jwillman

I looked at the CV joints on the rear end of my 1979 as I knew I had a couple boots bad at least and while the fuel tank was out seemed like an ideal time to make access easier. I discovered a I have a mixed configuration.

The drivers side wheel and transaxle ends have 6 allen head retaining bolts. The passenger side has a 6 allen head bolt arrangement on the transaxle side but the passenger wheel end has no bolts visible at all.

Is this a newer style? What are the implications of the mixed arrangement? Do I need to switch back to a 1979 arrangement? How do I get that side out?

Thanks!

Ducman82

that is the newer style with only the bolts on the trans. my car was the same way. i hate having different parts that dont match. so i was able to get some from a friends donor car, to make them match. you have to get the splined stub and nut to bolt to the wheel bearing hub, and a 12 bolt axle. or you can go the other route and get the axle with the sealed end.

jwillman

Thanks Ducman,

What year did that style kick in?

Ducman82

ya know im not 100% sure, but i think 83

James Bailey

It makes no difference which you use......so unless the looks bother you there is nothing to fix.

jwillman

So on the welded CV joints they are sealed and don't require repacking? They still have a boot. I assume thos eventually fail and need replacing?

WSM does not really help much

Thanks

ammonman

The welded joints still require new boots and re-packing. The old grease is just harder to get cleaned out of the joint. The last one I did I turned my regulator on the air compressor down to just barely on, stuck the welded joint (sans boot and all the grease I could wipe out) in a bucket of mineral spirits, then secured the air hose into the hollow end of the axle shaft. After a bit of fiddling with the air pressure I had nice air agitation going down the inside of the shaft and coming out inside the joint. After 2-3 hours the mineral spirits and agitation had all the old grease broken up and dissolved. A final rinse with brake cleaner and the joint was ready for re-packing.

Mike

James Bailey

You can slide a new boot all the way over from the inner CV after you clean it as best as possible and grease. What you cannot do is take the newer outer CV apart. Just like most front wheel drive axles. But they are not designed to be serviced but that axle is several years younger than your other used axle....

jwillman

Thanks guys. I will give Roger a call and make sure I get the right boots as the WSM calls out a difference.

I appreciate the expertise!

Ducman82

CV boot are definitely a job you only want to do a few times.... ever....

jpitman2

Note that there are two types of boots - check which you have before ordering, or if you even have different ones. The early ones have a flat section where they clip to the steelplate that is bolted to the diff flange. the later ones have a a flat face for the clip, but the inside face is rounded, and engages in deep groove in the steel plate - think of the road sign for a hump or speed bump shape. I have posted a pic of the late section somewhere here last year. The change was made so the boots are better retained .
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k

Imo000

Maybe it's just me, but CV boot changes are a pretty simple thing to do. They are messy and can take some time but are a simple procedure. On the 928 it's even simpler as the axle ends do not go into the differential and the nut from the wheel side can be removed without taking the wheel off (only pop the centre cap). You do have to plan a little to make sure to put the outter boot on first, before the inner one is installed, but in reality, it's not more difficult than changing the brakes.