Glenn M

DR had a euro intake FS, don't know if he still has it.

Great job on the car!

I need to do this to my XKE.

karl ruiter

Looking Great! You will probably want to do the valve guides. I have only rebuild 3 928 motors, but they all needed guides. The gaskets that go between the cam carriers and the heads have a tendancy to blow out after about a year. Greg Brown has custom replacements that won't do this and he sells them for a rediculously low price. You will want to either put in a Porkensioner or a Gates/Porsche timing belt as the conti belts stretch when new and the stock tensioner does nothing to take up the slack.

U-928

"not any more!"

Keep up the good work. I do love MS, so I'm watching to see how this new MS3 works for you. I have plans to ditch L-Jet for it in the future.

BigAl1

I just realized yesterday that we have had the 928 for a year now, and it has gone through a lot of rebuilding/restoring in that time. The current stage is the engine reassembly, so of course I've been researching here for the little tricks. First detail I applied is to set the TDC before the heads go on, so I can be sure of #1 position. This will be important for my cam timing setup in the next few weeks. With 2 recent threads about torquing heads down, I was getting very confused about how to do it on my 4.7L Euro engine, until I finally read the Porsche spec as recommended by Greg Brown. The small tip here was sanding one side of the headnut washers to scuff the surface so it will grip the aluminum casting better and hopefully not spin during the tightening procedure. By following the Porsche spec about lightly lubing the stud threads and bearing face on the nuts, but keeping the washer to head casting joint dry, I had no problem with any washers spinning as I torqued to a final pass of 66ft/lbs. I ran around the pattern one more time at 68ft/lbs. just to confirm I didn't get a false reading from my wrench. It was a great moment for me to have the heads back on and no problems with studs yielding or washers spinning. VERY pleased with the evenings work. Once the base engine is back together, I will be starting another dedicated thread about my conversion to MS3X, and keeping this thread updated for the overall rebuild.

BigAl1

Pics say most of the story! I've been working away at the engine assy, trying to get to this point. I wanted to get the TB installed to see what the cam timing looked like and see if I need to get some of the offset keys from Mercedes. Well, both cam gears are 1/2 a tooth past the mark with the crank at TDC, so ~3.7deg BTDC. It's nice they are matched! I need to understand if MS3X can be adjusted for this, or do I need to do the correction with the offset cam keys? Got some learning to do....
The intake looks great, just cleaned really well and sprayed with a bright silver paint - thanks to Karl Ruiter for the "S" runners to complete the Euro S package. My pile of plated parts is shrinking - a very encouraging sign that I'm getting closer to engine install. But, before that happens, have all the conversion parts to install for MS3X setup. Got everything here, but still some machining to do for the injector sockets, the rails, and to mount the cam position sensor. Just waiting for my brackets, 36-1 tooth wheel, and cam wheel to come back from plating to start machining. After that the real fun begins when I build a complete new harness for the engine. The 14 pin connector will be gone, along with all the old ignition support parts and their related wiring. I'm trying to make the MS3X wiring as integrated as possible with the existing harness, and remove anything not required.

Mrmerlin

thats a very clean rebuild,
i hope it goes together perfectly and runs great

Don Carter

Just read through this thread or the first time... having played around with an 81 euro for about 8 years, and never getting it on the road, I'm in awe of what you have done. Amazing work. You are going to have a very special car when you are done.

BigAl1

Since the engine is now ready for wiring, I decided to start working on the car again with the goal of getting the car harness ready for the new engine harness. Another main goal is to renovate all the stuff in the cowl area behind the firewall, so started on tearing out the interior. First out were the seats, revealing a bunch of hack job wiring under the driver seat - I'm thinking an old stereo amp install? Also noted the seat rail bolts were 10mm hex head, not allen bolts, so suspecting there was some changes in the past. I keep finding hints like this of this car's past, so hopefully will be able to sort out the hacking and get things back into shape for my plan.
When I pulled out the passenger front carpet I found this grey box - I was surprised to find the original first aid kit untouched! Also got to see the CE panel for the first time - looks ok so far with just a little glue overspray at the left end. I saw one relay missing, so need to sort out why it is gone.
Next is to get the rear seats, rear quarters, and rear console out so I can start preserving them - the mildew is my big worry now. Probably because the shop is not heated until I work in it, and then I'm using propane heaters, so this can cause a lot of condensation on the still cold surfaces. I'm heading toward getting the dash out completely so the AC core is out for cleaning, reseal the blower box, and all the possible maintenance items throughout this area. I would like to create a flush center console setup with double DIN NAV stereo, LED updates, and black carbon fiber laminates to bring the look up to date. Not over the top, just aiming for what Porsche would do if they were still building these today. Anyway, back into the car for a while!

Ducman82

i see a busted fuse prong and fuse at the bottom of that pic of the CE panel.... what spot is that fuse thats missing for? nothing vital i hope

gbgastowers

here is what your ce should look like--yours looks complete. Gunar

4drgl

It's one hell of a lot of work isn't it??? I'm ready for paint... What a nightmare... The cars were very well built from the start. Rebuilding them from nose to tail takes some serious patience...

I'm rebuilding an 80, us, auto... head to tail... I even went to the extent of powerwashing the underbelly, and scrubbed shiny clean.. You're doing an awesome job. I pulled my tranny and "made" a seal for the front where it was leaking...

Nice work it'll all payoff when the engine starts for the first time!

Podguy

What looks like hacked wiring in your picture is factory wiring. The factory had a fader switch mounted near the hand brake. Why that choice and why it was not part of the radio even back in 1980 is beyond me. All the speakers wires run from the fader switch allowing the forward and rear speakers to be balanced. The side to side balance was on the factory radio. Most times when a new radio is installed the fade feature is built into the radio and this wiring become extra. On the newer cars the wiring went to the passenger's side to run an amplifer.

As you probably know the seats should be bolted in with some heavy metal brackets as nuts and low profile cap screws from the top. The large bracket prevents the seats from being detached in a rear collision and the driver and passenger from being sucked into the back seat and injured. The low profile cap bolts allow the the track to clear.

If you have mildew issues Griots Garage sells desicant packets to keep moisture from an interior while the car is stored. If you have mildew and given the age and type of insulation you should consider removing all of it and reinsulating and sound proofing the car. The new materials are much better and you will end up with a much quieter cabin.

An open pan of amonia left for a few days in a closed Interior will suck up a lot of bad smells.

Keep up the good work

BigAl1

Thanks guys. I'll have to research what the wiring under the drivers seat is for, probably just trace it when I get the rest of the dash out. I don't have a fader switch near the handbrake, only the headlight adjusting ****. IIRC the factory amp wiring was under the passenger seat, so this mess was a surprise to me. There is a small chipboard panel screwed down to the floorboard under the driver seat - looks older to me, but not sure if it is original. I want to get all the materials that can hold a smell out of the car, and start fresh, so stripping everything out - pretty much like the outside treatment last winter.

BigAl1

*&^@*$^!$^~!$ What a mess! Tape jobs, suitcase connectors, marrs nuts, crimps, plumbers tape..... The clock holder panel was mangled, then hidden behind a half decent homemade ABS panel, the trim part was broken and just glued back in place. The wiring and wood under the drivers seat was for a stereo amp, and have found the rear quarter speakers have been replaced at some point. Just stripping everything out and get it back to correct. The center console will have a flush style panel made, and move the stereo up and the HVAC down, so all the bad parts are not needed anyway.
Having said that, I'm still debating whether to remove the factory tunnel and rear seat sound/heat insulation. It actually seems to be in good shape, but not sure about any lingering smells yet until I have everything else out and can do a fresh nose test with some warmth inside the car. Carpet is gone, and will be replaced with new of course, but the seats actually look like they could be restored and have the stitching fixed to make them presentable. Going to try the Magic Eraser soon, after cleaning all the mildew first.

Podguy

Gee - I think I have seen this movie before.

http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/pr...ble/wiring.htm

I found some nice closed cell foam today. The black I am going to use with the fender slash guards. The white I am going to use inside the car. The plan is to spay the chassis with Lizard skin and paint, cover certain parts with Dyna Mat and then replace the floor mats with the closed cell foam. I think that should take out most of the road noise.

Interiors are always the most fun.

Good job