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It is probably for the best, that I never meet the Previous Owner.
I now know why I have had such a hard time fixing my AC. PO plugged in a manual switch to kill the compressor (I can only assume for the large amounts of HP at high speeds) and a few other switches going who knows where?
Any one have an auto AC PCboard as parts.
It's like a cheap roofer purchased this new and installed a dash over the old dash.
The point of no turning back
Followed by this. Not sure what gear I need for 85mph speedo
Last edited by Mikebte; 02-17-2018 at 07:13 PM.
Reason: Photo adding
The intake bolts - a step that makes you feel like you're almost there, but you're not.
Today I finished removing or rearranging the fuel system components. I'll remove the injectors from the intake when I have it on the bench. Stiff brushed and vacuumed out the grit and debris around the intake ports. Scanned Dwayne's write up and realized removing the bolts is the first step of a much more involved "pitch" of this climb (though it seems more like caving...especially the dirt and grime...on your belly through tight spaces). So I camped for the night...Hope to be in the valley sometime on Monday.
Except for pressing out the torque converter bearings, I've reached the nadir of disassembly for the torque tube bearing replacement procedure. I encountered two recalcitrant bolts along the way. One simply held a bracket for the bowden cable housing on the front bell housing - Stan warned me they are loc-tited, but I did not understand why; now I do, and this bolt will never trouble anyone again. The other was a bolt for the TC cover, lower right, a bit corroded it turns out. I resorted to a brutal cold chisel approach I learned on Youtube.
Been doing a lot of cleaning. I use the 90% iterative method. Get 90% of the dirt and grime off in one go, then 90% of what's left - that comes to 99% removal. Must I do another iteration, to 99.9%?
Lots of WYAIT stuff: replacing locked-up shock adjustor collars, rear pads and rotors, ATF cooler lines, transaxle mounts, and I'll address that one reliable source of leaking that Jon brought up a year or two ago - I have the special goo that Greg Brown recommended.
I've found nothing so far that's clearly responsible for the bag-of-marbles sound that led to this work.
is that the first for your car? after all the work youve done over the years!
btw............all I did was charge the batteries, its still -15c in the unheated garage
..nope. pretty sure i did the driver side many years ago. This is as bad as it gets these days. nit noidy nit picky shyte. Havent really turned a serious wrench on the car in a while!
that said i think i blew my passenger side lock motor or something.Its dead now and the driver side keeps cycling and locks me IN the car!!! crazy stuff.
What did all that go to?
Was that all non factory "additions" by the PO?
Aftermarket alarm, AC compressor cut off switch, a relay going to who knows what, a manual alarm “on” switch. Also a ford starter solenoid I am still removing and some 3 crazy addition horns, and an alarm horn. The P.O. was creative. Also and many other wires I am unsure of....
I swapped out the spark plugs as it’s a balmy 65 degrees today here in Boston. Old ones were WR7DC and replaced with WR7DC+. Gaps were .033-.034. New are spec at .028. Old plugs all looked even color and same wear. Still have rotors and disty caps to do..
Crawled under to try and isolate a little seepage from the right side of the gearbox. It's either the o-ring for the TV cable, the reservoir is overflowing, or that little pin that Greg identified as a probable leakage point. I think leaks started when I we moved and the car started a winter hibernation lifestyle. Stuff is drying out, the car sits at a slight forward pitch while sleeping, etc. Or... maybe the current gearbox is griping because there's a spare sitting on a dolly right behind it. Lots of cleaning to do before we do any serious surgery or trans swap.
02-17-2018, 03:58 PM
