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-   -   anti-seize on spark plug threads (https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/566942-anti-seize-on-spark-plug-threads.html)

Imo000 05-09-2010 03:31 PM

In 20 years of workign on cars I NEVER used anti size on the plugs and NEVER had a problem. If they were supposed to have anti sieze on it, don't you think they would come with it already applied (like the O2 sensors do)?
Also, you don't have to pull the head if the plug treads get damaged.

Mrmerlin 05-09-2010 04:02 PM

can you get away with out the antiseize on the threads, maybe.
Does the plug come out of the hole better with antiseize, usually it does


Does antiseize work to prevent the threads on the lug bolts from getting damaged, yes it does.
If your not interested in using the antiseize on any threads have at it.

I will always check the plug gap and then put a smear of antiseize on the plug threads, I have not ever had any thread related failures using this process, i find that the plugs do unscrew easier than uncoated plugs, I believe that the antiseize also assist in preventing the combustion products from filling in the rear sides of the plug threads , look at the next set of plugs that come out , if they are all coated with dark brown deposits up to the sealing ring this is whats happening, and i am not talking about oil filling the threads

dr bob 05-10-2010 12:51 AM

I've used plain old silver anti-sieze on plug threads since just afrter I seized a plug and pulled the threads out in an early 911 motor. Just on the threads starting one or two from the end, nowhere near the tips.

On the lug bolts, the WSM is specific about using it on the tapered/cone part to prevent galling between the cone on the nut and the cupped surface in the wheel. I don't put it on the threads generally.

RKD in OKC 05-10-2010 01:21 AM

Aren't spark plugs and wheel studs steel, and the block and lug nuts aluminum?

I use Permatex 133A Anti-Seize Lubricant. Says on the back it is specifically for steel to aluminum. Comes in a lasts for-freaking-ever 1oz tube that is very very messy and gets all over everything. Just think about squeezing the tube to get enough for anything or you will get enough for everything in the garage.

dr bob 05-10-2010 01:48 AM


Originally Posted by RKD in OKC (Post 7556074)
Aren't spark plugs and wheel studs steel, and the block and lug nuts aluminum?

I use Permatex 133A Anti-Seize Lubricant. Says on the back it is specifically for steel to aluminum. Comes in a lasts for-freaking-ever 1oz tube that is very very messy and gets all over everything. Just think about squeezing the tube to get enough for anything or you will get enough for everything in the garage.

Dawn. Joy. These are common things that will help you get Never-Sieze off your hands.

RKD in OKC 05-10-2010 02:01 AM


Originally Posted by dr bob (Post 7556114)
Dawn. Joy. These are common things that will help you get Never-Sieze off your hands.

And the wrenches, car, tool box, bench, floor, door handles, faucet, and anything else I get close too between trying to apply the stuff and washing up. :)

stolarzj 05-10-2010 09:16 AM


Originally Posted by circlex (Post 7556224)
I think I have traced the origin of this: It came from the book "How to Rebuild and Modify Porsche 911 Engines 1966-1989" By Wayne R. Dempsey. The quote that you cited has been replicated all over the internet, with the exact verbiage. The focus of the book was early 911 engines. I wonder if anyone has access to the original Technical Bulletin, and what the date of the Bulletin was?

The book was actually for motors up to 1989. The 911 heads are aluminum like ours, so Porsches theory should also apply to 928's.

hacker-pschorr 05-10-2010 10:37 AM


Originally Posted by stolarzj (Post 7556392)
The book was actually for motors up to 1989. The 911 heads are aluminum like ours, so Porsches theory should also apply to 928's.

Tell you what, I'll keep installing my plugs with a dab of anti-sieze and you keep putting them in dry.

That was easy :p

I'm also ignoring the bullitan that warns of instaling larger wheels on my car.

SeanR 05-10-2010 10:43 AM

30 years of helping my dad or doing it myself, have always used silver anti-seize. Getting ones out that didn't have it on there can be a royal pain in the arse.

blown 87 05-10-2010 11:03 AM


Originally Posted by SeanR (Post 7556586)
30 years of helping my dad or doing it myself, have always used silver anti-seize. Getting ones out that didn't have it on there can be a royal pain in the arse.

Some weeks I make a good bit of money getting them out that were put in with no anti seize.

Some of the three valve fords are really bad about it.

dr bob 05-10-2010 11:10 AM

Agonizing decisions... Should I pull the motor and the head to fixed the bunged plug threads, or try to tap for an insert with a greased tap, hoping that no chips fall into the chamber. Or the easy way out: Put a little smear of anti-sieze on the plug threads on installation, and re-use the original threads in the head.

Tough choices.

Mike Simard 05-10-2010 11:16 AM

The problem isn't what it was 30 years ago.

When lead was in gas it tended to cause spark plug threads to stick. I remember screwed up spark plug threads being common in the seventies on small engines I played with.
I used to remove spark plugs with my tongue poking out so as to ensure great care and patience. You could carefully loosen it and slowly unscrew it and damn if it didn't screw up anyway.

I haven't seen a stripped spark plug since 1979 or so but there's no way I would install one dry. I also don't believe there's any treatment done to spark plug threads. They have changed in recent years and gotten away from irridated finishes but that because of envirophobia.

blown 87 05-10-2010 11:20 AM


Originally Posted by Mike Simard (Post 7556691)
The problem isn't what it was 30 years ago.

When lead was in gas it tended to cause spark plug threads to stick. I remember screwed up spark plug threads being common in the seventies on small engines I played with.
I used to remove spark plugs with my tongue poking out so as to ensure great care and patience. You could carefully loosen it and slowly unscrew it and damn if it didn't screw up anyway.

I haven't seen a stripped spark plug since 1979 or so but there's no way I would install one dry. I also don't believe there's any treatment done to spark plug threads. They have changed in recent years and gotten away from irridated finishes but that because of envirophobia.

We have seen more in the last four years than I have ever seen before.
Again, mostly on Fords and some Asian cars.

dr bob 05-10-2010 01:51 PM

Add that there were certain plugs that had shallower threads than the imported heads for a long time. It was a cardinal sin to put Champion plugs in 356 or 911 heads. Almost guaranteed a thread pull.

hacker-pschorr 05-10-2010 02:06 PM


Originally Posted by dr bob (Post 7557178)
It was a cardinal sin to put Champion plugs in 356 or 911 heads. Almost guaranteed a thread pull.

Yet they were the plug of choice for the 550 spyder.......:icon107:


http://www.swapsellit.com/JamesDean-ChampionPlug.JPG


:D


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