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part needed - metal line to clutch slave

 
Old 10-04-2010, 10:05 PM
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Sab
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Default part needed - metal line to clutch slave

I have my '82 on the lift and need a part to finish up and hopefully finally go on the track.
It's only a $20 part, but it is out of stock and I just finished ordering the wrong one that finally came from Germany.

So does anyone have one in the spare parts bin or has a donor car that it can be removed from?

Small line about a foot long that goes from the from the rubber clutch line around the starter under the oil pan and mounts to the clutch slave cylinder.

thanks,
Sab
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Old 10-04-2010, 10:23 PM
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jon928se
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If you've still got the old one have a brake shop make one up for you using the old end fittings and new 1/4" cunifer brake pipe.
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Old 10-04-2010, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jon928se View Post
If you've still got the old one have a brake shop make one up for you using the old end fittings and new 1/4" cunifer brake pipe.
Pardon my ignorance, but what is cunifer brake pipe?
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Old 10-04-2010, 10:45 PM
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Cunifer

Copper Nickel alloy brake tubing

http://www.cunifer.com/?page=home
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Old 10-04-2010, 10:48 PM
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karl ruiter
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I took the ends of mine to a hydraulics shop and had them make me a braided steel hose that goes all the way from the master to the slave. I think the cost was $40 or so.
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Old 10-04-2010, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by karl ruiter View Post
I took the ends of mine to a hydraulics shop and had them make me a braided steel hose that goes all the way from the master to the slave. I think the cost was $40 or so.
that sounds like a good idea.
How long is the whole line? I guess I ca use fittings from the broken piece.
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Old 10-04-2010, 11:07 PM
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on the 928 Estate we had lots of lines redone by the local hydraulic shop...cheaper than stock too!!
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Old 10-05-2010, 01:05 AM
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you can make the lines with a regular brake line flair tool just use the flat side instead of the countersunk side just clamp the tube alittle higher and use the double flair starting tool to make the bubble flair works awsome.
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Old 10-05-2010, 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by karl ruiter View Post
I took the ends of mine to a hydraulics shop and had them make me a braided steel hose that goes all the way from the master to the slave. I think the cost was $40 or so.
When you installed the braided line, did you follow the same route as the stock hydraulic, or do something different to avoid the line passing between the oil pan and the starter.

Dave
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Old 10-05-2010, 04:57 PM
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karl ruiter
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Sab- I just took them the whole broken old assembly and said to make to 6" longer (as spare).
Dave- I ran it between the oil pan and starter, I think. Now that I have the car running I need to go
back and look at the routing again. I am always concerned about braided steel hose. It is very tough but will eat through anything it touches where it is moving. I think the thing to do is the tie it the the motor in the stock location (at the hoist point) and have the moving line very controlled between the master and that point. Though, since I have a little extra length, I might tie the fixed side to the fire wall somehow rather than having it just go back to the master. I am an electrical guy, so always worried about strain relief.
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