Resistor in pod switches? Dim Bulb
#1
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Hello all,
I noticed when I was testing bulbs to re-use in the pod switches that they are very dim in the switches when given 12V at pins 31 and 58, but the bulbs are full-bright when hooked to 12V on their own, outside the switches.
I should assume that this was intended, but is it supposed to be THAT dim? barely noticeable unless the room is complete dark.
I must have read the wiring diagrams wrong. Are there other pins that would power the bulbs at full brightness? Are they supposed to be brighter when switched on? I noticed the hazard switch is dim, but I know it flashes much brighter when engaged.
I noticed when I was testing bulbs to re-use in the pod switches that they are very dim in the switches when given 12V at pins 31 and 58, but the bulbs are full-bright when hooked to 12V on their own, outside the switches.
I should assume that this was intended, but is it supposed to be THAT dim? barely noticeable unless the room is complete dark.
I must have read the wiring diagrams wrong. Are there other pins that would power the bulbs at full brightness? Are they supposed to be brighter when switched on? I noticed the hazard switch is dim, but I know it flashes much brighter when engaged.
#2
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Okay, so I can do that resistance measurement borland, thank you. Then what maths do I have to do?
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#3
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I think that the resistors are intended to reduce heat from the lights as well as to dim them.
They are a little too dim in my opinion. I was thinking of replacing the resistor with one of a smaller value, or maybe an LED replacement. Another of those things to do that I have yet to get around to doing.
FWIW, the bulbs are rated at 12 volts and the nominal 1.2 watts power specification is only applicable at that voltage and only after the filament is up to temperature. The resistance of the cold filament is far less than when it is hot and producing light, so measuring the resistance of the cold filament will not give any helpful numbers for computing the working power of the bulb.
The current when power is first applied to the bulb and the filament is cold with low resistance is far higher than it is when the filament is up to temperature and its resistance increased. The current draw, and power dissipation, quickly decrease as the filament heats. I have some vague recollection that this start up surge can be as much as ten times the rated value.
They are a little too dim in my opinion. I was thinking of replacing the resistor with one of a smaller value, or maybe an LED replacement. Another of those things to do that I have yet to get around to doing.
FWIW, the bulbs are rated at 12 volts and the nominal 1.2 watts power specification is only applicable at that voltage and only after the filament is up to temperature. The resistance of the cold filament is far less than when it is hot and producing light, so measuring the resistance of the cold filament will not give any helpful numbers for computing the working power of the bulb.
The current when power is first applied to the bulb and the filament is cold with low resistance is far higher than it is when the filament is up to temperature and its resistance increased. The current draw, and power dissipation, quickly decrease as the filament heats. I have some vague recollection that this start up surge can be as much as ten times the rated value.
#4
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Okay, guys thanks I think what I do is... *KaPOW* - OOPS my brain just exploded.
#5
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Some of the pod switches are set up so that the light is very dim any time that the ignition is on, and bright only when the switch is on.
#6
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Yes, thank you for that info. I think I may get it now. The dim is just so very dim.
#7
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The dimmer, from what I can see, is dead. No resistance change. I am hard wiring the dash lights wire when I return the pod to the car. I am currently driving with the gauges in but the pod out.