Cleaning Grounds
#47
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Gatineau, Québec, Canada
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Ground Point Removal Question
I tried last summer to remove this ground point without success.
I can't get the tool (socket or key) in there. Not enough space.
Do I need a special tool or to remove the top oil cooler line to get to this one?
I want to do all the one I didn't touch yet next spring.
Thanks in advance.
I can't get the tool (socket or key) in there. Not enough space.
Do I need a special tool or to remove the top oil cooler line to get to this one?
I want to do all the one I didn't touch yet next spring.
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Bertrand Daoust; 01-25-2015 at 06:24 PM.
#48
Rennlist Member
I tried last summer to remove this ground point without success.
I can't get the tool (socket or key) in there. Not enough space.
Do I need a special tool or to remove the top oil cooler line to get to this one?
I want to do all the one I didn't touch yet next spring.
Thanks in advance.
I can't get the tool (socket or key) in there. Not enough space.
Do I need a special tool or to remove the top oil cooler line to get to this one?
I want to do all the one I didn't touch yet next spring.
Thanks in advance.
A flex head ratcheting wrench might work:
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-pc-me...set-60592.html
Or perhaps a deep-well type wrench
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-profe...p-00944350000P
Removing the rubber bumper above the ground point might be helpful, as well.
will
#50
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Take a look at how that cooler is mounted. IIRC there are a few 6mm bolts holding it suspended there, with the rubber 'seal' across the top. Remove the bolts, hold the seal so it doens't fall, then move the cooler slightly for easier access.
I have a ball-end 1/4"-drive 'screwdriver' with a regular 1/4"-drive at the back ind of the handle. With a standard socket, no issues with access to that bolt with the cooler in place. IIRC there's easy room for a 1/4"-drive 10mm universal socket on the end of a long extension passed between the hoses. Don't be afraid to use a long extension, no need to try and crowd everything in that constricted area.
I have a ball-end 1/4"-drive 'screwdriver' with a regular 1/4"-drive at the back ind of the handle. With a standard socket, no issues with access to that bolt with the cooler in place. IIRC there's easy room for a 1/4"-drive 10mm universal socket on the end of a long extension passed between the hoses. Don't be afraid to use a long extension, no need to try and crowd everything in that constricted area.
#51
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I'll take a look again and will try with my 1/4" ratchet and a good extension.
Quite sure I tried that but will again for sure.
If this doesn't work, I'll try to move the cooler like you said.
Thank you Bob.
Very appreciated.
Quite sure I tried that but will again for sure.
If this doesn't work, I'll try to move the cooler like you said.
Thank you Bob.
Very appreciated.
#52
Rennlist Member
There is a great little tool that I use to clean electrical connections with. It is made for spot sanding paint chips. It is called 'PrepPen' and is made/distributed? by Pro Motorcar Products. Once you have one of these you will wish you had one years ago. It's like a fat pen that has 20,00 glass fibers in it that you use to sand with. No affiliation...
#53
Nordschleife Master
There is a great little tool that I use to clean electrical connections with. It is made for spot sanding paint chips. It is called 'PrepPen' and is made/distributed? by Pro Motorcar Products. Once you have one of these you will wish you had one years ago. It's like a fat pen that has 20,00 glass fibers in it that you use to sand with. No affiliation...
Harbor Freight has a set of wobble extensions that go on sale/coupon around $12, very handy to have.
#54
Rennlist Member
That is true danglerb. They do continually break off as you use them. They are small and sharp and can make a little mess. They can irritate your skin if your not careful.
#55
Rennlist Member
I have a 1990 GT. In the attached photos you can see the two locations of those ground points. In the photo, I have removed the air filter housing as well as the MAF. The two gound points are on top of the bell housing, on the bolts that hold the throttle cable pully bracket to the bell housing.
#56
Rennlist Member
In order to get to MP VIII and IX on my '89, do I need to remove the fuel pressure regulators and hard line hoses to get to them? If so, I fear may do more damage to the car getting to them to clean them than anything.
#57
Racer
Wow, I am dusting off my memories at this point
I remember having to do them all twice, because initially I cleaned them and then used a Dielectric grease (thinking that was an conductivity enhancer). Once I realized that it is more of an insulator I had to go back in to clean the again.
I did remove the fuel pressure regulator so that I could check the Crank Position Sensor. If you are going to all this effort, it may be worth proactively replacing that sensor. If it goes out the car will be inoperable. I found that rodents had chewed on the wire insulation. It was not an expensive part, but a HUGE pain in the A$$ to get to.
Hope that help!
- Matt
I remember having to do them all twice, because initially I cleaned them and then used a Dielectric grease (thinking that was an conductivity enhancer). Once I realized that it is more of an insulator I had to go back in to clean the again.
I did remove the fuel pressure regulator so that I could check the Crank Position Sensor. If you are going to all this effort, it may be worth proactively replacing that sensor. If it goes out the car will be inoperable. I found that rodents had chewed on the wire insulation. It was not an expensive part, but a HUGE pain in the A$$ to get to.
Hope that help!
- Matt
#58
Rennlist Member
Wow, I am dusting off my memories at this point
I remember having to do them all twice, because initially I cleaned them and then used a Dielectric grease (thinking that was an conductivity enhancer). Once I realized that it is more of an insulator I had to go back in to clean the again.
I did remove the fuel pressure regulator so that I could check the Crank Position Sensor. If you are going to all this effort, it may be worth proactively replacing that sensor. If it goes out the car will be inoperable. I found that rodents had chewed on the wire insulation. It was not an expensive part, but a HUGE pain in the A$$ to get to.
Hope that help!
- Matt
I remember having to do them all twice, because initially I cleaned them and then used a Dielectric grease (thinking that was an conductivity enhancer). Once I realized that it is more of an insulator I had to go back in to clean the again.
I did remove the fuel pressure regulator so that I could check the Crank Position Sensor. If you are going to all this effort, it may be worth proactively replacing that sensor. If it goes out the car will be inoperable. I found that rodents had chewed on the wire insulation. It was not an expensive part, but a HUGE pain in the A$$ to get to.
Hope that help!
- Matt
Great suggestion, and would do that...if Stan hadn’t done the same about 2 years ago on mine. Those GPs seem best left for when you are experiencing EZK/LHK issues, or while you are doing a fuel line or intake refresh.
Last edited by jwbeck17; 09-03-2018 at 11:57 PM.
#59
..
Last edited by Shark2626; 08-01-2019 at 10:28 AM.
#60
Rennlist Member
The ground is probably under the throttle pulley bracket, it was on my 87. When I pulled the bracket and cleaned the grounds, I replaced the bolts with a couple of studs, it was much easier to mount everything.