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Back from the dyno - VIDEO ADDED

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Old 09-16-2010, 10:22 AM
  #31  
andy-gts
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Nice numbers Ted, I am sure its a fun ride!
Old 09-16-2010, 11:03 AM
  #32  
Mike Frye
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Does anyone else think it's weird that the video shows the front straps holding the car through the wheels?

Isn't that going to do bad things to your suspension?
Old 09-16-2010, 11:09 AM
  #33  
Rick Carter
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Originally Posted by Cosmo Kramer
Only thing I am going to add is a vacuum switch to kick the LH into open loop. This will switch it to open loop as soon as it crosses from vacuum to boost instead of stock setup of having to wait until 3/4 throttle. That will eliminate the lean tip in.
Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
Yep... it will. Super simple to do too.
I'd like to know how to do this.
Old 09-16-2010, 11:24 AM
  #34  
BReyes
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Nice and easy! At least you make it sound easy. I like the plan to keep it reliable.

High performance and long term reliability is the best benefit Porsche can provide. Good mod the SC. It takes her to another level. Thanks posting some numbers.

As always, now that its sorted what (other car) to do.

Regards,
Old 09-16-2010, 11:41 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Mike Frye
Does anyone else think it's weird that the video shows the front straps holding the car through the wheels?

Isn't that going to do bad things to your suspension?
That's very common, at the track we use the stationary cars to hold the canopies down via their wheels.

If you didn't use the wheels you would most likely tie the car down with the lower control arms anyway. On an S this could put pressure on the lower spoiler.
Old 09-16-2010, 11:41 AM
  #36  
Cosmo Kramer
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Not too much force going backwards, just holds it from bouncing back when it shifts gears. Tow trucks do the same thing.

The switch just ties into the WOT wire going to the LH and the other side of the switch goes to ground. Under vacuum the switch is open, at 0 vacuum it closes and puts the LH into open loop.

One of these switches will work, I just need to contact them to make sure I get the right spec. The have a high/low vacuum port, I guess you can just cap the low port and T a vacuum line to the high port.

http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/pro...-OP&CMP=AFC-OP
Old 09-16-2010, 12:41 PM
  #37  
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With a vacuum switch, you'll need a cutout for when the engine is cranking, or the LH may go into flood clear mode.

Check with Alan or someone more knowledgeable, but I think the simplest way to do this, without using a relay, may be to connect the ground of your vacuum switch to the (purple?) starter wire through a large resistor.


A fancier way would be to use the MAP sensor in the EZF. There is a 0-5v output from it on (the empty) pin 21. Use a voltage switch to trigger the WOT.

(Jaycar Voltage Switch)

I'd like to have the frequency switch from there for a road speed trigger.
Old 09-16-2010, 01:04 PM
  #38  
Cosmo Kramer
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The one I was looking at was adjustable for pressure (should have mentioned that!), so if it was set to close at say 1 psi it wouldn't go to WOT while cranking.

Originally Posted by PorKen
With a vacuum switch, you'll need a cutout for when the engine is cranking, or the LH may go into flood clear mode.

Check with Alan or someone more knowledgeable, but I think the simplest way to do this, without using a relay, may be to connect the ground of your vacuum switch to the (purple?) starter wire through a large resistor.


A fancier way would be to use the MAP sensor in the EZF. There is a 0-5v output from it on (the empty) pin 21. Use a voltage switch to trigger the WOT.

(Jaycar Voltage Switch)

I'd like to have the frequency switch from there for a road speed trigger.
Old 09-16-2010, 01:11 PM
  #39  
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Oops, I didn't read your post carefully (still nursing my first coffee).
Old 09-16-2010, 01:14 PM
  #40  
Mike Frye
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
That's very common, at the track we use the stationary cars to hold the canopies down via their wheels.

If you didn't use the wheels you would most likely tie the car down with the lower control arms anyway. On an S this could put pressure on the lower spoiler.
Gotcha. I've only been to the dyno a few times but I'd never seen it done like that.

Originally Posted by Cosmo Kramer
Not too much force going backwards, just holds it from bouncing back when it shifts gears. Tow trucks do the same thing.
<snip>
When they strap it down they have to tighten up on the fronts and(or) backs to hold it down on the dyno drum. I just thought that was a bad angle. I guess if you can tow a car by the wheels you can pull forward on them without doing any damage.

We now return you to your regularly scheduled thread.
Old 09-16-2010, 02:00 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Cosmo Kramer
On the street I am in the 12's in I go WOT at low rpm.
Are you logging the WBO2, or just looking at a gauge when you see the 12's? The 'acceleration pump' shot will look like it's getting rich, but it doesn't last for very long.


Originally Posted by Cosmo Kramer
Yes, bit of a dog for the first few seconds but after that hang on.
The AFR curve looks like a typical S3 at WOT with the stock chipset. Close to 14's at 2500 getting richer as rpms go up. Might be able to make it perkier off the line by richening up the WOT map at low rpms until the boost kicks in. Max N/A torque is at 2700.

If dyno guy was in closed loop at the beginning, it would have likely been in the 15-16's (or worse) to start?
Old 09-16-2010, 02:26 PM
  #42  
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the numbers are good, the curves are not that good. flat torque is not what you want. you want flat HP.
that curve is exactly the same as the peaky HP of a GT3cup car. (flat torque curve)

I have almost the exact same HP with a flat HP curve. the effect is a lot more torque down low and more ave HP. is there a way to increase the boost in the lower range and taper it off toward the top?

Mk
Originally Posted by mickster
Very nice numbers! Love those curves!
Old 09-16-2010, 02:29 PM
  #43  
Cosmo Kramer
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Originally Posted by PorKen
Are you logging the WBO2, or just looking at a gauge when you see the 12's? The 'acceleration pump' shot will look like it's getting rich, but it doesn't last for very long.


The AFR curve looks like a typical S3 at WOT with the stock chipset. Close to 14's at 2500 getting richer as rpms go up. Might be able to make it perkier off the line by richening up the WOT map at low rpms until the boost kicks in. Max N/A torque is at 2700.

If dyno guy was in closed loop at the beginning, it would have likely been in the 15-16's (or worse) to start?
Just looking at the gauge, but it isn't just the accelerator enrichment. My FMU adds about 10 psi starting at 2 hg, but in closed loop the O2 is trying to maintain stoich, but loses the battle somewhat and it ends up in the mid - high 13's. If it is taken out of the equation it will be much better.

My old FMU, a standard Vortech unit, didn't add any fuel until about 2 psi and it was crazy lean at tip in, 15-16 just like you were saying.

Originally Posted by mark kibort
is there a way to increase the boost in the lower range and taper it off toward the top?

Mk
Welcome to the world of a centrifugal supercharger! They build boost with RPM unlike a roots or twin screw that give it to you right away.
Old 09-16-2010, 02:30 PM
  #44  
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Its nice that it is smooth and consistant. crossing at 340hp means nothing. Its a peakyHP, flat torque curve. nothing good about it. whats good, is that he is at 370hp! thats good!

Originally Posted by bwmac
Wow that is a nice HP TQ curve. look, they cross right around 340 HP
Old 09-16-2010, 02:36 PM
  #45  
AO
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Originally Posted by Rick Carter
I'd like to know how to do this.
Wouldn't we all...

Mine is adjsutable just the ine Ted is talking about.

Basically you use this pressure switch to tell the LH that you are in WOT mode. Don't touch the EZK. Then when you hit any amount of boost it switches to the WOT map and... BAMN! you're at 12.0 AFR. No tip in.

There's a particular name for these switches, but I forget. Toumov mentioned it in a recent (1 month) thread.


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