blandis

Any hints to remove what is left? Is on my 88. Felt soft but turned. Was plugged with rust had it plugged.

SeanR

Easy out?

polecat702

Try an easyout, or a number drill large enough to bore out most of the metal without hitting the threads.
At that point you should be able to take a cape chisel and tap the remaining material away from the threads of the caliper.

underdog928

First, if you have rubber brake lines, put a c-clamp on it to stop the drip of brake fluid out of the bleeder. If not, just make sure the brake reservoir cap is on. That will slow the drips.

An easy-out should be simplest to try first, since the bleed screw has a center hole already in it.

Worst case, you might have to heat it up with a torch. If you need to do that, I would recommend taking it off the wheel and draining as much fluid out of the caliper as possible.

Good luck.

Bill Ball

The problem with EZouting it as is is that the center hole is not large enough and the small extractor will snap. BTDT and I was using a type of extractor that wasn't supposed to be easy to snap. EZouts should be renamed EZsnaps. Anyway, you might drill a fair amount of this out and use a larger extractor. Don't drill way deep and hit the bleeder seat. Look at another bleeder to get an idea of the depth. I used a square extractor. Easier to remove if it snaps. If a common screw-type EZout snaps off flush, you're rather screwed. Diamond bits are required to cut them out.

Also, I like the idea of using a chisel to turn it even better than extractors. It appears the broken bleeder is sitting proud of caliper face, so this looks doable.

blandis

Easy snap is correct. now broke off in the hole. Ezout is harder than a drill bit so good luck drilling it.
Put the wheel back on it and will look for a used caliper.

Hilton

Anyone with EZ-outs in their toolbox should go to the box now, pick them up, and throw them in the trash.

Then go buy a set of left-handed drill bits (they turn anti-clockwise when drilling).

EZ-outs apply outward force on the hole when they bite, making it harder to turn out whatever is stuck.

Ducman82

i broke one off in my pass cylinder head so i know what ya mean! totally worthless.

Mrmerlin

remove the caliper take to a welder have them weld a nut onto the remaining bleeder then unscrew the nut.
the welding process will heat the bleeder enough to expand the aluminum

tailpipe

I have had good luck using the tang of a file as an easy out its a little softer than the easy outs but hard and sharp enough to get a good bite BUT the best way imho is still the mig welder and a nut

fredfox

I agree, only heat will do the trick. As far as easy outs go, the spiral screw type are worthless, get the square ones.

rayfinkel

It looks as though you may have enough material to take a die drinder with a cut off wheel and cut a slot in what is left. Then using a heat gun heat it up and try a big flat head screwdriver in the slot to turn it out. I do this before I use an easyout if possible.
Cheers,
Allen T.
98 5speed hybrid

mark kibort

that aint coming out. Or, I would really be surprised if it did. mine broke on the holbert calipers , but fortunately, broke in a way , where no fluild excaped. so, i bleed mine via the other bleeder (both outsides are good) adn when I really want a good flush, I disconnect the line to that side of the caliper and turn the thing upside down and blead it via the connection pipes. then, the outer caliper can be bled to get any air out from that disconnection process.

blandis

Its out. Ran it up to the welder and he added a chunk of metal to it and it came out with vice grips.

Thanks for the idea and help. Now need to get it back together.

mark kibort

what a great idea! thats what I might try! great news. Never thougth of that.
I pictured an easy out just breaking off, as it took a lot of force to break the nipple in the first place with the 11mm wrench. so, the welding and the heat is the trick! cool. maybe I can save my calipers!

mk