Randy V

Free + Porsche = more trouble than it's worth

Perhaps yours will be the exception to the rule.

Landseer

All mine have faint smell. If you put the vac tester on it, it should hold vac. Or suck on it, you should not ingest gas.

I think you need to put the 3 wire jumper in place of the ignition relay. When only half the relay is working, it acts like that. 30 to 87 to 87a.

ThomO

Yeah I plan on doing a write up when I am done on how much a free 928 actually costs

ThomO

I will do the three wire jumper as my next troubleshooting step

ThomO

Ok so here is the update:

Went through the CE panel and it looks good tightened a couple of connections cleaned things up nothing major.

Jumpered the fuel injection relay with the three wire no change. Verified I am get 12 volts.

Vacuum tested the fuel regulator it is not leaking fuel pressure.

I still have fuel pressure.

Noid light still shows that the injectors are firing.

Car will start run for 2-3 seconds and die, If you touch the gas at all it will instantly die.

Any suggestions

Tempermental

Hey ThomO

In the same boat (82/'free') --watch out for your aluminum ball joints

Not at all an expert but from others kind/wise advice

You might also want to make a 2 wire jumper for the fuel pump-jumper both fuel and ignition
Ignition switch-
Green wire
clean passenger side injection grounds
also engine ground (passenger side)

Just for chuckles unplug the elec plug on the AFM, start it and see if it keeps running--mine does (like sh*t)

ThomO

Still trying to diagnose my issue.

The car did start and run for five days after it sat for 18 months with a bad fuel pump PO was not a mechanic.

Car will start run for 3-4 seconds and die, it will die immediatly if I give it any throttle.

I found a troubleshooting chart in the WSM and went through and tried everything there.

AFC relay (was replaced, also tried starting the car with it jumpered, 12 volts measured)

Cold start valve leaks (could not find specific leak test in WSM, checked electrical connection and it is good)

Auxiliary air regulator won't open (verified per WSM that the valve is open when engine is cold, verified voltage per WSM, cleaned electrical connector it had all kinds of corrosion).

Intake Air sensor defective (checked movement of plate per WSM)

Temp II sensor in engine defective (checked good per specs in WSM, ordered a new one just in case)

Break in wire harness and plugs (ahhh the catch all, I have not been able to find any)

Control unit defective (Had it tested by specialized ECU repair).

Tried the three wire jumper on the starter relay per Landseer (12volts measured)

cleaned and checked the CE panel.

replaced fuel pump and filter (it was originally bad).

replaced thermo time sensor (it checked outside of specs from the WSM, that got the car to the point where it starts and dies now)

noid light shows the injectors are getting an electrical impulse.

I have fuel pressure on both sides of the fuel regulator

The fuel pressure regulator holds vacuum when tested

I have replaced all vacuum lines

Cleaned grounds.

checked and cleaned 14 pin connector.

checked battery ground strap for corrosion

new plugs, wires, cap and rotor.

Replaced fuel pump relay, replaced fuel injection relay, checked/cleaned starter relay.

I have exhausted my ideas and knowledge I am looking for suggestions.

Please please help it is starting to get me really frustrated.

Landseer

Have you put the crank at O/T (top dead center) and verified that he two timing gears are on they're repsective pointers?

I'm feeling like its out of time.

928 Is My Favorite Time of Day

Test the ignition coil, may be putting out weak or intermittent spark. Check the injectors, getting power to the injectors doesn't mean they aren't still clogged. After sitting so long not running you may have sucked up rust or something from the fuel tank. Good luck

Landseer

During the last 18 months or so, Wally outlined coil and coil resistor checks for somebody in great detail. Can't find them. Maybe it was for Iceman?

ThomO

Yeah I have been wondering if the timing jumped. I guess I have some time with the long weekend to get into that.

Thanks for the suggestion.

I will take the coil out and have it check at the O'Reilly by my house just to rule it out.

I am not so sure on the injectors since it went from running to not running over night like the flip of a switch I would think it would have run rough for a while first, but could be.

There was a guy, a lister that did injector cleaning I had seen in another post but I cannot find it now I was thinking about having the injectors cleaned just because any ideas who that is so I can contact him.

Thanks again for the assist, you guys always bring me back from the brink of giving up.

ThomO

So here is the latest.

I have replaced the coil with a new one no luck I was getting inconsistent readings so I just wanted to rule it out.

I checked the resistors and they were in spec.

I have verified that the timing belt has not jumped all of the marks line up as they should.

I ordered a new green distributor wire and will replace that when it comes in.

I am also expecting delivery of a new temp II sensor.

So I am back to the waiting on parts game

ThomO

Was not the Temp II sensor.

I am waiting to the 1st to order a new harness to go with the new green wire since the connector is missing from the orig harness.

Landseer

Missing? How does it connect? Cobble job?
You know, pictures would help!
And, as you change parts, go back through and do some of the other things like trying the jumpers.
The reason: If they sit a while, often the issues are nested.

Ethre

Which connector? With a soldering iron you should be able to replace the connectors.
The AMP connectors are sold as EV1. The main connector is pricier to get though.

A new harness could be nice though.