill Ball

Rob: Somehow your link got corrupted...here it is edited.

https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/pu...eDownHooks.pdf

Ducman82

any updates jeff?

Speedtoys

None yet..been wildly busy. Just got to Thunderhill right now...will be cranking on Sean's car tomorrow, and mine some as well..have had no time to schedule Bill up either.

blazing928

interested in out come, mine creaks/cracks on the drivers side, but as I am RHD its the right hand side, so the same as passenger in tthe US. I can lift my guard to get the crack, then step on sill to get another one.

Can someone mark a std cars pin/ washer with paint and see if it cracks off due to movement?