Rear Wheel bearing replacement
06-12-2010, 08:15 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Rear Wheel bearing replacement
Any tricks or write ups on rear wheel bearing replacement? Sounds like I have a noisy left rear. I have been hearing something. Thought it was a brake noise. Changed from stock wheels to turbo twist and now I can hear it more. Maybe the stock wheels muffled it more with that big flat pancake surface. THe tires and the wheels are not hitting anything. I can jack it up and take everything off and it is still there.
Thanks
Thanks
06-12-2010, 08:37 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
I would highly recommend buying, borrowing, or renting the tool so that this can be done on the car.
When you have to take the hubs off the car to do the bearing replacement, it can be difficult to get all the spacers/shims (I'm talking about the spacers and shims for the press here) properly aligned so that you don't spread the bearing. Also, put the bearings in the freezer and the carriers in the oven before assembly.
Good luck.
When you have to take the hubs off the car to do the bearing replacement, it can be difficult to get all the spacers/shims (I'm talking about the spacers and shims for the press here) properly aligned so that you don't spread the bearing. Also, put the bearings in the freezer and the carriers in the oven before assembly.
Good luck.
06-12-2010, 08:43 PM
#4
Team Owner
if your crafty and can get your hands on
a heavy duty dent puller slide hammer with a fitting that will fit over 2 or 3 of the wheel studs and you have
a good Mapp gas torch
An air hammer like what they use to cut off old mufflers
and freezer
you can replace the bearings in the hub carrier on the car.
only caveat is to not forget to fit the E brake backing plate, otheriwse the bearing will be damaged by having to remove the outer flange
a heavy duty dent puller slide hammer with a fitting that will fit over 2 or 3 of the wheel studs and you have
a good Mapp gas torch
An air hammer like what they use to cut off old mufflers
and freezer
you can replace the bearings in the hub carrier on the car.
only caveat is to not forget to fit the E brake backing plate, otheriwse the bearing will be damaged by having to remove the outer flange
06-12-2010, 09:07 PM
#5
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Our west-coast group uses a bearing tool made by Sir Tools, which allows for removeal and replacement of the bearings without removing the hub carrier. You can buy parts and pieces to make the critical bits if you have to, and Harbor Freight sells a bargain tool that does almost but not all of the work; you still have to use a large slide hammer for the extraction.
You might want to contact Dean Fuller on this list. He has the full kit and may rent it to you for a reasonable fee plus shipping. Mine is booked through July.
I also suggest that you do both sides at the same time. Odds are they have been in there about the same amount of time, and have seen similar miles and service. Look carefully at half-shaft boots too, since the axles will be out on the floor anyway. You'll have rotors and rear calipers off, so if you have brakes in your near future now will be a handy time.
Your 'other' tools list includes:
-- A BIG breaker bar and socket, and a torque wrench that goes to 326 lbs/ft for the axle nuts. This is well into 3/4" drive stuff that you can usually rent if you don't have it hanging around.
-- The snap-ring that holds the bearing into the carrier is big and can be stubborn, so something bigger than the watch-makers pliers will be needed. It's something north of three inches of internal retaining ring.
-- I used a MAPP gas torch and a sacrificial cold chisel to remove inner races from the drive hubs clamped in my bench vise. Dave A shared a concept drawing showing a bearing splitter fit-up if you have one of those.
-- The retaining screws that hold the brake rotor on are most easily removed using a small impact screwdriver. This is the one that you bang on with a hammer, not a power tool.
You might want to contact Dean Fuller on this list. He has the full kit and may rent it to you for a reasonable fee plus shipping. Mine is booked through July.
I also suggest that you do both sides at the same time. Odds are they have been in there about the same amount of time, and have seen similar miles and service. Look carefully at half-shaft boots too, since the axles will be out on the floor anyway. You'll have rotors and rear calipers off, so if you have brakes in your near future now will be a handy time.
Your 'other' tools list includes:
-- A BIG breaker bar and socket, and a torque wrench that goes to 326 lbs/ft for the axle nuts. This is well into 3/4" drive stuff that you can usually rent if you don't have it hanging around.
-- The snap-ring that holds the bearing into the carrier is big and can be stubborn, so something bigger than the watch-makers pliers will be needed. It's something north of three inches of internal retaining ring.
-- I used a MAPP gas torch and a sacrificial cold chisel to remove inner races from the drive hubs clamped in my bench vise. Dave A shared a concept drawing showing a bearing splitter fit-up if you have one of those.
-- The retaining screws that hold the brake rotor on are most easily removed using a small impact screwdriver. This is the one that you bang on with a hammer, not a power tool.
