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Oil Pump Install / Priming

 
Old 10-05-2010, 04:17 PM
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aaddpp
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Default Oil Pump Install / Priming

I am about to put my oil pump back in as part of the TB service, but there have a been a few threads recently on pump priming that got me wondering if I am doing things the right way. Search has answered most of my questions, but a few live on. I've added my procedures below so you know whats been done.

I followed the rebuild procedures from hessank (https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...with-pics.html) adding a bit of Dow Corning 111 to the o-rings per Mr. Merlin's suggestion in a separate thread. I did replace the front seal since I had one handy. All moving parts were lubed up very well with engine assembly lube prior to assembly, and it all went back together as its should.

Now its time to put the pump back in. Per hessank's thread I was planning to fill the pump cavities with STP, and put the pump back where it lives.

Note: The car has been up on jack stands since late June...my schedule has brought progress on the Engine Mount / TB / Intake Refresh to a slow crawl so it could be a couple of more months before I drive it.

Here's were I could use a few pointers:

1. Right now I have a dry oil pan b/c I have not refilled it following the oil pan gasket refresh / motor mount refresh. I am wondering if it matters if the pan is dry when the oil pump (with cavities filled with STP) goes back in. Will the pump loose its prime / have the cavities empty down into the pan?

2. I have the cam covers off for a refresh and am waiting for replacement o-rings for the check valve. Once I have the pump in, should I hand turn it to see if it will send oil up into the heads and cam shafts?

3. Anything other suggestions to make sure I have oil flow and pressure before I start things up?

Thanks,
Dave
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Old 10-05-2010, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by aaddpp View Post
I am about to put my oil pump back in as part of the TB service, but there have a been a few threads recently on pump priming that got me wondering if I am doing things the right way. Search has answered most of my questions, but a few live on. I've added my procedures below so you know whats been done.

I followed the rebuild procedures from hessank (https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...with-pics.html) adding a bit of Dow Corning 111 to the o-rings per Mr. Merlin's suggestion in a separate thread. I did replace the front seal since I had one handy. All moving parts were lubed up very well with engine assembly lube prior to assembly, and it all went back together as its should.

Now its time to put the pump back in. Per hessank's thread I was planning to fill the pump cavities with STP, and put the pump back where it lives.

Note: The car has been up on jack stands since late June...my schedule has brought progress on the Engine Mount / TB / Intake Refresh to a slow crawl so it could be a couple of more months before I drive it.

Here's were I could use a few pointers:

1. Right now I have a dry oil pan b/c I have not refilled it following the oil pan gasket refresh / motor mount refresh. I am wondering if it matters if the pan is dry when the oil pump (with cavities filled with STP) goes back in. Will the pump loose its prime / have the cavities empty down into the pan?

2. I have the cam covers off for a refresh and am waiting for replacement o-rings for the check valve. Once I have the pump in, should I hand turn it to see if it will send oil up into the heads and cam shafts?

3. Anything other suggestions to make sure I have oil flow and pressure before I start things up?

Thanks,
Dave
Landseer and I just did this on 87 last week. we did the things your doing without the STP . Chris may want to chime in but I think thats all we did. Great oil pressure after filling it with oil. Of course this was proactive as my oil pressure was good before the refresh.
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Old 10-05-2010, 10:40 PM
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I strongly suggest to use STP in the oil pump prior to installing it, .
Make absolutely sure that the outer ring gear of the pump is correctly positioned.
The correct way is to have both of the dots in the gears facing the engine, the second thing is that the outer edge of the one side of the gear has a bevel on it this MUST face to the front of the car otherwise the pump will seize,

use a liberal amount of STP in the pump, then fill the crank case and fill the oil filter, remove the sparkplugs and crank till the oil pressure light goes out.

if you have a metal gear then the 1mm spacer is removed.
if you use the aluminum gear the spacer is used
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Old 10-05-2010, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin View Post
I strongly suggest to use STP in the oil pump prior to installing it, .
Make absolutely sure that the outer ring gear of the pump is correctly positioned.
The correct way is to have both of the dots in the gears facing the engine, the second thing is that the outer edge of the one side of the gear has a bevel on it this MUST face to the front of the car otherwise the pump will seize,

use a liberal amount of STP in the pump, then fill the crank case and fill the oil filter, remove the sparkplugs and crank till the oil pressure light goes out.

if you have a metal gear then the 1mm spacer is removed.
if you use the aluminum gear the spacer is used
+1 on the STP. Works great. I just replaced my oil pump and primed it by putting an electric drill on it, obviously before putting the T-Belt back on. Make sure you turn it clockwise.

Merlin, about the 1mm spacer. I've noticed you've mentioned this before in other threads and I wonder why.

Before I put the new steel gear on the oil pump this time I measured the offset of both the old aluminum gear and the new steel gear and the offsets are exactly the same. They look like they are different but they are actually the same.

I put mine back with the 1mm spacer and the belt sits perfectly on the gear.

Maybe they changed the new steel gears to be the same as the old aluminum ones?

Thoughts?
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by aaddpp View Post
1. Right now I have a dry oil pan b/c I have not refilled it following the oil pan gasket refresh / motor mount refresh. I am wondering if it matters if the pan is dry when the oil pump (with cavities filled with STP) goes back in. Will the pump loose its prime / have the cavities empty down into the pan?

2. I have the cam covers off for a refresh and am waiting for replacement o-rings for the check valve. Once I have the pump in, should I hand turn it to see if it will send oil up into the heads and cam shafts?

3. Anything other suggestions to make sure I have oil flow and pressure before I start things up?

Thanks,
Dave
When I did mine in April, I used a lot of engine assembly lube on the guts of the pump; and also filled it with STP before I put it back in the engine. If you're only using STP and then waiting a while 'til you start it up, AND not use some kind of lube, that seems like a bad idea to me--as you said, I think all of the STP will drain out. THe lube will stick though... BTW - As Mr. Merlin said, make sure the inner gear is in there correctly. It has a dimple on one side (and ref'd in the WSM). Good luck! / Bruce
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:23 AM
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A little lube on the gears and they self prime. Better to fill them though.
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Old 10-06-2010, 03:42 PM
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Thanks all. Sounds like the system will probably take care of itself with some assembly lube and STP for good measure. Will still go the cranking route just for added good measure.

Thanks again,
Dave
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Old 10-06-2010, 09:33 PM
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Bob U. if you read the WSM it says to remove the 1mm spacer if the steel oil pump gear is used, if you want to leave it on feel free it will move the oil pump gear out 1MM
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Old 10-06-2010, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin View Post
Bob U. if you read the WSM it says to remove the 1mm spacer if the steel oil pump gear is used, if you want to leave it on feel free it will move the oil pump gear out 1MM
I hear what you are saying, but with the offsets being the same, not putting the 1mm washer back in will cause the gear to sit 1mm back, which is not good at all because it will put the belt too close to the front edge of the gear.

Do you or someone else happen to have both gears handy so you can confirm or deny my measurements?

I just remeasured the offset (rear offset) on the aluminum gear that I have and it is 17.60mm. I put a straight edge across the back of the gear and measured to the rear side of the center hub, then subtracted the width of the straight edge.

Last edited by underdog928; 10-06-2010 at 09:57 PM. Reason: can't type
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