car cuts off after car wash
#16
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Site Sponsor
A common problem with the 32-valve engines is that wash water or rain will run down the fender edge in the engine compartment, and the point where it drops off the edge is right at the coils and the jump start terminal/fourteen-terminal connector. Causes a lot of problems.
There should be short pieces of black clip-on edging on the fender edge just aft of the coils to help flow the water further down the edge before it falls off. There should also be a plastic over over the jump start post.
Jeannie can get you the cover, but you local auto parts store or body shop supply store should be able to furnish you a couple of feet of slip-on edge trim.
There should be short pieces of black clip-on edging on the fender edge just aft of the coils to help flow the water further down the edge before it falls off. There should also be a plastic over over the jump start post.
Jeannie can get you the cover, but you local auto parts store or body shop supply store should be able to furnish you a couple of feet of slip-on edge trim.
#17
i disconnected the two wires that connect to the coils and the distrubutor and swapped them. the same problem the red light stays on, all eight cylinder fires up at first then the red light comes on and half the engine goes out. wally p do you have a picture of what to check? on the passenger side i see a cover i took it off and theirs a cable that you can pull off to disconnect and theirs a bunch of pins, i wipped them all off and same problem.
#20
The only other thing I can think of is the connectors for the temp probs (in the 4 and 8 exhaust ports) got wet and haven't dried yet.
you should be able to see them on the back of the heads (from the underside of the car)...basically a thin metal prob in the underside of the exhaust header port..with heat shielded wire coming out of it and running to a small barrel connector at the back of the head on each side..
you should be able to see them on the back of the heads (from the underside of the car)...basically a thin metal prob in the underside of the exhaust header port..with heat shielded wire coming out of it and running to a small barrel connector at the back of the head on each side..
#21
tom, do you know the page on the workshop manual that has a picture? I don't think the car is safe to drive all the way to the lift ill probably have to jack it to reach it. So basically I will have to disconnect it and wipe it dry? can i let the car run on 4 cylinders until it evaporates the water?
#22
Volume 1A page 28-75. Pics and descriptions are there..
One more thing, check the ignition control units up front (drivers side).. Make sure no water is on those (they should be under a black cover ..pic is in Vol1A page 28-63).
cya
One more thing, check the ignition control units up front (drivers side).. Make sure no water is on those (they should be under a black cover ..pic is in Vol1A page 28-63).
cya
#23
Team Owner
open the ce panel cover and look for water leaking into the panel see if the floor is wet , if so disconnect the battery and remove all of the fuses and relays, put them in the sun to dry and put a fan in the car dry out the CE panel
#24
I opened the ce panel, removed all carpeting and padding their is no signs of moisture. I am looking at the ignition circuit tempature sensor , removing and installing instructions out of the manual , i have a few questions before i proceed.
1)
Remove air-filter housing complete. Unclip
the temperature sensor connector on the cylinder
head and separate.
this is asking me to go in the engine bay from under the hood and removing the box that contains the air filter? if that is correct where exactly do I unclip this sensor thats on the cylinder head? Does someone by any chance have a picture the can circle a general area of where its at?
2. Remove rear engine guard. Remove temperature
sensor with standard tool, e.g. Hazet
4550-l.
where is the rear engine guard and how do I access it?
1)
Remove air-filter housing complete. Unclip
the temperature sensor connector on the cylinder
head and separate.
this is asking me to go in the engine bay from under the hood and removing the box that contains the air filter? if that is correct where exactly do I unclip this sensor thats on the cylinder head? Does someone by any chance have a picture the can circle a general area of where its at?
2. Remove rear engine guard. Remove temperature
sensor with standard tool, e.g. Hazet
4550-l.
where is the rear engine guard and how do I access it?
#25
1), yes from the top, and it's the only electrical connector there..can't really miss it..
2) This sounds like it's from the underside. there should be two bottom belly pans under the engine..remove the rear metal one...4 bolts I think...
2) This sounds like it's from the underside. there should be two bottom belly pans under the engine..remove the rear metal one...4 bolts I think...
#26
Check out Theo's page for some more info including tips from Wally P...
http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/Technic...4/MyTip460.htm
And if you determine everything is in order, you can pick up this relay ...It bypasses the monitoring circuit. You do need to be sure everything else is working though as if not..fuel will continue to flow into the cats..and a fire will result..
https://www.928gt.com/ps-25846-243-i...lay-89-95.aspx
http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/Technic...4/MyTip460.htm
And if you determine everything is in order, you can pick up this relay ...It bypasses the monitoring circuit. You do need to be sure everything else is working though as if not..fuel will continue to flow into the cats..and a fire will result..
https://www.928gt.com/ps-25846-243-i...lay-89-95.aspx
#27
TOM, that is a cool product. Can I buy it and leave it in all the time "I don't want to be stranded in a car wash again" without having any negative side effects? if it has negative/harmful effects what could it be?
thanks, dan
thanks, dan
#28
i don't believe their is a problem with fuel going into my cats. I mean the spark plug wires and spark plugs, caps all have bee replaced. the fuel pumps and fuel filter have been replaced. I think its just a damaged temp sensor 'will check after I do some more research' this bypass relay seems like a good product.
#29
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Site Sponsor
While we sell the bypass relay, I prefer to have the Ignition Monitoring System working. If you lose one ignition system at speed on a level road, you might not notice until the carpets start burning. At low speeds, in traffic, and on hills, you should really notice that something is amiss.
But all too many people think, "Well, it's not running well, but it is running, and I think that I can make it home..."
But all too many people think, "Well, it's not running well, but it is running, and I think that I can make it home..."