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Fixed one problem, found another. First tow home.

 
Old 10-07-2010, 02:31 AM
  #16  
Hilton
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Originally Posted by Speedtoys View Post
Oh yes, absolutely, I want no part of this repair.
<flap arms>buck buck buck buck </flap>

Its not that hard.. buy a replacement end-tank, and have at it

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...placement.html

(yes, I have actually done it myself too.. twice as the first time I thought I could get away with just a new gasket radiator hasn't shed any coolant in over a year now )
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Old 10-07-2010, 02:48 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Hilton View Post
<flap arms>buck buck buck buck </flap>

Its not that hard.. buy a replacement end-tank, and have at it

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...placement.html

(yes, I have actually done it myself too.. twice as the first time I thought I could get away with just a new gasket radiator hasn't shed any coolant in over a year now )
The repair..sure, but I wanna get it cleaned out. Its been sitting for some time.


Whats the sizes of the cooler fittings? Theyre huuuge.

Could not break them free with two adjustable spanners..so I will go buy proper wrenches.

Well..there goes taking it in tomorrow, and runnin again tomorrow night.
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Old 10-07-2010, 02:57 AM
  #18  
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you will need 32 mm and 27mm wrenches. But you will also need a 30mm wrench too so get it while you are out.

I do these repairs myself.
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:23 AM
  #19  
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Holy crap, this is bad luck. I hope my luck with my S4 is much better; it went to shop today for much TLC.

Can this radiator separation deal be foreseen by examination?

-Sean
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:24 AM
  #20  
Lizard928
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This is the first time I have heard about it blowing apart.
Normally the seal starts to weep and you just need to top up the system every now and then.
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:28 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Lizard931 View Post
This is the first time I have heard about it blowing apart.
Normally the seal starts to weep and you just need to top up the system every now and then.

Ya..ive had zero, nada..drips of any fluid whatsoever other than repairing a split hose over the weekend, on the cardboard that I park on just to watch and wait for them to show up...which they will.

Cruising along..then wow..massive loss of power, runs like crap..smellin A/F...pull over. Key off, temp guage normal..steam.

Under hood theres water up and down the pass side of the engine..dist cap is soaked..explains poor running, and water pourin out the bottom.

Let sit, let cool, fired it up for 5sec once juuust to make sure, and once dried out, it ran just fine. Towed home.

This may have been previously repaired or something, theres a white sealant/etc up and down the tank where it crimps to the core.
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Old 10-07-2010, 03:37 AM
  #22  
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Right now I'm kinda wishing for my 944's solid aluminum rad.

This is just one of many new ugly things I need to watch for with this car that is not part of the 944 lexicon.
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Old 10-07-2010, 10:31 AM
  #23  
Mike LaBranche
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Dude... I feel your pain. Unfortunately, fairly common failure. The stock rads are a significant weak spot, plastic side tanks, glued on and they're all starting to fail at this stage. You have some options...

1. fix this rad with new tanks (talk to Polar Rad Service in Santa Cruz 831-432-8100);
2. you may be able to fix this rad with existing tanks, not recommended, probably fail soon thereafter;
3. cut to the chase, get an AL rad from 928Intl or 928Motorsports, be done with this problem.

I'm running a C&R from 928Intl, buddy has the one from 928MS, both excellent quality rads. Also a great time to change the coolant, no telling how long it's been in there. hth
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Old 10-07-2010, 01:04 PM
  #24  
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Mike,
both 928intl, and 928srus carry replacement end tanks with new seals.

The end tanks themselves normally do not fail, but should be replaced when doing this service, as in order to save the radiator core it is best to anneal the aluminium first which will melt the tank.
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Old 10-07-2010, 02:23 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Speedtoys View Post
Absolutely, I didnt expect it to run a -week-, a week ago. So a blown end tank, I can still take with a smile.

Not sure how I was supposed to foretell this event, however. If I follow a previous post correctly.

I mean, I could just ask the parts counter to build me a new car, that'd certainly get the maintenance all caught up.
Thats the whole point - Unless you spend major coin on a PPI and have them test EVERYTHING possible. It's just not going to happen.

IF the tank is blown - Id go aftermarket - possibly even a Ron Davis Radiator. A little bit on the high side but its worth the coin ...

http://www.rondavisradiators.com/Radiators.htm

Thank goodness - The Devek racing radiator I have in my track shark still rocks.

When one door shuts - another opens!
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Old 10-11-2010, 01:27 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Mike LaBranche View Post
Dude... I feel your pain. Unfortunately, fairly common failure. The stock rads are a significant weak spot, plastic side tanks, glued on and they're all starting to fail at this stage. You have some options...

1. fix this rad with new tanks (talk to Polar Rad Service in Santa Cruz 831-432-8100);
2. you may be able to fix this rad with existing tanks, not recommended, probably fail soon thereafter;
3. cut to the chase, get an AL rad from 928Intl or 928Motorsports, be done with this problem.

I'm running a C&R from 928Intl, buddy has the one from 928MS, both excellent quality rads. Also a great time to change the coolant, no telling how long it's been in there. hth
Im on the way to Polar today...theyre right next door to my race car fabricator too..so thats handy.



I
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Old 10-11-2010, 02:45 PM
  #27  
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Funny enough, got my S4 back on Friday from CT, drove it as much as I could this weekend.

Guess what? I keep finding little drips of coolant under the front, I checked carefully and they are coming from the joint between the radiator end tank and the core. It's only a couple of drops during cool-down, but let's face it, it's not going to get better, is it?

On the plus side, the car is running fantastic. New TB, WP, MMs, pan gasket.

New hoses and radiator are on order. I found a new OEM one for $850. I figured with $220 for the end tanks with shipping, plus the fact it'll probably cost $300 for installation at Bay Area rates, might as well get the new one.

My radiator has the date 10-5-03 on it in that pen that breakers yards use. Guess 7 years isn't bad for, what, $200 it must have cost?
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Old 10-11-2010, 03:27 PM
  #28  
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FWIW the PS end tank usually fails along the top edge it fails due to the small air pocket created since the tank is above the cores and there isnt any way for the coolant to fill the pocket, plus it sees the highest coolant temps.
The continual flexing of the plastic eventually cracks the sealing edge
This can be verified next time you remove the PS end tank you will se a small area of white crust just next to the top of the tank inside the tank.
If the coolant has been changed frequently then the radiator cores will most probably be clean and only require a new tank fitted.
The DS end tank rarely fails.
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Old 10-11-2010, 05:08 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by S4ordie View Post
Others have done it................. still doing it..........
Dan don't forget the cad plating on those new parts....
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Old 10-11-2010, 05:16 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Speedtoys View Post
Ya, figured it'd be a good time for a cleaning of the core as well..an opportunity has presented itself...
They can flush it out, but our cores use flat rectangular channels, so I was told at least they can't be "rodded" out. Many have sediment, so the flushing is worthwhile, maybe some kind of hot tank.

OTOH I think I would just buy a good radiator.
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