I just remembered: don't forget a weld-thru primer on the roof structure before you weld the panel on, and make sure to seal the edges well where the new panel meets the frame before painting. You don't want ANY way of rust getting started in there and working its way out.

Thanks Mark, I appreciate the suggestions, and thanks again for the great service. Got most of the insulation out, but still have quite a bit of residue left. Did you drill yours all the way out or did you drill only the top skin?

Carl

Good luck with the project, post lots of pics for us...

Sterling,

What size wheelstires are you running? The rear fenders are rolled on the GT, so I think there will be enough room. I ran 18" Fikse FM 10 with 295's in the rear on my 86.5 with rolled fenders. Need more tire than that? :)

Been watching your modifications...beautiful car!

Cheers!
Carl

Guards Red 90GT...hope it wasn't the one I used to own - that was a great car, later owned by RKD in OKC. What are the last 4 digits of your VIN, if you don't mind me asking?

As to a black color - I've always been a fan of BMW's Cosmos Black. I had it on a '95 M3 and when clean and properly polished it was stunning. Seemed like it had both silver and blue flake in it. Looks like a fun project, good luck!

Yes, I agree. I had a Diamondschwartz metallic BMW 325M many years ago and it was a great color.

Don't have the VIN in front of me but according to the Carfax registration report it has been a Florida car since new.

Cheers!
Carl

Thanks Carl. If it was a FL car since new then it wasn't my previous GT. Last I knew it was in the New England area, and it was in Oklahoma before that.

Whoa, that Isispower harness technology is cool. Have you used this Brendan?

I want to, but I have not yet. Its pricey as I mentioned in relation to a universal 18 or 22 channel harness - but if you think about it - it would make things pretty damn easy. And you could have modern-vehicle functionality - like slowly dimming interior lights, outside lights on at night for unlocking and locking, multi-function signal array for turn signals, radio on until door open, headlights lights timed on off from key removal, etc.

Its looking like a great system - my concerns are:

1) longevity of company/product
2) Replacement parts
3) Support of Product

Not that there would be any of 1 or 3 if I bought some 399.99 loom.

Thanks Brendan. I guess company viability would create some serious questions. Very cool tech. Thanks for sharing.

I know how much work this is going to be as I tore down your car. I could not believe it when Mark told me what you were going to do with it. I am glad to see you got started and also look forward to the sunroof delete part of the project.:bigbye:

I don't know the answer to the nylon question, but all of the new Porsche models have aluminum fuel lines, mostly because of the corrosive nature of modern fuels. (ethenol)

Carl - Congratulations on beginning such an ambitious project.

I too like black cars with a hint of pearl in them. I think black cherry is a really incredible color. Black base with very fine cherry pearl. I also like eggplant as a color. Black base with a dark purple fine pearl. Those colors just look fantastic on cars with curves like a 928.

Widen the rear quarter panels as Sterling suggests.

Good luck!

Copper-nickel 90/10 (Cunifer) is super-easy to bend and flare. It is readily available in both imperial and metric sizes, will not work-harden, and is nearly as corrosion resistant as stainless steel. Also, flare connections seem to seal more easily with CuNi. Stainless steel flares take a lot more torque to seal (if you are not using seamless tubing, forget it) - so much more, that I would not use it with aluminum fittings. Copper-nickel is what Porsche used for the brake lines. It's too bad they didn't use stainless steel flare nuts.

If I were you, I would NOT use Classic Tube. They took forever to make my fuel lines, and I ended up trashing everything they sent. The bends were inaccurate, the convex flares were not properly formed, there were incorrect fittings, etc.

I ended up fabricating new fuel lines for my car using copper-nickel - everything from the tank to the fuel distributor and back. Just bite the bullet and get good tools - bender, flare, straightener, cutter, deburring, etc. It's a pain in the ass, but nobody other than you is likely to take the time and effort to do a nice job.

full resto...
 

I enjoy watching others do full restorations, and I am somewhat of a restoration junkie/wannabee myself. The last restoration I did was on a 65 karmann ghia, which I completely dismantled, then sold in pieces for more than I put into it....Your wood dolley reminded me of my old project...

I suspect your project will go further than mine did...