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If it's not one thing...

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Old 07-20-2010, 01:33 AM
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SQLGuy
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Default If it's not one thing...

Not really looking for advice, just wanted to vent.

Got home this evening and noticed a bit of oil dripping near where the oil filter is. Didn't really want to work on the car this evening, but it's about due for an oil change anyway so:

Jacked it up, pulled off the new undertray, and found that the front left mounting tab of the tray is already broken!

Next, noticed that the right side rack boot has a small slit in it (about 3/8"), and that rack seems to be leaking.

The oil leak, though, wasn't from the filter, it was from the plug that the oil pressure sender screws into. I replaced the sender a couple thousand miles ago. Of course, the sender by itself is basically impossible to remove, so that plug comes out of the block instead. The plug has a crushable aluminum sealing ring instead of an O-ring or other gasket. I didn't have a spare crush ring at the time, so I tried using an O-ring instead... that worked until today. Guess I'll see what I can do about tracking down a local supplier for the crush ring tomorrow...

The rack's going to have to wait a bit.
Old 07-20-2010, 02:29 AM
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bowerbird
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get a new aluminum crush washer if you can find one. Copper would probably also work. Rubber instead of metal = fail.
Old 07-20-2010, 07:55 AM
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Marine Blue
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Might need a new rack soon too. IMHO there are to failure modes for the rack, catastrophic where fluid sprays everywhere or a slow leak. The slow leak may be ok to drive but you're truly taking away from the driving experience because there is probably excessive play in the rack and the steering isn't as precise as it could be.

If you're changing the rack might as well do the motor mounts and pan gasket (if not already done).
Old 07-20-2010, 11:13 AM
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SQLGuy
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Originally Posted by Marine Blue
Might need a new rack soon too. IMHO there are to failure modes for the rack, catastrophic where fluid sprays everywhere or a slow leak. The slow leak may be ok to drive but you're truly taking away from the driving experience because there is probably excessive play in the rack and the steering isn't as precise as it could be.

If you're changing the rack might as well do the motor mounts and pan gasket (if not already done).
Motor mounts and pan gasket have already been done. I don't think you'd really save much time by doing them while the rack's out anyway... maybe 1/2 an hour to drop the tray and rack mountings... on the other hand, it would have been easier doing the motor mounts with the rack out entirely.

Just checked prices on racks, and I think I don't even have the right rack in there. The car came with a rebuilt rack (ZF) based on a 1979 casting mark core. Now I see that 928 International lists racks from 78-81, and 82-95....
Old 07-20-2010, 11:42 AM
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Well, one bit of good news: since the ear of the undertray was broken relatively cleanly, I think I can repair it with some Loctite Weld and a bent piece of mild steel.

Called the local import parts experts, and they had no match on the sealing ring - neither by part number nor by application. I'll try the dealer next.
Old 07-20-2010, 11:56 AM
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"Just checked prices on racks, and I think I don't even have the right rack in there. The car came with a rebuilt rack (ZF) based on a 1979 casting mark core. Now I see that 928 International lists racks from 78-81, and 82-95.... "

We list them the same way, but the rack for '91 and up is actually different, and is a low-effort rack. We can get the low-effort racks rebuilt correctly, but rarely have the correct cores to have one in stock.

You may have a problem using the older rack as an exchange core for a rebuilt. Be sure to ask, so that there is not an unpleasant surprise on the core exchange.
Old 07-23-2010, 04:14 PM
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Got the new seal ring in yesterday (thanks Roger!) and installed it along with a new filter and fresh oil.

The repair of the undertray worked out fine and the car is back on the road and not leaking.

Hopefully the rack will hang in there for a while....

Cheers,
Paul



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