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Yet another top-end refresh (WAS: Trying to fix irregular/poor idle ...)

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Old 09-20-2010, 12:03 PM
  #61  
Ed Scherer
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Question

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
I dont know what the bonding agent that you spected, but the Honda dealer has the HB4 its about 10.00 a tube.
I've seen references to Drei ("Three") Bond 1209 as being a great sealant — do a web search on it (maybe along with hondabond and yamabond); they might even be the same thing.

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
Call 928INTL ask them for the block off plate it goes under the fill tube and has a plate that blocks oil being flung up to the bottom of the fill tube, this will reduce the chance of oil leaking from the fill tube and aid in oil drainback into the sump.
Is this needed even with the GTS filler neck that I'll be using?

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
I used the HB4 on both sides of this plate and also added a small bead to the O ring to assist in sealing the O ring and fill tube mount to the plate.
OK, noted, thanks!

worf928 (Dave C.) also mentioned (reference 1, reference 2, reference 3) resealing the GTS filler neck with black RTV; I'll be doing that, too.

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
By all means replace the CPS then your good to go for another 20 years, plus its a lot easier to work with the intake removed, soak the part in PB blaster before you try to remove it it may be a bit tight coming out of the engine .
OK, will do. One more parts order...
Old 09-20-2010, 09:02 PM
  #62  
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For the record, the "928INTL block off plate" that Stan (Mrmerlin) mentioned is 928 107 707 05 at 928 International, pictured below. One is on its way.

Once again, thanks for the timely tip, Stan.

Old 09-20-2010, 09:10 PM
  #63  
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I would use the HB4 instead of the RTV it resists oil better than the RTV does and use a bead of it on both side of the plate and on the O ring on the fill tube ge generous The DRI could also be a substitute for the HB4
Old 09-21-2010, 12:06 AM
  #64  
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Cool Life is sweet when you have the right tool for the job!

A few posts back, I mentioned:

Originally Posted by Ed Scherer
Putting the throttle body back together again with lots of new parts (throttle arm bearings, ISV, GTS-style throttle position switch, flappy actuator, etc.) A bearing puller is coming tomorrow that I think will make removing the small needle bearings really easy.
Well, the "blind hole bearing puller" that I ordered from T-Vac Tools last week, did, in fact arrive today and it works!

You still need to pry the needle bearing cage and pins out (5 minutes max), and then use the bearing puller: it will catch the outside lip of the remaining outer ring. Pop the slide hammer a few times and out it comes in mere seconds.

No Dremeling!

First couple photos show the outer ring in "half extracted" state.








Last edited by Ed Scherer; 05-10-2011 at 12:00 AM.
Old 09-22-2010, 02:58 AM
  #65  
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Cool Powder coated parts are done

Got my stuff back from Industrial Coatings in Kansas City, KS today (well, yesterday, actually; it's after midnight now. ). Powder coater guy said that the prep was quite a bit of work; not too surprising. I provided him with a 12-page document describing recommended masking and plugging of all the parts, which he seemed to follow pretty closely.

Anyway, I'm happy with the results. Hope to have all this stuff back on the car within a week or two. I still have a bunch of stuff to do before I'm ready to put everything back together, and I'm not able to work on it as much as I'd like.

Powder was from TIGER Drylac. Base coat was Silver Hybrid 09/90190. Top coat was satin clear. I'll be adding colored lettering (the "red/black" kit) from Nicole (Hooked on Cars) on the cam covers and intake before I put them back on the car.

I probably could have done some prep work myself for slightly better results. You'll notice some pits here and there due to imperfections in the original castings. I knew that would happen and it's one of the reasons I went with a slightly textured finish.

Photos aren't that great. I just took them a couple of hours ago in the garage with some mixed color-temperature lighting; you might notice some of the strange color transitions on some of the photos.







A couple of 100% (1:1) crops from the previous photo (shows you what this finish looks like really close-up):










I had them leave the inside surfaces bare metal, with the intention of never having to worry about any finish flaking off and being ingested into the engine.






Last edited by Ed Scherer; 05-10-2011 at 12:00 AM.
Old 09-22-2010, 09:16 AM
  #66  
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Looks Great!!
Old 09-22-2010, 10:54 AM
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Well done. Very well done.
Can you share the 12 page document?
Old 09-22-2010, 11:04 AM
  #68  
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Loooks like a quality job. Make sure you wash out those parts. You don't want any residual blast media to be sucked in.
Old 09-22-2010, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by cold_beer839
Looks Great!!
Thanks!

Originally Posted by Landseer
Well done. Very well done.
Can you share the 12 page document?
Yes... I planned on doing that anyway. See "Powder coating intake/cam covers/etc. best practices"; I'll be updating post #1 in that thread and including a link to an updated version of that document within the next week when I have time.

Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
Loooks like a quality job. Make sure you wash out those parts. You don't want any residual blast media to be sucked in.
Andrew, I've been thinking about that... especially after re-reading "How can this be? No compression in all 8 cyls ?". (Summary for those who didn't follow that saga: engine destroyed by left over glass bead blast media left in intake ) Then there's the thread "Intake Refresh 1990 - I'm beginning to suspect", which in post #7 includes this notable quote: "Blackshark inadvertantly fed his engine what we believe to be a somewhat small amount of soda blasting media. To say the results were not pretty would be an understatement. The engine ran less than 30 minutes and completely destroyed all the brand new rod bearings, cylinder walls, rings, etc. Basically everything that moves within the engine is now toast. Please clean that intake until everything that comes out is totally clean."

Anyway, they used aluminum oxide media for blasting my parts. I haven't seen any trace of it anywhere, but I'm not sure exactly what I'm looking for (I'm guessing something that's about the size of a fine sand?) I've heard of media being embedded in the intake, too, which seems quite possible given how rough some of that surface is after blasting.

So... just to make damn sure any blast media residue (and any other loose stuff?) is out of there, is it good enough to just hose everything out? I'm not especially wanting to use a pressure washer, for fear of messing up the nice finish.

Last edited by Ed Scherer; 09-22-2010 at 02:11 PM.
Old 09-22-2010, 12:52 PM
  #70  
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I filled up my bathtub and then swashed it around. Then a whole bunch of dunk and drains. Worked for me.
Old 09-22-2010, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
I filled up my bathtub and then swashed it around. Then a whole bunch of dunk and drains. Worked for me.
Helen will be happy about that. Like the time I baked the brake rotors in the kitchen oven.

I'll get photos.

Thanks!
Old 09-22-2010, 01:09 PM
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Ed, those look fantastic. Well done.
Old 09-22-2010, 01:39 PM
  #73  
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I'm told dishwashers do a very good job...... not that I have ever done such a dastardly act :-)
Old 09-22-2010, 02:16 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Ed Scherer
Helen will be happy about that. Like the time I baked the brake rotors in the kitchen oven.

I'll get photos.

Thanks!
I guess I should have added that this was done at my rental down in Ohio = no spousal input.
Old 09-22-2010, 03:12 PM
  #75  
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Don't forget to remove the coating from the mating surfaces of the temp sensors.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft


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