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Motor Mounts Done! Oil Pan Gasket Not!

 
Old 08-16-2010, 01:32 PM
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Dennis Burford
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Default Motor Mounts Done! Oil Pan Gasket Not!

Hi guys,

I pretty much just lurk here, this forum is such a great resource, but thought I'd post some thoughts on motor mounts change out in my home garage.

I got the anchor solid mounts, 2698SR. My originals were collapsed, and have been that way for over three years, since I bought the car, and I knew it but the quote to repair by the inspecting mechanic was, like, OMG! Being a fairly good mechanic all my life I figured I could handle it, and I finally got around to it this weekend.

For those attempting this, I spent upwards of 10 hours on my back - not fun! Next time I'll pay a friend a 100 bucks to use his lift, even if he won't take it, well worth being able to stand under the car.

Thoroughly steam/pressure clean the engine compartment first, especially the underside. I had 24 years of gagh to contend with, I was black from head to toe both Saturday (5 hours to disassemble) and Sunday (5 hours to reassemble, plus another hour futzing with starter top bolt, clutch master cylinder and feed tubing before I threw in the towel on the oil pan gasket). I do learn - and Sunday I wore long sleeves, and long pants, to reduce the amount of black grease coated skin I would have to scrub. I also wore mechanic's gloves most of the job.

Breaker bar - I think John Pirtle's narration recommended the breaker bar. It is mandatory. I needed my 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and both feet to crack the 19mm bolts for the first time in 24 years.

Floor jacks, have more than one. I have two, a large 2.5 ton and a smaller 1 ton. I'm going to get another 2.5 ton, it'll just makes jacking the car that much easier, one on each side. I used the small floor jack with wood blocks to raise the engine. I raised it nearly 2inches, an inch to where it should have been resting, and then nearly another inch higher. I had to undo the engine brace on top to do this. When I started to contemplate the oil pan gasket, I used the 4x4 support and strong ratcheting cargo strap around the damper at the front of the engine, and a floor jack w/wood at the bell housing. This freed up a ton of room under the car. Also, I had completely removed the sway bar, it was constantly in the way. After futzing with the starter, clutch master and lines for over a half hour, and looking at what else needed to come off for the oil pan removal, I decided I did not have another 5-6 hours left in me (this looks to me to be a worse job than the motor mounts!), and my car is a daily driver so she needed to be finished on Sunday. My current oil pan gasket doesn't leak, so I'll just save my silicon gasket (thanks Roger) for another time when I have access to a lift and have cleaned the engine compartment.

Engine now sits much higher, rock a little on throttle, and there is less vibration into the cabin, very nice. Below is the obligatory photo of collapsed versus replacement mount.
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Old 08-16-2010, 01:50 PM
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Jadz928
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Dennis,
Well done! I like the obligatory pic.

How about another pic of this white gold beauty?
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:15 PM
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Hi Jim,

OK, here's another pic of the car, as well as three pics of engine jacking during the MM change, for those who might be curious.
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:34 PM
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Nice! Thanks.

IMHO your jackstands were used in an area to which they were not intended. I was curious as to how you were able to use two jacks at a time.

Now, I understand the Porsche recommended method of jacking appears to be precarious, which it is. It works.
I suggest following the recommended procedure or get a set of liftbars.
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:35 PM
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From this picture those look like anchor fluid filled mounts (black on the bottom) solids are metal (gold) on the bottom most of the time. Anchor was sending out liquid mounts(2698) in the 2698SR box for awhile. You'd have to shake them to tell if you go the right ones.

Last edited by blitz928; 06-28-2013 at 02:16 PM.
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:53 PM
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Dennis Burford
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Hi Jim, Jackstands are just inside lift points on the frame, they seem to do fine there, but I get what you are saying. Lift bars would be great but I am on a very limited budget, so I do with what I have for the moment.

Hi Matt, I ordered my mounts online, got one that was solid and when shook could hear a little water, and one that was marked 2698H in a 2698SR box, and when shook made no noise. So I found ONE other mount locally at my Napa store, drove up there, and fortunately it was a solid mount as well, water slosh when shook. The online mounts were both made in India, and both had black bottoms. The Napa mount had the gold bottom, was in DEA box, that, as part of the printed box label, had Made in China on it. Hopefully these mounts will prove to be long lasting.
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:55 PM
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Nothing but fun, eh?
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Old 08-16-2010, 03:00 PM
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Just one of the reasons I was not able to make the fun run to Laguna Seca this past weekend with my fellow NorCal 928'ers.
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Old 08-16-2010, 03:25 PM
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Dennis--

Great story and info. I don't think there's such a thing as "too clean" foe that under engine area prior to starting this job. Mine was 'pretty clean' when I started and I still got slimed. A few others since have included a much more serious and focussed clreaning effort, and a lot less slime. Some engine cleaner, detergent, orange clean, pressure washer, simple green and the garden hose, in that order, did a lot of good under the later project cars.

I did not need to remove the cross-brace on my S4, but did remove the whole air-cleaner housing for clearance at the firewall. Rob Edwards in the local Socal group here has one of the cross-bar engine holders. It looks like the timber and ratchet strap did pretty much the same duty. I did the pan gasket with the engine supported on the sides at the motor mount area after removing all but a few sump bolts. Up to that point the engine was supported on a block under the sump, with a scissors jack. After seeing Rob's support from above with all the extra room freed up underneath, my vote goes towards one of those if you can swing it.

Folks keep bringing up the top starter bolt as a challenge on the 928. I just don't remember that being an issue. The bolt comes free with a long Allen key and a big box wrench wrapped around the bend for leverage. Comes out the rest of the way with an Allen driver on a ball-end swivel extension. The slav comes off the bellhousing completely, with the hard line, in concert with starter removal.

I think I had over 9 working hours from start to finish on the first one, and could shave an hour or two off the next time using the power tools a bit more. A universal impact socket set is in the collection now, making the two bolts on the brackets at the sides of the frame rails easier.
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Old 08-16-2010, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Dennis Burford View Post
Just one of the reasons I was not able to make the fun run to Laguna Seca this past weekend with my fellow NorCal 928'ers.
You did miss an INCREDIBLE event. Just walking around the paddock, seeing FORTY Buggatti's from the 20s and 30s under one tent and then 28 of them out on the track later that afternoon led by the new Buggatti Super Sport - WOW!
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Old 08-16-2010, 06:07 PM
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<Sigh> Maybe next year...
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Old 08-16-2010, 06:14 PM
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I kind of like having worn out MM's. I can feel everything the engine is doing. I'm fairly certain I've got at least one bad injector, the engine does not rev smoothly. It's rough, and feels imbalanced.
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Old 08-17-2010, 10:58 AM
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Just finished my mounts yesterday. Besides the dirt and general muscle soreness, I have two cuts on my forehead from hardware falling off and hitting me in the face!
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Old 08-17-2010, 11:03 AM
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Harbor Freight sells these for $9.99...
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Old 08-17-2010, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Elmiko View Post
Just finished my mounts yesterday. Besides the dirt and general muscle soreness, I have two cuts on my forehead from hardware falling off and hitting me in the face!
You got off easy. I enjoyed finishing one MM/OPG job only to look down and see one of the mount lower plates sitting on the ground.
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