Leak down test 86?
#2
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Find the TDC for #1 (crank at O/T and cams noches are at the timing mark) and then use the firing order to go to the next one. To check the cams, all you need to do is pul the intake tubes and look down the vent holes.
#3
Race Car
Thread Starter
I understand the TDC but I assume you will need to turn the motor over to have each cylinder in the top position. So If I do number one insert a rod into the next cylinder observe the rod go to the top will that work?
#4
Team Owner
yes it will .
otherwise simply turn the crank 90 degrees for each succeeding cylinder
8 X 90 = 720 or 2 full rotations
otherwise simply turn the crank 90 degrees for each succeeding cylinder
8 X 90 = 720 or 2 full rotations
#5
Race Car
Thread Starter
86 S/C
I have some inconsistent readings:
Did the leak down and all cylinders are with in specifications, when I did a compression test I found the following:
Cold engine dry:
1 180
2 170
3 175
4 175
5 185
6 180
7 90 Very low reading
80 190
Any feed back
I have some inconsistent readings:
Did the leak down and all cylinders are with in specifications, when I did a compression test I found the following:
Cold engine dry:
1 180
2 170
3 175
4 175
5 185
6 180
7 90 Very low reading
80 190
Any feed back
#7
Rennlist Member
That's weird .... if you get a bad compression reading you should also get a bad leakdown. What were the running symptoms that led you to do a leakdown?
It's possible in doing the leakdown test that you blew some carbon around and it's now lodged under a valve, which is giving you the mysterious low comp reading.
I'd say go through the sequence again but this time with a warm engine. I recall a recent thread where the same symptoms were as a result of some loose carbon ... which blew away in a sputter of black crap when it was started again.
It's possible in doing the leakdown test that you blew some carbon around and it's now lodged under a valve, which is giving you the mysterious low comp reading.
I'd say go through the sequence again but this time with a warm engine. I recall a recent thread where the same symptoms were as a result of some loose carbon ... which blew away in a sputter of black crap when it was started again.
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#9
Race Car
Thread Starter
Well the leak down tester is gone for now so doing it again would be for another date.
Interesting on the carbon under the valve, plugs look good, motor runs fine and no oil burning.
I am adding a AFPR and thought while everything is apart to test the cylinders.
Interesting on the carbon under the valve, plugs look good, motor runs fine and no oil burning.
I am adding a AFPR and thought while everything is apart to test the cylinders.
#10
Man of many SIGs
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
#11
Rennlist Member
If you're down that far "really" on compression you should have noticed it was running on seven ....BTDT. I was down to 110psi terminally on one cylinder, and the 'get up and go' just 'got up and went'.
Doesn't mean you couldn't have a real issue ... but you never know your luck. A look with an endoscope could give some info on that cylinder if you know someone who has one.
An Italian tune up could be in order.
Doesn't mean you couldn't have a real issue ... but you never know your luck. A look with an endoscope could give some info on that cylinder if you know someone who has one.
An Italian tune up could be in order.
#12
Race Car
Thread Starter
Shawn,
These readings were done this morning, Zeus said to get some GM top cylinder cleaner and soak it over night and see if the ring frees up. That is if the ring is stuck, I think I need to do another leak down test with the oil cap removed per Paul.
These readings were done this morning, Zeus said to get some GM top cylinder cleaner and soak it over night and see if the ring frees up. That is if the ring is stuck, I think I need to do another leak down test with the oil cap removed per Paul.