Rebuild of my 1980 Euro S
07-31-2016, 12:29 PM
#272
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Thread Starter
The last few weeks have been focused on the details to ready Bruce for first drive - quite a list of things to do. A complete alignment was the biggest item, so with the car on level risers, and the tools made, went to it using Capt. Earl's guide, and some garbage bags as slip plates. I know the ride height is still too high, but the goal here was to get it closer that it was - wheels were visibly out of camber and toe. The garbage bags worked great - not too slippery that the car could just slide off the risers (I had safety blocks trapping the tire motion anyway), but enough that adjustments show immediate results. Got toe and camber on the dot at this ride height, good enough to get it on the street and get the suspension to settle some more. Once settled, I'll take it to a shop that can handle this, along with the factory procedure.
I made a rack centering bolt by grinding a point on a M12 x 1.5 long wheel stud, so while that was in place, centered the steering wheel and installed the horn pad. Figuring while I'm inside, I trimmed and fitted my center console flush kit (it's only been 3 years waiting!). The WBO2 guage is bottom left, nicely readable from the driver seat, but not distracting. And, finally got my custom shift **** finished and installed! Feels good in the hand and works great. Neatened some wiring in the center console, eventually get a 2X DIN stereo installed, along with my v4 HVAC control for testing.
To drive the car, it needs seatbelts, so spent some time taking out the rear quarter panels, getting the belts installed. Thankfully they are still clean after the last battle with mildew. With new rosettes from Roger, belts are good to go! While the quarters were out, I replaced the tiny 4" hidden speakers with 6.5" Pioneer 2-way, they fit fine with no cutting of the steel behind - just had to carefully mark the location through the quarter panel before making the final size hole.
Back in the engine room, cleaned and installed the cool air flex ducts. These are a little tattered on the ends, so will get the tapered ones in the future. These fit with my taller fuel rails, but just barely. Still need to remake the shock tower crossbrace, but more of a winter project.
Under the car, I've had a nagging leak on the trans, and after a couple of wipe/wait days I think it was the rear piston cover seal was seaping, so ordered a seal from Roger. Made a long compression tool to press the cover in to release the snap ring, but found the pressure was almost nothing once it broke the age stiction. I could easily compress it with finger pressure. So, cover out and cleaned, orange o-ring replaced and oiled, surrounding area cleaned, and cover back in was just a few minutes job. Next was to replace the crush ring washers on the filler pipe to pan connection, and just to be safe, I dropped the pan for inspection. The system has run for maybe a total of 45 minutes since I had the trans out and drained/cleaned the pan years ago, so wanted to see if any particles were in the pan. Yep, some small bits and fine dust was settled there, so cleaned that all up, cleaned the seal surfaces and seal, then reinstalled the pan. Found new crush washers at the local tractor dealership, and got the correct torque for the banjo bolt from an old thread of mine from when I was putting the trans back together back in 2010 - this is a great site for info! (14-18ft/lbs BTW). Got it refilled, and topped up with the engine running, all looks good so far.
Yesterday was spent finding small details to fix, cleaning the glass for visibility, installing the headlight buckets, and rolling it outside for some time in the sun. As soon as Carolyn got home, we took Bruce out for a maiden trip - first time in almost 6 years it has been on the street, and first time Carolyn has ridden it it ever! Bruce ran great! The brakes are solid, the steering holds nice and straight, the trans shifts well, the temp only got to the middle of the gauge, and oil pressure was almost 5 with revs, or as low as 3 at idle after fully warmed up. No leaks, steam, smoke or flames! It was a great moment! I'm running Ducman's fuel maps, so it was a little rich for the 15 minutes we drove it, and have some cold start tuning to do, but overall very pleased with throttle response. Carolyn commented that not much wind buffeting inside with both windows down, and how comfortable the seats are - she likes this car! Actually, she was the one who pushed me to find a 928, and now she can say "Its running.".
Next is fixing the driver door window mechanism, carpeting, stereo, hvac control, ..... lots of things to find and fix. But it feels like a big mountain has been climbed, and can see nirvana within a short walk.
I made a rack centering bolt by grinding a point on a M12 x 1.5 long wheel stud, so while that was in place, centered the steering wheel and installed the horn pad. Figuring while I'm inside, I trimmed and fitted my center console flush kit (it's only been 3 years waiting!). The WBO2 guage is bottom left, nicely readable from the driver seat, but not distracting. And, finally got my custom shift **** finished and installed! Feels good in the hand and works great. Neatened some wiring in the center console, eventually get a 2X DIN stereo installed, along with my v4 HVAC control for testing.
To drive the car, it needs seatbelts, so spent some time taking out the rear quarter panels, getting the belts installed. Thankfully they are still clean after the last battle with mildew. With new rosettes from Roger, belts are good to go! While the quarters were out, I replaced the tiny 4" hidden speakers with 6.5" Pioneer 2-way, they fit fine with no cutting of the steel behind - just had to carefully mark the location through the quarter panel before making the final size hole.
Back in the engine room, cleaned and installed the cool air flex ducts. These are a little tattered on the ends, so will get the tapered ones in the future. These fit with my taller fuel rails, but just barely. Still need to remake the shock tower crossbrace, but more of a winter project.
Under the car, I've had a nagging leak on the trans, and after a couple of wipe/wait days I think it was the rear piston cover seal was seaping, so ordered a seal from Roger. Made a long compression tool to press the cover in to release the snap ring, but found the pressure was almost nothing once it broke the age stiction. I could easily compress it with finger pressure. So, cover out and cleaned, orange o-ring replaced and oiled, surrounding area cleaned, and cover back in was just a few minutes job. Next was to replace the crush ring washers on the filler pipe to pan connection, and just to be safe, I dropped the pan for inspection. The system has run for maybe a total of 45 minutes since I had the trans out and drained/cleaned the pan years ago, so wanted to see if any particles were in the pan. Yep, some small bits and fine dust was settled there, so cleaned that all up, cleaned the seal surfaces and seal, then reinstalled the pan. Found new crush washers at the local tractor dealership, and got the correct torque for the banjo bolt from an old thread of mine from when I was putting the trans back together back in 2010 - this is a great site for info! (14-18ft/lbs BTW). Got it refilled, and topped up with the engine running, all looks good so far.
Yesterday was spent finding small details to fix, cleaning the glass for visibility, installing the headlight buckets, and rolling it outside for some time in the sun. As soon as Carolyn got home, we took Bruce out for a maiden trip - first time in almost 6 years it has been on the street, and first time Carolyn has ridden it it ever! Bruce ran great! The brakes are solid, the steering holds nice and straight, the trans shifts well, the temp only got to the middle of the gauge, and oil pressure was almost 5 with revs, or as low as 3 at idle after fully warmed up. No leaks, steam, smoke or flames! It was a great moment! I'm running Ducman's fuel maps, so it was a little rich for the 15 minutes we drove it, and have some cold start tuning to do, but overall very pleased with throttle response. Carolyn commented that not much wind buffeting inside with both windows down, and how comfortable the seats are - she likes this car! Actually, she was the one who pushed me to find a 928, and now she can say "Its running.".
Next is fixing the driver door window mechanism, carpeting, stereo, hvac control, ..... lots of things to find and fix. But it feels like a big mountain has been climbed, and can see nirvana within a short walk.
01-22-2017, 09:47 PM
#275
Pro
Thread Starter
The January thaw has been here for a while now, and today caught a break, so spent some quality time on the 928. I've been looking a vinyl wrapping the car for my color change to Tahoe Blue, and have a sample coming to see how well it matches the already painted areas. With that in mind I wanted to look at the rust spots at the bottom of the rear quarter windows. Figuring they need to be fixed whether paint or wrap, I got to work on removing the rear spoiler side wings, then onto the quarter glass. The spoiler wings went pretty well, just need to find the screws hiding underneath, and be careful not to tear the rubber when it is pried up.
The glass removal was a battle royale though! It took 4 hours for me working alone to get the driver side glass out. I read up on the methods by searching here, and got some good tips about the process, but they didn't work for me. After the trim parts were off (that was easy), I worked a dull screwdriver under the rubber flange on the glass all around to break the age seal, then lubed it all with windex initially. I could push from the inside, but it would barely move. Next was to lube that same flange with vaseline, and push again - maybe a slight gain. I ended up prying the glass out of the rubber channel from the outside, working from the bottom front corner, up to the top front corner, then back along the hatch edge. I know your not supposed to pry on the glass edge, but I used a 1 1/4"wide aluminum ruler as my tool to spread out the load, and be softer than the glass. 2 pieces of that ruler allowed me to pry up a small spot, then work next to it, and keep moving around as the outside flange was pushed under the window. With the glass about 1/2 out of the rubber seal, I grabbed the window and gave a few tugs and twists, out it came! I soon learned why the usual method of pulling back the inside flange then pushing didn't work - the rubber channel had been glued to the body with a firm urethane adhesive. I'm guessing it was done during the repaint? But then they didn't remove other trims, only taping around them, and not well at that. One of the past mysteries on my car! Now that I know what to do, hopefully the other sides goes easier. Luckily no damage to the glass or seal, so will clean and condition for reuse.
The glass removal was a battle royale though! It took 4 hours for me working alone to get the driver side glass out. I read up on the methods by searching here, and got some good tips about the process, but they didn't work for me. After the trim parts were off (that was easy), I worked a dull screwdriver under the rubber flange on the glass all around to break the age seal, then lubed it all with windex initially. I could push from the inside, but it would barely move. Next was to lube that same flange with vaseline, and push again - maybe a slight gain. I ended up prying the glass out of the rubber channel from the outside, working from the bottom front corner, up to the top front corner, then back along the hatch edge. I know your not supposed to pry on the glass edge, but I used a 1 1/4"wide aluminum ruler as my tool to spread out the load, and be softer than the glass. 2 pieces of that ruler allowed me to pry up a small spot, then work next to it, and keep moving around as the outside flange was pushed under the window. With the glass about 1/2 out of the rubber seal, I grabbed the window and gave a few tugs and twists, out it came! I soon learned why the usual method of pulling back the inside flange then pushing didn't work - the rubber channel had been glued to the body with a firm urethane adhesive. I'm guessing it was done during the repaint? But then they didn't remove other trims, only taping around them, and not well at that. One of the past mysteries on my car! Now that I know what to do, hopefully the other sides goes easier. Luckily no damage to the glass or seal, so will clean and condition for reuse.
01-26-2017, 12:47 AM
#276
Pro
Thread Starter
I have since learned (via search) that these quarter window rubbers did have urethane adhesive factory applied to the body, so mystery solved. Spent a couple hours tonight while the warmer weather holds to remove the center section of my rubber spoiler, and the trim at the top of the hatch window. Was pleasantly surprised to find only a tiny bit of rust in the hatch rear next to the glass edge. A good cleaning will reveal the truth. Looks like the plastic spacer blocks for the spoiler screws were pushed into the glass sealant while still soft, so will have to be sure these are sealed properly when reassembled. Now I can tape off the openings and start cleaning and getting rid the rust on the quarters.
The rubber spoiler semi-gloss surface is flaking off in a few spots and cracked, so looking for fixes to restore mine. Back to Black seems most recommended, but not sure if it will solve the flaws I have now. All ideas welcome!
The rubber spoiler semi-gloss surface is flaking off in a few spots and cracked, so looking for fixes to restore mine. Back to Black seems most recommended, but not sure if it will solve the flaws I have now. All ideas welcome!
Great work!!
02-21-2017, 06:48 PM
#278
Pro
Thread Starter
Well along on the strip down to prep for wrapping! Got the rear bumper cover off - this is the last area I have not been into yet on the car, so lots of dirt and some rusty hardware to deal with. Got all the window trims off without any bending - pleased with that! Also got the rub strips off, but broke 1 threaded stud - not sure how to fix that yet. Searched here, but not finding anything about repairing that tiny stud.
Also got the rear hatch and hood removed, next is the fenders and front bumper cover. Since those have been off before, should be easy. Last will be the door trims and mirrors.
Also got the rear hatch and hood removed, next is the fenders and front bumper cover. Since those have been off before, should be easy. Last will be the door trims and mirrors.
08-22-2017, 10:30 PM
#279
Pro
Thread Starter
Tonight I spent an hour cleaning the RH door window lift system, replacing the roller wheel, and cleaned out all the old grease from the motor gearbox. Relubed with white lithium grease, ready to go back in.
I should have put my last post about cleaning the door glass over here under Rebuild - had forgotten about this thread! I'll try to keep them better sorted from now on.
I should have put my last post about cleaning the door glass over here under Rebuild - had forgotten about this thread! I'll try to keep them better sorted from now on.
09-09-2017, 01:22 AM
#281
Pro
Thread Starter
928 window switch hack! Since I lost one of the tiny silver ***** in one of my window switches, I needed a fix to get it ready to drive. I found a skateboard wheel bearing in my stash, hammered it until it shattered, and gathered up the 6 ball bearings. Got lucky as they are the same diameter as the original ball - as close as my fingers could feel anyway. Replaced the missing ball, snapped the switch rocker back on, and all is good again!
03-03-2021, 08:25 PM
#282
Pro
Thread Starter
Well, today is a good day for Bruce as he is off to a new owner named Ross. He is eager to get into the finishing details on the car, and I'm hoping he does it justice! Please give him a warm welcome!
03-10-2021, 01:07 PM
#283
Hi everyone, I'll be posting pictures and progress. Al did the heavy lifting, I get the stuff that's expensive
My list in order
-de-anodizing and polishing the manhole rims, find chrome/polished center caps with a colored logo
-new tires, should I stick to the original size? I would like to space the rear wheels out closer to the fender
-remove the wrap (that's happening next week)
-out for body work and paint, Al has a nice blue in the engine compartment, I'm going to go a little bluer (Minerva Blue Metallic) with lots of clear coat
-logo heat shield for the hood
-Interior last, lots of detail work here, recovering the seats are expensive but must be done.
Type to you all later
My list in order
-de-anodizing and polishing the manhole rims, find chrome/polished center caps with a colored logo
-new tires, should I stick to the original size? I would like to space the rear wheels out closer to the fender
-remove the wrap (that's happening next week)
-out for body work and paint, Al has a nice blue in the engine compartment, I'm going to go a little bluer (Minerva Blue Metallic) with lots of clear coat
-logo heat shield for the hood
-Interior last, lots of detail work here, recovering the seats are expensive but must be done.
Type to you all later
03-10-2021, 01:38 PM
#284
Welcome Ross! Good luck with finishing up the restoration. One suggestion. Anodized manholes are becoming more rare to find and platinum ones like the ones you have are the most rare. If you like manholes you can usually find a polished set for sale. I'd hang onto or sell the platinums.
03-10-2021, 01:41 PM
#285
Thanks GT, I'll do that cause it costs $300 per rim to polish anyways. The hunt is on! EBAY?
UPDATE: found them on EBAY for $600
UPDATE: found them on EBAY for $600
Last edited by RossSullivan; 03-10-2021 at 04:42 PM.