engine oil pan seep options?
#1
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engine oil pan seep options?
I dropped the bell housing to address a release arm bushing and clutch release issue.
Now that the starter and slave are out of the way it appears I might have a leak around the back edge of the oil pan.
Can/ should I check the bolts to ensure they are at correct torque or will I just make the issue worse by cranking down on what is likely an old seal?
Now that the starter and slave are out of the way it appears I might have a leak around the back edge of the oil pan.
Can/ should I check the bolts to ensure they are at correct torque or will I just make the issue worse by cranking down on what is likely an old seal?
#2
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Install a silicone gasket. This is a very typical problem with every 928 and everyone who buys a 928 should assume this needs to be done unless they have records for it.
#3
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Thread Starter
So if I understand the process correctly I need to tear allot of stuff apart to drop the oil pan or is it not that bad?
At this point I am still trying to get the car to move under it's own power to validate that I don't have some catostrophic hidden engine or transmission issue. I am trying to avoid major tear downs until I get a better level of confidence that this car is worth salvaging
At this point I am still trying to get the car to move under it's own power to validate that I don't have some catostrophic hidden engine or transmission issue. I am trying to avoid major tear downs until I get a better level of confidence that this car is worth salvaging
#4
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The steering rack, alternator and crossmember will need to be removed to access the oil pan. If all of these items are removed it's also a good time to change the motor mounts although being an earlier car you should check first to determine if you need them.
If you're trying to minimize how much repairs you perform you can check the torque as you originally noted but the odds are that the gasket has hardened and tightening the bolts will only be a temporary fix if at all.
If you're trying to minimize how much repairs you perform you can check the torque as you originally noted but the odds are that the gasket has hardened and tightening the bolts will only be a temporary fix if at all.
#5
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Thanks for the advice. I have done a bunch of work so far but will hold off on dropping the steering rack and doing the seal until I get it running and figure out what other leaks I likely have unless of course she gives me no choice and she has done that a few times already
#6
Team Owner
Jim just snug all of the pan bolts,
use the two finger to tighten them method,
if you see the cork press out then you have tightened too much
use the two finger to tighten them method,
if you see the cork press out then you have tightened too much
#7
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I am not a fan of the silicone gaskets.
They would be great if they had spacers in the bolt holes so you could get the bolts tight enough so they would not fall out.
They would be great if they had spacers in the bolt holes so you could get the bolts tight enough so they would not fall out.
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#8
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Wouldn't threadlock take care of this problem or are the temperatures too high for it to be a reliable fix?
#9
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Thanks Merlin. I looked in the WSM but did not see a specific TQ so assume standard TQ for the bolt size would work. I will clean the area up and give them a bit of a nudge.
#10
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I can see no way to get the bolts tight evenly and use any type of threadlock.
You can go over and over them with the engine on a stand before you get them all the same torque.
It takes me about a hour to do it on the stand.